Surf Adventures -  Charlie &  quote;  Sharky&  quote;  Cornell

Surf Adventures (eBook)

eBook Download: EPUB
2021 | 1. Auflage
287 Seiten
Bookbaby (Verlag)
978-1-0983-8798-3 (ISBN)
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Riding waves has been a part of Charlie 'Sharky' Cornell's life since he was 12 years old when he moved to Hawaii. In 'Surf Adventures', he shares some of the many adventures and stories from his years of experience surfing in different countries! This is a must-read for surfers, and anyone with an adventurer's spirit.
Riding waves has been a part of Charlie "e;Sharky"e; Cornell's life since he was 12 years old. In "e;Surf Adventures"e;, he shares some of the many adventures and stories from his years of experience surfing in different countries! This is a must-read for surfers, and anyone with an adventurer's spirit. Sharky rode his first wave on a Canvas Raft at San Clemente Beach in 1967. In 1968, he moved to Laie Pt., Hawaii and his world of surfing began. Since that time, he grew up surfing on the North Shore of Oahu and has surfed in different foreign countries. Sharky isn't a pro surfer, but he's a true surf adventurer. After reading his stories from a life of riding waves, readers will certainly be inspired to embark on their own surf adventures. Aloha!

BIRTHDAY SURF
Birthdays.…some are better than others. For my 40th birthday I had a custom surfboard shaped by my friend Hoey Johnson. We both put in design ideas and he shaped it. It was great because since he was a friend, he knew I had some surfboard design experience and I was able to be in the room with him while discussing ideas as the board developed.
My surfboard was a combination of styles from the 70’s and 90’s. The board was 7′2″ swallow tall with slight winds and a dramatic V bottom. The board was a tribute to Larry Bertleman. It had a small swallow tail with Tom Carroll speed style rails.
After we finished shaping the blank, I took it up to my “Jungle Shark, Shack home.” I can’t tell you exactly where my place was. It’s hard to get to, but it was the highest house on the hill over-looking Sunset beach and the North Shore. You could sit on the deck at my house, stare at Sunset beach and watch the waves at Pipeline. It was awesome.
I had a good friend named Darren Frederickson who is an artist. He came up to my place to airbrush my surfboard. The art design we decided on was the view looking out my front window. We added some Hawaiian personal touches, it really turned out great.
I then had another friend of mine, Shawn Donnelly glass the board. I designed my own templates for fins form my personal knowledge of rail & tail. All of that surfing through the years have given me a good idea of what kind of board I like to ride.
There was a time in the 70’s that I had 29 surf boards, but I have thinned my collection down to:
6′4″- Johnny Bay Bad Boy- Diamond tail
6′6″- Poncho Sullivan – Wide Round Pin Tail “Search model”
6′9″- Custom Shape Pin Tail - My good friend, Bushman and myself designed.
7′0″- Local Motion Pin Tail- My Ferrari
7′3″- Hoey Custom Swallow Tail
8′6″- Eric Arakawa- Straight Pin
7′6″- Bali Blaster
7′8″- Brewer Pin Tail
8′6″- Owl Chapman
8′9″- Fun Shape Long Board
My 7′2″ board was finished and looking beautiful the day before my actual Birthday, which was all I wanted (and of course, to find some good waves to surf). As I awoke that day, I couldn’t help but walk down memory lane in my mind about how many waves I had been blessed to surf.
At that time, in my 27 years, I had surfed so many great waves. Not just that, but the lifestyle and the many good friends I had made throughout the world just because of waves. When you have been blessed like I have, the best thing you can do is pass it on and stoke people out. Not to mention what a healthy sport it is for the mind, body, and spirit.
I got on the phone and called my long-time surf bro’s Charlie and Shawn and set up a morning surf session. The wind had turned to what is called Kona Wind, which makes the North Shore choppy and the windward side off shore beautiful. I had first learned to surf off of Laie Point, so I was familiar with the few surf breaks on that side.
I heard a horn honking, so I knew it was time to meet the crew and go on the search for my birthday waves. It was a beautiful sunny day with a few fluffy clouds and of course, rainbows. I got to the truck and the boys were stoked and ready to go.
After heading down the road Charlie said, “I have a good friend who lives on this private ranch. There’s a big gate that is locked and he is the only one with the key. He will get us in. On his beach, there are some good waves.” Charlie got on his cell phone and called, but there was no answer.
We decided to take a chance and drive down to his place and hope to get in. It was a great start to any birthday because when we got to the end of the dirt road in the middle of nowhere was Charlie’s friend by the gate getting ready to leave. He was happy to see Charlie and said, “sure come on in but lock the gate behind you and we will stash the key under this rock.” I was stocked, and we still hadn’t even seen the water yet.
We thanked him and continued on the dirt road. In about a mile we came upon an opening that led to the beach. We were able to drive literally up to the beach and in front of us was an off shore “Perfect” right and left 10-foot face awesome wave.
How more stoked could I get. A new customized board, 2 good friends, beautiful sunny day, and our own surf with nobody out. It was all ours. Now I love this next part of the story.
We jumped out of the truck and grabbed the boards and started waxing them up. Just then we hear a voice, I turned and look and there was a man. He was 76 years old with a small backpack. A bottle of water in one hand and a boogie board and fins in the other.
I stood up and said, “Wow man where did you come from?” He laughed and said, “boy I sure am glad to see you guys. I walked here this morning; I could tell the surf was good... but I am exhausted. I have been boogie boarding all morning by myself. Do you think I could catch a ride back with you?” Charlie said, “sure, but we just got here so were going to surf for a couple hours. He replied, “if it’s okay I will just take a quick sleep in the back of your truck (camper) until you’re finished”.
We said, “great!” We all shook hands and I told him how inspiring he was to me on my birthday. He was 30+ years older than me and still charging the waves. He said, “well I am getting older now I surfed for about 40 years, but my arms don’t have the strength to paddle through the waves, but I’ve got damn good strong legs so I put some fins on and I’m out riding the waves again!”
I thought to myself, “it’s so true! Your only as old as you feel so keep yourselves fit”. It was a testament to what a healthy sport riding waves really is. I’ve never forgotten that man, I can’t remember his name but that was 20 years ago. His inspiration still lives on in me, I hope to pass it on to as many people as possible.
The crew gave each other high fives like a team before a game and the old timer joined in with us. I ran to the surf. As the crew paddled out, we were all hooting as we saw the mystical setting with airbrush deep blue waves breaking in front of us. It felt to me as though we were paddling into a great, surreal picture. My new board paddled really nice and felt really good. Our timing was right on because a beautiful set of waves was on its way in. Shawn yelled, “take the first one!” I yelled back, “thanks, but I want the outside wave!”
I paddled for the horizon as I went over the 4th wave. I saw the next wave was the one I was waiting for. I started paddling and like in slow motion I was dropping down the steep face. The water was smooth because of the off-shore wind. I got to the bottom and thought I am going to lay into the hardest bottom turn I can and see how my board responded.
My rail and tail cut deep. As I came off the bottom of the wave, my board accelerated as I headed for the top. That was great news because I knew right then that Our combo design was working. It felt smooth as silk.
As I got to the top of the wave, I slid my back foot on the tail and drove it as hard as I could. The board responded very well as a giant rooster tail flew off the back of my board. I was reentering the wave when I heard Shawn yell, “Nice Bro!” I looked down the line and the wave was starting to suck off the reef and I knew I was about to get barreled in this big spinning blue barrel.
The lip threw way out in front of me and I found myself in an unforgettable blue room. I was moving so fast I got shot out like a cannon and there in front of me was a sick looking 20-foot section of wave. There was nothing else to do but pull in the barrel for a second time for some more blue room travel time.
I knew I wasn’t going to make it out of this one, but how could I refuse such an incredible view. I traveled a few seconds, it crashed down on me, and drove me right into the reef. I landed flat on my back. I felt a tug on my foot leash and knew it had broken. I instantly thought, “Oh no! My new board is on the inside reef with rocks getting beat up and dinged.”
There was no way to call over to Charlie or Shawn to paddle in the same direction as my board, because they were so far outside in the surf. I pushed off the reef and popped to the surface. I looked around and couldn’t see my board, so I just started swimming in as fast as I could.
I finally spotted my board floating in the inside channel. I was so relieved; I paddled back to the beach and ran to the truck and started searching for a new foot leash. The old timer was there, and he had a set of binoculars in his backpack. He gave me a big smile and said, “I saw you catch that wave. It looked like the best present Mother Nature could have given you.”
I’m sure I was smiling from ear to ear as I walked over and said, “thanks for helping share my birthday present with me today.” I laughed and gave him a hug and a high ten. I went and looked under that back seat and there was an extra brand-new foot leash still in the package.
What a great Birthday. We all topped it off later at Charlie’s house with a big barbecue, fresh fish,...

Erscheint lt. Verlag 4.7.2021
Sprache englisch
Themenwelt Sachbuch/Ratgeber Sport
ISBN-10 1-0983-8798-8 / 1098387988
ISBN-13 978-1-0983-8798-3 / 9781098387983
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