Sustainability in Fashion (eBook)

Claudia E Henninger is Lecturer in Fashion Marketing Management at Manchester University, UK, where she teaches sustainability and strategic management. Claudia has presented her research at national and international conferences and published in leading journals. Claudia is the Deputy Chair of the Academy of Marketing SIG Sustainability. Panayiota J Alevizou is Lecturer in Marketing at Sheffield University, UK, where she teaches Marketing Theory and Practice, and Retail/Services Marketing. She is Programme Director of International Business and Management and part of the Centre for Research in Marketing and Society. She is interested in consumer behaviour, company communication, and certification strategies. Panayiota is a Higher Education Academy Fellow and worked as a marketing consultant in Greece. Helen Goworek is MSc Marketing Programme Leader at Leicester University, UK, and chair of the British Academy of Management’s Sustainable and Responsible Business conference track. She is the author of three books about fashion business and retailing, and has also written book chapters and articles on retail buying, product development and sustainability. She is a member of the organising committees for the Management and Environmental Sustainability conference and the International Colloquium on Design, Branding and Marketing (ICDBM). Daniella Ryding is Lecturer in Fashion Marketing at Manchester University, UK. An active researcher with over 30 published articles and several text book contributions, her main research interests focus on consumer behaviour within an international fashion retailing context, and more recent research looks at neuromarketing. Daniella is also interested in sustainability; mainly the ecological and ethical principles which drive business strategy.

Sustainability in Fashion 3
Acknowledgements 5
Contents 6
List of Figures 16
List of Tables 17
1 Introduction to Sustainability in Fashion 18
1.1 Idea for Sustainability in Fashion 18
1.2 Sustainability and the Fashion Industry 20
1.3 Content of Sustainability in Fashion 21
1.4 Dedications and Acknowledgements 24
References 25
2 The Epiphanic Sustainable Fast Fashion Epoch 28
2.1 Objectives 28
2.2 Introduction 29
2.2.1 Ethical Philosophy 29
2.2.2 Ethics and Sustainability in the Fashion Sector 31
2.2.3 Consumer Consideration 32
2.2.4 Disseminating Sustainable Message 34
2.2.5 Fashion Legalities + Policies + Best Practices 37
2.2.6 Fast Fashion and Sustainability: The Tipping Point 39
2.2.7 Summary: The Future of Sustainability in Fashion 41
2.3 Discussion Questions 42
References 43
Further Readings 45
3 Sustainability and the Fashion Industry: Conceptualizing Nature and Traceability 48
3.1 Introduction 48
3.2 The Case for Sustainability 49
3.3 Slow Versus Fast Fashion 52
3.4 Consumer Awareness and a New Market for Ethical Products 54
3.5 The Role of Traceability 55
3.6 Traceability Equals Transparency 56
3.7 Nature 58
3.8 Romantic Discourses of Nature 60
3.9 Tracing Nature 61
3.10 Discussion 63
3.11 Future Research 65
References 66
4 The Influence of Eco-Labelling on Ethical Consumption of Organic Cotton 72
4.1 Introduction 72
4.2 Organic Cotton Production 74
4.3 The Development of Ethical Consumption 77
4.4 The Attitude-Behaviour Gap in Ethical Consumption 79
4.5 Barriers and Drivers of Organic Cotton Consumption 81
4.6 The Process of Eco-Labelling 82
4.7 The Influence of Eco-Labelling on Ethical Consumption 84
4.8 The Status of Organic Cotton in the UK Fashion Market 86
4.9 Conclusion 88
References 88
5 An Exploration of Consumers’ Perceptions Towards Sustainable Fashion – A Qualitative Study in the UK 98
5.1 Introduction 98
5.2 Literature Review 99
5.2.1 Sustainable Fashion 99
5.2.2 Outlook of the Fashion Industry 101
5.2.3 Sustainable Fashion Consumption in the UK 101
5.3 Methodology 103
5.4 Findings and Discussion 105
5.4.1 Perceptions and Attitudes Towards the Sustainable Fashion Movement 105
5.4.2 Associations of Sustainable Fashion 106
5.4.3 Influencers Affecting Consumers’ Purchasing Decisions 109
5.4.4 Sustainable Fashion – Who Is Responsible? 112
5.5 Conclusion 113
References 114
6 Ethical Consumption Patterns and the Link to Purchasing Sustainable Fashion 119
6.1 Introduction 119
6.2 The Rise of Sustainability in the Fashion Industry and Aspects of Ethical Consumption 121
6.3 Methodology 124
6.3.1 Sample and Procedure 124
6.3.2 Measures 125
6.3.3 Validity and Reliability 126
6.3.4 Analysis and Results 126
6.3.5 Hypotheses Testing 130
6.4 Discussion 133
6.5 Conclusion 137
References 138
7 Determining Effective Sustainable Fashion Communication Strategies 143
7.1 Introduction 143
7.2 Methodology 147
7.3 Results 150
7.3.1 Consumers 150
7.3.2 Communication 153
7.4 Analysis and Discussion 156
7.5 Conclusions 161
References 162
8 Fashion in a Circular Economy 166
8.1 Introduction 166
8.2 Design for Longevity, Quality and Design for Long-Term Satisfaction 167
8.3 Design for Services: Offering Satisfaction and Change in a Sustainable Way 171
8.4 Design for Reuse in Manufacture 172
8.5 Design for Material Recovery 175
8.6 New Business Models in a Circular Economy 177
8.7 Who Is Needed and How to Make the Transformation 178
References 181
9 Investigating the Relationship Between Consumer Attitudes and Sustainable Fashion Product Development 185
9.1 Introduction 185
9.2 Influences on Consumer Behaviour Towards Sustainable Clothing 188
9.2.1 Purchase 188
9.2.2 Maintenance: Wear, Care and Repair 189
9.2.3 Re-use and Disposal 192
9.3 Methodology 193
9.3.1 Sampling 193
9.3.2 Focus Groups 194
9.3.3 Clothing Diaries 194
9.4 Findings 194
9.4.1 Purchase 195
9.4.2 Usage: Care, Maintenance and Repair 197
9.4.3 Re-use/Disposal 199
9.5 Conclusion 200
References 202
10 Social Sustainability in Apparel Supply Chains: Organizational Practices for Managing Sub-Contracted Homework 207
10.1 Introduction 207
10.2 Review of Literature 208
10.2.1 Managing Corporate Social Responsibility from a Homework Perspective 209
10.2.2 Self Employed Women’s Association 211
10.3 Theoretical Framework 211
10.4 Methods 213
10.5 Findings 213
10.5.1 Integrated CSR Management Systems 214
10.5.2 Improvement of Homeworker Working Conditions 217
10.5.3 Organizing and Empowering Homeworkers 221
10.5.4 Engagement with Brands and Public 223
10.6 Discussion 224
10.6.1 Homework Change Model’s Influence 224
10.6.2 SEWA Livelihood Promotion Project – A CSR Best Practice 224
10.7 Practical Implications 226
References 227
11 User Satisfaction and Dissatisfaction in the App Sharing Economy 231
11.1 Introduction 231
11.2 Literature Review and Conceptual Framework 234
11.2.1 Literature Review 234
11.2.2 Conceptual Framework 235
11.3 Data and Methodology 238
11.3.1 Data Collection 238
11.3.2 Sample Selection 238
11.3.3 Content Analysis 239
11.4 Findings and Discussion 243
11.4.1 App Design 245
11.4.2 Reliability 246
11.4.3 Product Portfolio 248
11.5 Conclusion 249
11.6 Limitations 251
11.7 Future Research 252
11.8 Practical Implications 252
References 253
12 A Review of Secondhand Luxury and Vintage Clothing 259
12.1 Introduction 259
12.2 Fashion Retailing and Sustainability in Context 261
12.3 Secondhand Clothing 264
12.4 Vintage – Definitions and Development 267
12.5 The Rise of Vintage – Key Influences 268
12.6 Purchasing Behaviour and Motivation for Opting “Vintage” 270
12.7 Purchasing Behaviour for Secondhand Vintage Fashion 270
12.8 Conclusion and Recommendations for Future Research 273
References 274
Index 281