Tasting Georgia: A Food and Wine Journey in the Caucasus

acknowledgements p. 15
preface p. 17
georgia: a short history p. mm ˜˜ 20
an introduction to georgian wine p. 23
How to make wine in qvevri p. 23
The history of wine in Georgia p. 25
The Tamada’s Tale p. 29
an introduction to georgian food p. 30
About the supra p. 30
religion, song and dance and the georgian feast
by john h. wurdeman v p. 34
the elements of georgian cuisine: ingredients p. 36
how to cook georgian food p. 46
About the recipes pp. 46-47
How the Georgians Cook p. 48
khachapuri and filled breads p. 49
The Master Recipes pp. 51-53
khinkali p. 54
The Master Recipe p. 55
1 tbilisi p. 58
Tbilisi: a brief history p. 62 Where to Eat, Drink, Shop and
Stay p. 63 Three women chefs p. 72
Mulberry and goat cheese salad p. 74 Stuffed tomatoes p. 76
Beef and chickpea stew p. 78 Stuffed vine leaves p. 80
Chicken with pomegranate juice p. 82 Pumpkin with walnuts p. 84
Mussels chakapuli p. 86
2 the centre: mtskheta and the kartlis p. 88
Mtskheta p. 91 Jighaura p. 95 Saguramo p. 95 Chardakhi p. 96
Mukhrani p. 106 Gori p. 107 Patara Ateni p. 107 Didi
Ateni p. 108 Ateni Sioni p. 109 Uplistsikhe p. 109 Garikula p. 112
Kiketi p. 113 Tamarisi p. 116 Marneuli p. 116
Shavnabada p. 116 Bolnisi p. 119 Dmanisi p. 119
Walnut paste p. 100 Aubergine / eggplant rolls p. 102
Aubergine / eggplant family style p. 104
3 east to kakheti p. 120
Kakheti and its wines p. 123 Kakheti food and history p. 125
Tusheti p. 126 Zemo Alvani p. 129 Alaverdi p. 133
Laliskuri p. 136 Artana p. 142 Ikalto p. 145 Vardisubani p. 145
Shuamta p. 147 Telavi p. 151 Shalauri p. 152 Kisiskhevi p. 154
Gremi p. 155 Sabue p. 155 Nekresi p. 157 Lagodekhi p. 157
Bakurtsikhe p. 158 Sighnaghi p. 159 Bodbe p. 179
Mirzaani p. 179 Khornabuji p. 180 Bodbiskhevi p. 180 Kvemo
Magharo p. 181 Manavi p. 184 Davit-Gareja p. 193
Tushetian pancakes p. 138 Tushetian potato and cheese
khinkali p. 140 Lamb chakapuli p. 148 aubergine / eggplant
ajapsandali p. 170 Herbed oyster mushrooms p. 172
Wilted purslane salad p. 174 Stewed sour cherries p. 176
Tarragon and egg pie p. 186 Green beans with eggs p. 188
Chilled yogurt soup p. 190
4 south-west to samtskhe-javakheti p. 194
Phoka p. 197 Vardzia p. 200 Chachkari p. 206 Khizabavra
Valley p. 208 Khertvisi p. 211 Nijgori p. 212 Khizabavra p. 226
Saro p. 228 Akhaltsikhe p. 228 Borjomi p. 231 Akhaldaba p. 231
Bakuriani p. 231
Beef and tomato stew p. 202 Grilled meatballs p. 204 Meskhetian
khachapuri p. 218 Small potato khinkali dumplings p. 220 Noodle
and yogurt soup p. 222 Stewed fruits and onions p. 224
5 west to imereti p. 232
Food and Wine p. 235 Maqatubani p. 239 Kldeeti p. 248
Zestaponi p. 249 Kvaliti p. 249 Terjola p. 258
Nakhshirghele p. 262 Dimi p. 272 Baghdati p. 272 Kutaisi p. 273
Natural and Archælogical sites in Imereti p. 275 Kumistavi p. 275
Sataplia p. 275 Tskaltubo p. 275 Zeda Gordi p. 275
Okatse p. 275 Chiatura p. 275 Sormoni p. 276 Gelati p. 276
Vani p. 276 Persati p. 276
Duck with blackberry sauce p. 244 Leeks with walnut paste p. 246
Leafy greens with walnut paste p. 256 Green beans with walnut
paste p. 256 Lobio: beans with walnuts and spices p. 266 Tkemali:
sour plum sauce p. 268 Beets with sour plum sauce p. 268 Bazhe:
spiced walnut paste p. 270 Beets with spiced walnut paste p. 270
6 the black sea coast: guria and adjara p. 278
About Guria p. 282 Ozurgeti p. 283 Bakhmaro p. 283
Ureki p. 283 Shekvetili p. 283 Kolkheti p. 283 Sakvavistke p. 283
Dablatsikhe p. 283 Dvabzu p. 294 The Gurian house p. 295
About Adjara p. 298 Tsikhisdziri p. 298 Kobuleti p. 298
Batumi p. 310 Goderdzi p. 311 About the Black Sea p. 312
Eating in Batumi p. 313 Gonio-Apsaros p. 314 Sarpi p. 314
Kvashta p. 314 Acharistskali p. 315
Gurian Christmas khachapuri p. 288 ‘Backcombed’ aubergines /
eggplant p. 290 Hazelnut paste p. 292 Chirbuli: eggs with onions
and tomatoes p. 300 Kharcho: chicken and walnut stew p. 302
Achma: baked layered pasta p. 304 Fish baked with walnuts p. 308
Adjarian khachapuri p. 316
7 west to samegrelo p. 318
Megrelian food p. 322 The Megrelian house p. 322
To see in Samegrelo p. 324 Mukhuri p. 324 Martvili p. 324
Didi Chkoni p. 325 Salkhino p. 325 Tsachkhuri p. 327
Targameuli p. 328 Nosiri p. 340 Senaki p. 340 Poti p. 340
Anaklia p. 340 Zugdidi p. 341
Spicy green and red pepper ajika p. 334 Megrelian khachapuri p. 336
Cold chicken satsivi with spiced walnut sauce p. 338 Spicy
ribs p. 344 Tchvishtari: cheesy cornbread p. 346 Elarji: cornmeal
with cheese p. 348 Chicken with bazhe nut sauce p. 350
8 north-west to svaneti p. 352
On Svanetian food p. 355 Svaneti: a short history p. 356
Becho Valley p. 360 Ushkhvanari p. 360 Ushba p. 370
Mestia p. 371 Ski slopes and glaciers p. 372 Hatsvali p. 372
Tetnuldi p. 372 Ushguli p. 373 Chvibiani p. 374
Kubdari: spiced meat bread p. 364 Cooked and raw salad p. 366
Braised meatballs p. 368 Mushrooms and red peppers p. 376
9 west and north to racha-lechkhumi p. 378
Khvanchkara p. 382 Grape varieties of the region p. 382
Ambrolauri p. 382,386 Nikortsminda p. 384 Patara Chorjo p. 387
Dzirageuli p. 394 Oni p. 400
Cooked ajika p. 392 Beet-green bread p. 396 Beans stewed with
herbs p. 398 Lobiani: bean-filled bread p. 402 Grilled chicken with
garlic sauce p. 404
10 north to kazbegi and upper mtskheta mtianeti p. 406
Food p. 410 Tsitelsopeli p. 410 Ananuri p. 410
Khevsureti p. 411 Shatili p. 411 Mutso p. 411 Gudauri p. 414
Stepantsminda p. 414 Kazbegi p. 414 Gergeti p. 420
Arsha p. 421
Meat-filled khinkali dumplings p. 416 Cheese and potato
bread p. 418
bibliography and travel information p. 423
recipe index and meal planner p. 426
index p. 429