Functional Textiles and Clothing -

Functional Textiles and Clothing (eBook)

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2019 | 1st ed. 2019
XI, 463 Seiten
Springer Singapore (Verlag)
978-981-13-7721-1 (ISBN)
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149,79 inkl. MwSt
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This volume contains select papers presented during the Functional Textiles and Clothing Conference 2018. The book covers the recent scientific developments, cutting edge technologies, innovations, trends, challenges and opportunities in the field of functional and smart textiles and clothing. The contents of this volume will be of interest to researchers, professional engineers, entrepreneurs, and market stakeholders interested in functional textiles and clothing.

?Abhijit Majumdar is an Associate Professor in the Department of Textile Technology, Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi. He has done his M. Tech in Textile Engineering and MBA in Technology Management from IIT Delhi, and his PhD in Production & Operations Management from Jadavpur University. His research interests include fabric manufacturing technologies, protective textiles, soft computing based modeling and optimization and operations management and sustainable supply chain management. He has edited 2 books, and authored 2 books, 6 book chapters and 82 research articles in refereed journals. 

Deepti Gupta is a Professor in the Department of Textile Technology, IIT Delhi. She has more than 30 years research experience and her research interests include textile chemistry product design and development, antimicrobial finishing, anthropometrics and garment sizing, design and engineering of functional clothing. She is a member of various governmental, professional and industrial committees and  has edited 4 books, and authored 1 book, 5 chapters and 87 research articles in refereed journals. 

Sanjay Gupta is the Director General of the World University of Design, Sonepat, India,  and was previously the Dean of National Institute of Fashion Technology and the Founding Dean of the School of Design at GD Goenka University.  He has done his PhD in textile technology from IIT Delhi. He was a UNDP fellow to Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), New York and a Visiting Professor at École Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles (ENSAIT), France. He was involved in the key initiative of bringing fashion schools worldwide under the umbrella of the International Foundation of Fashion Technology Institutes (IFFTI). He has over 100 publications and , over 30 presentations in national/ international conferences and seminars. He has also been a member of committees & bodies at national / international level like ASSOCHAM, CII, IFFTI, BIS, NISTI besides being on the editorial boards of scientific journals. 

This volume contains select papers presented during the Functional Textiles and Clothing Conference 2018. The book covers the recent scientific developments, cutting edge technologies, innovations, trends, challenges and opportunities in the field of functional and smart textiles and clothing. The contents of this volume will be of interest to researchers, professional engineers, entrepreneurs, and market stakeholders interested in functional textiles and clothing.

Preface 5
Contents 7
About the Editors 11
Protective Textiles 12
Thermal Resistance of Leather and Membranes for Summer Desert Military Footwear Under Different Climate Conditions 13
1 Introduction 14
2 Materials and Methods 14
2.1 Materials 14
2.2 Method of Thermal Resistance Measurement Under Steady-State Conditions 15
3 Results and Discussion 16
4 Conclusion 18
References 19
Woven Military Fabrics from the Aspect of the Microbial Barrier Permeability 20
1 Introduction 20
2 Materials and Methods 22
3 Experimental and Results 23
4 Conclusion 27
References 27
Development of Thermal Insulative Nonwoven Fabric Through Advance Material Application 29
1 Introduction 30
2 Materials and Method 31
2.1 Material 31
2.2 Methodology 32
2.3 Methods of Characterisation 33
3 Result and Discussion 34
3.1 Effect of Aerogel on Thickness of Nonwoven Fabric 35
3.2 Effect of Aerogel on Thermal Conductivity of Nonwoven Fabrics 35
3.3 Effect of Aerogel on Pore Size and Air Permeability 36
3.4 Effect of Aerogel on Specific Thermal Resistivity of Nonwoven Fabric 39
3.5 SEM Analysis 39
3.6 FTIR Analysis 41
4 Conclusion 42
References 42
Investigation on Sound Absorption Characteristics of Nonwoven Coir Mats 44
1 Introduction 44
2 Materials and Methods 46
2.1 Fabrication of Nonwoven Coir Mats 46
2.2 Sound Absorption Characterization 47
3 Results and Discussion 48
3.1 Sound Absorption Characteristics of Porous Absorber 48
3.2 Sound Absorption Characteristics of Porous Absorber with MPP+Air Configuration 49
4 Conclusion 51
References 52
Medical Textiles 53
Functionalized Silk for Surgical Suture Applications 54
1 Introduction 54
2 Materials and Methods 56
2.1 Degumming 57
2.2 Manufacture of Braided Silk Filaments 57
2.3 Preparation of Chitosan Solution 57
2.4 Extraction of Aloe Vera, Curcumin, and Finishing Treatment 57
2.5 Friction Measurement 57
2.6 Tenacity and Knot Strength Measurement 58
2.7 Scanning Electron Microscope 58
2.8 Evaluation of Antibacterial Activity 58
2.9 Box–Behnken Design 58
3 Results and Discussion 59
3.1 Regression and Statistical Analysis 59
3.2 Surface Plots: 2D Contour Plots 59
3.3 Optimization of the Model for the Responses 66
3.4 Antibacterial Activity 67
4 Conclusion 69
References 69
Effect of Domestic Laundering on Removal of Bacterial Contamination from Nurses’ White Coats 71
1 Introduction 72
2 Methodology 73
2.1 Sampling Method 73
2.2 Determination of Bacterial Counts 74
3 Results 75
3.1 BHI Broth 75
4 Discussion 75
5 Conclusion 76
References 77
Smart Textiles 78
Hybrid Cover Yarn’s Element Orientation and Its Impacts on Mechanical/Tensile Behavior of Conductive Yarns and Fabrics 79
1 Introduction 80
2 Experimental Methods 80
2.1 Materials 80
2.2 Sample Preparation and Testing 81
3 Results and Discussion 82
3.1 Tensile Testing of Yarns 82
3.2 Mechanical Properties of Fabrics 85
4 Conclusion 90
References 91
Facile Metallization Technique of Textiles for Electronic Textile Applications 93
1 Introduction 94
2 Experimental Process 95
3 Result and Discussion 95
3.1 Optimum Concentration 95
3.2 Comparison Among Woven and Knitted Fabric 97
3.3 Bending Test 97
3.4 LED Demonstration 98
3.5 Optical Image Analysis 98
4 Conclusion 100
References 100
Development of Smart Textiles for Medical Care 102
1 Introduction 102
2 Experimental 103
2.1 Development of Conductive Fabric 103
2.2 Preparation of Garment with Incorporation of HeartBeat Sensor, Temperature Sensor and GPS 104
3 Results and Discussion 106
References 106
Photoluminescent Printed Fabrics: An Innovative Solution to Natural Nightlight 108
1 Introduction 108
2 Experimental Details 109
2.1 Materials 109
2.2 Printing with PL Pigments 110
2.3 Evaluation of Intensity of Luminosity of PL Blue Pigment Using Illuminometer 110
2.4 Time-Resolved Photoluminescence (TR-PL) Spectral Studies 111
2.5 Visual Perception Study 111
3 Research Findings 112
3.1 Effect of Pigment Concentration on the Luminosity of PL Pigment Printed Textiles 112
3.2 Effect of Pigment Particle Size on the Luminosity of PL Pigment Printed Textiles 114
3.3 Effect of Visual Perception on the PL Printed Textiles 115
4 Conclusion 116
References 117
Development and Characterization of Metal Woven Electric Heating Fabrics 119
1 Introduction 119
2 Materials and Methods 122
2.1 Fabrication of Electric Heating Fabrics 122
2.2 Characterization of Heat-Generating Property 123
3 Results and Discussion 124
3.1 Heat-Generating Property of Copper Woven Fabric 124
4 Conclusion 126
References 126
Textile Chemical Processing 128
Mechanical Properties of the Silk Degummed with Citric Acid and Ultrasound 129
1 Introduction 129
2 Experimental 131
2.1 Testing Samples 131
2.2 Traditional Degumming 131
2.3 Citric Acid Degumming 131
2.4 Ultrasound Degumming 131
2.5 Determining the Treatment Efficiency 132
3 Results and Discussion 132
4 Conclusion 135
References 136
Photocatalytic Decolorization of Rhodamine B Dye Solution Using TiO2 Coated Cotton Fabric 137
1 Introduction 137
2 Experimental Section 138
2.1 Materials 138
2.2 Preparation of TiO2 Sol 139
2.3 Application of TiO2 on Cotton Fabric 139
2.4 Characterization 139
2.5 Setup Used for Decolorization of Rhodamine B Dye Solution 140
3 Results and Discussion 141
3.1 XRD Analysis 141
3.2 SEM of TiO2 Coated Cotton Samples 141
3.3 Measurement of Titania Content in Fabric 142
3.4 UV Absorption Studies 143
3.5 Decolorization Study of Rhodamine B Dye Solution 144
3.6 Reusability of Samples for Dye Decolorization 146
4 Conclusions 147
References 148
Chemical Modification of Indian Yak Fibre for Development of Jute/Yak Fibres Blended Warm Textile 149
1 Introduction 149
2 Experimental 151
2.1 Materials and Modification of Yak Fibres 151
2.2 Evaluation of Physical Properties 152
2.3 Evaluation of Chemical Property 152
3 Results and Discussion 153
3.1 Physical Properties of Fibre 153
3.2 Measurement of Colour Parameters 156
3.3 Scanning Electron Microscope Morphology 157
3.4 EDX Elemental Analysis 158
3.5 Development Jute–Yak Fibres Blended Textile 161
4 Conclusion 162
References 162
Statistical Optimisation of Nano-Zinc Oxide-Based Fire-Protective Finish on Jute Fabric 164
1 Introduction 165
2 Materials and Methods 166
2.1 Fabrics 166
2.2 Chemicals 166
2.3 Preparation of Nanoparticles of ZnO 166
2.4 Application of ZnO Nanoparticles 167
2.5 Method of Optimisation of Fire-Retardant Formulation Using Response Surface Methodology 168
2.6 Testing Methods 168
3 Results and Discussions 171
3.1 Preliminary Study on Application of Mixtures of ZnO Nanoparticles and PHAMS Binder 171
3.2 Optimisation of the Fire-Retardant Formulation Using Nano-ZnO with Potassium Salt of Hidroxy-Methyl Siliconate (PHAMS) with User-Defined Quadratic Model (UDQM) by Response Surface Methodology 174
3.3 Comparison of Effect of Application of Normal ZnO Particles Versus Nanoparticles of ZnO for Obtaining Fire-Retardant Finish on Jute Fabric 181
3.4 Surface Appearance by Analysis of SEM Pictures for Control Jute and Treated Jute (Nano-ZnO and PHAMS Treated) 182
3.5 Reaction Mechanism 183
3.6 Analysis of FTIR Peak of Untreated and Treated (Nano-ZnO with PHAMS) Jute Substrate 185
3.7 Particle Size Distribution in Nano-ZnO on Treated Jute with PHAMS Binder 185
3.8 Elemental Analysis by EDX and AAS of Nano-ZnO with PHAMS-Treated Jute Substrate 185
4 Conclusions 187
References 188
A Study on the Efficiency of Lavender Microcapsules on Silk/Lyocell Blended Fabrics 189
1 Introduction 189
2 Materials and Methods 190
2.1 Materials 190
2.2 Methods 190
3 Results and Discussion 192
3.1 Psychophysical Assessment 192
3.2 Organoleptic Evaluation of Odour Control 193
3.3 Wash Durability 194
3.4 Characterization of Untreated and Lavender Treated S/L 50:50 Blended Fabrics 194
4 Conclusion 197
References 198
Garment and Accessory Design 199
Method Development for Modeling, Designing, and Digital Representation of Outdoor and Protective Clothing 200
1 Introduction 200
2 Simulation and Experimental Work 202
2.1 Thermophysiological Model Based on Individual Data 202
2.2 Selection of Material 203
2.3 Virtual 3D Fit Modeling of Outdoor Jacket 203
2.4 Thermal Simulation of Human Body and Outdoor Jacket in a Time-Dependent Variable Environment 205
3 Results and Discussion 209
4 Conclusion 211
References 212
Safer Custody Clothing: Designing for Female Prisoners at Risk of Self-Harm 214
1 Introduction 215
2 Background 215
3 The Project 216
3.1 Prison Clothing Provision 216
3.2 Industry-Sponsored Projects 217
3.3 HMPPS Design Brief: Safer Custody Clothing 217
3.4 Project Aim 218
3.5 Design Criteria: Safer Custody Clothing 218
3.6 Design Process 219
4 Pedagogy 219
5 Conclusion 221
References 222
Deeds Not Words, an Exploration into the Women’s Suffrage Movement in Ulster Through the Fashion and Freedom Project 223
1 Introduction 223
2 Materials 224
3 Methodology 225
4 Historical Context 225
5 Personal History 225
6 Artist/Designers in Residence 227
7 The One Week Project 230
8 Results 231
9 Discussion 232
10 Conclusion 233
References 234
Dynamic Anthropometry for Investigation of Body Movement Comfort in Protective Jacket 235
1 Introduction 235
1.1 Comfort in Clothing 235
1.2 Requirements for Protective Clothing Design for Wearer Comfort 236
1.3 Dynamic Anthropometry in Protective Clothing Design 236
1.4 PPE Dynamic and Fit 238
1.5 Aim of the Research 240
2 Materials and Methods 240
2.1 Target Group 240
2.2 Methods 240
3 Results 241
3.1 Target Group Sample Analysis 241
3.2 Pilot Experiment 247
4 Discussion and Conclusions 251
References 252
Development of Training Modules for Visually Impaired for Rehabilitation in Garment Manufacturing Units 254
1 Introduction 254
1.1 Visual Impairment 255
1.2 Rehabilitation 257
1.3 Employment of Visually Impairment Persons in India 257
1.4 Objectives 257
2 Materials and Methods 258
2.1 Phase I 258
2.2 Phase II 259
3 Result and Discussion 260
3.1 Task Evaluation 260
4 Summary and Conclusions 269
Appendix I 270
Bar-Tacking on Brother Bar-Tack Machine (KE-430D) 270
Appendix II 272
Lap Seam Using Brother Feed-off-the-Arm Machine (DA-9270) 272
References 273
Testing and Characterization 275
Thermo-Physiological Comfort and Microbial Properties of Different Textile Raw Materials and Structures 276
1 Introduction 277
2 Materials and Methods 278
2.1 Thermal and Water Vapour Resistance 278
2.2 Microbial Barrier Properties 280
3 Results and Discussion 280
4 Conclusion 283
References 284
Handle Assessment of Knitted Mattress Fabrics Treated with Flame Retardant Finishes Using Fabric Touch Tester Device 286
1 Introduction 286
2 Materials and Methods 288
2.1 Materials 288
2.2 Methods 288
3 Results and Discussion 289
4 Conclusion 294
References 295
Development of a Smoothness Tester for Fabrics 297
1 Introduction 297
2 Materials and Methods 298
2.1 Development of Instrument 299
2.2 Evaluation Smoothness Property of Fabric Samples 300
3 Results and Discussion 303
3.1 Effect of Treatments on Bending and Crease Recovery 303
3.2 Smoothness Property 304
4 Conclusions 308
References 308
Thickness Loss of Handmade Carpets After Dynamic Loading 310
1 Introduction 310
2 Materials and Methods 311
2.1 Materials 311
2.2 Manufacturing of Handmade Carpet Samples 313
2.3 Design of Experimentation (DOE) 314
2.4 Testing Methods 316
3 Results and Discussion 318
3.1 Response Surface Model (RSM) for Thickness Loss After Dynamic Loading 318
3.2 Thickness Loss Behaviour After Dynamic Loading 321
3.3 Contribution of Yarn and Carpet Parameters 322
4 Conclusions 323
References 323
Supply Chain Management and Sustainability 325
A New Collaborative Model for Demand-Driven Supply Chains: A Case Study on Textile Industry 326
1 Introduction 326
2 New Collaborative Model 328
2.1 Resource Sharing 329
2.2 Information Sharing 329
2.3 Joint Decision-making 329
3 Simulation Study on a Case in Demand-Driven Garment Supply Chain 330
3.1 Simulation Modelling 330
3.2 Experiments Design 331
4 Results 331
5 Conclusions and Future Research 333
References 334
Customer Analytics in Fashion Retail Industry 335
1 Introduction 335
2 Research Problem and Goal 336
3 Customer Analytics 337
3.1 Feature of Customer Analytics 338
3.2 Value Generation in Fashion Retail Industry 338
3.3 Strategy 338
3.4 Customer Analytics Methodologies 338
4 Customer Data Analysis 339
4.1 Methodology 340
4.2 Descriptive Analysis of the Data 340
4.3 Segmentation Based on Recency 341
4.4 Prediction Based on Transition Matrix for the Next 6 Months and 12 Months 344
5 Results and Conclusion 346
References 347
Recent Developments in Recycling Silk Saris 348
1 Textile Recycling 348
2 Silk Sari Recycling 349
2.1 Lifespan of a Silk Sari 349
2.2 Silk Sari Pattern Design 349
2.3 Upcycling Used Silk Sari 350
2.4 Downcycling Used Silk Sari 350
2.5 Other Possibilities 350
3 Conclusion 352
References 354
Awareness of Green Manufacturing in Apparel Industry 355
1 Introduction 355
1.1 Global Warming and Its Effect on Climate 355
1.2 Green Manufacturing and Its Advantage 356
1.3 Green Manufacturing Practice in Apparel Industry 357
2 Need of the Research 357
3 Methodology and Research Design 358
3.1 Methodology 358
3.2 Sample Size 358
4 Data Collection and Analysis 359
4.1 Checklist and Brain Storming Session for Research Instrument Development 359
4.2 Data Analysis 359
5 Findings 364
6 Conclusion 365
References 365
Sustainable Production by Modifying Reduction Clearing in Polyester Dyeing 367
1 Introduction 367
2 Materials and Methods 368
2.1 Materials 368
2.2 Methods 369
3 Results and Discussion 370
3.1 GC-MS Analysis 370
3.2 Cloud Point 375
3.3 Application Test 376
4 Conclusion 386
References 387
Traditional Textile Arts and Crafts 388
Crafting Lives: Redefining Culture and Artisan Lives Through the Revival of Crafts in the State of Punjab, India 389
1 Tracing the Tradition of Handicraft Skill 389
2 Livelihood and Emergence of Commercial Skill 390
3 The Popular Crafts of Punjab 392
3.1 Phulkari and Bagh 392
3.2 Durrie 393
3.3 Jutti 393
3.4 Paranda 393
3.5 Wood Inlay 394
4 The Punjabi Swag 395
5 Empowerment and Upliftment of Artisans 396
6 Steps and Medium for Revival of Crafts in Redefining the Culture of Punjab 397
6.1 Research and Development through Academia 398
7 Handicraft–Tourism Integration 399
8 Revival and the Status of Artisans 402
References 405
Moving Lights as Moving Spaces: Reinterpreting Traditional Bamboo Chik Making 408
1 Introduction 408
1.1 History and Origin 409
2 Traditional Chik Making 410
3 Context 412
4 Design Process 412
4.1 Understanding and Learning the Technique 413
4.2 Understanding the Space 413
4.3 Opportunities for Design Intervention 413
4.4 Innovation 416
5 Final Product 420
5.1 Potential and Ability 421
6 Suggestive Sustainability Model for Livelihood Generation for Artisans (Chik Makers and Weavers) Presently Engaged in the Craft 423
7 Conclusion 424
Bibliography 424
An Ergonomic Perspective of Uttarakhand Weavers 425
1 Introduction 425
2 Materials and Methods 427
3 Results and Discussion 427
4 Assessment of Ergonomic Problems of Weavers 427
5 Conclusion 442
References 443

Erscheint lt. Verlag 28.6.2019
Zusatzinfo XI, 463 p. 209 illus., 171 illus. in color.
Sprache englisch
Themenwelt Naturwissenschaften Chemie
Technik Maschinenbau
Wirtschaft Betriebswirtschaft / Management Logistik / Produktion
Schlagworte Ergonomics • Functional finishes • Garment design and fit • Industrial textiles • Medical Textiles • Protective Textiles • Supply Chain Management • textile engineering
ISBN-10 981-13-7721-9 / 9811377219
ISBN-13 978-981-13-7721-1 / 9789811377211
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