Macedonia

Thammy Evans lived and worked in Macedonia for five years as political advisor to NATO HQ Skopje. Now she continues to work on development and governance issues at the International Security Sector Advisory Team in Geneva, Switzerland, whilst working on other authoring projects in her spare time. She has written the Bradt Guide to the Great Wall of China, and is currently writing the Bradt Guide to Istria. She has a second home in Croatia.

Contents
Introduction ix
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Ancient roads in Macedonia 5, Climate 7,
Flora and fauna 7, Environmental efforts 12, History 14,
Government and politics 37, Economy 39, People 40,
Language 50, Religion 51, Education 55, Culture 56
Chapter 2 Practical Information 63
When to visit 63, Highlights 63, Suggested itineraries 65,
Tour operators 66, Red tape 69, Embassies 70, Getting
there and away 72, Maps and tourist information 78,
Health 79, Security and safety 88, Women travellers 90,
Gay travellers 91, Travellers with disabilities 91, Travelling
with children 91, What to take 92, Money 94, Budgeting
94, Getting around 95, Accommodation 98, Eating and
drinking 101, Public holidays and festivals 104, Shopping
106, Arts and entertainment 106, Outdoor pursuits 107,
Photography 111, Media and communications 112,
Business 115, Buying property 116, Cultural etiquette 117,
Interacting with local people 117, Travelling positively 119
PART TWO THE GUIDE 121
Chapter 3 Skopje 123
History 123, Getting there and away 130, Getting around
130, Tourist information 134, Where to stay 134, Where
to eat and drink 137, Entertainment and nightlife 140,
Shopping 143, Other practicalities 144, What to see 144,
Activities 152
Chapter 4 Outside Skopje 155
Where to eat and drink 155, Horseriding 158, Mount
Vodno 158, Lake Matka and caves 159, Katlanovska Banja
163, The old stone aqueduct 165, Pantelejmon Monastery
166, Suto Orizari Roma settlement and market 166,
Archaeological sites around Skopje 169
Chapter 5 Lake Ohrid and Galicica National Park 173
Ohrid 173, Outside Ohrid 192, Struga 194, Galicica
National Park 198, Day trips in the area 199
Chapter 6 Pelagonia, Prespa and Pelister 207
History of the region 207, Bitola 211, Pelister National
Park and ecotourism 220, Lake Prespa 225, Prilep 228,
Outside Prilep 233, Krusevo 236, Demir Hisar 239
Chapter 7 Polog and Mavrovo 241
Tetovo 241, Popova Sapka ski resort and mountain range
251, Gostivar 253, Mavrovo National Park 256, Debar 258,
Outside Debar 263, Kicevo 266
Chapter 8 The Northeast and Middle Vardar 269
Veles 269, Stip 275, Kocani 279, Delcevo 281, Berovo 282,
Kumanovo 283, Outside Kumanovo 286, Kriva Palanka
288, Kratovo 291, Outside Kratovo 294, Sveti Nikole 296
Chapter 9 The Southern Wine Region 297
Strumica 297, Outside Strumica 307, Valandovo 312,
Wines from the Tikves plains 312, Kavadarci 313,
Negotino 314, Stobi 314, Demir Kapija - the Iron Gate
316, Gevgelija 317, Kozuf ski resort and mountain range
319, Lake Dojran 320
Chapter 10 A Dozen Hikes 325
Hiking clubs 326, Mountain hut system 326, 1 Vodno
Cross to Matka Dam 328, 2 Marko's Tower to Treskavec
Monastery 330, 3 Demir Kapija to Iberlija and Koresnica
332, 4 Oktisi to Vajtos and Vevcani 334, 5 Two Lakes view
336, 6 Rostuse and Duf Waterfall 338, 7 Jance to Galicnik
(Wedding Festival) 338, 8 Biljana Waterfalls and Dolna
Alilica Cave 340, 9 Titov Vrv 342, 10 Kriva Sija Waterfall
342, 11 Mount Kitka 344, 12 Brajcino to Pelister Lakes
and Nizepole 345
Appendix 1 Language 347
Appendix 2 Glossary of Terms and Names 361
Appendix 3 Guide to Wines of Macedonia 363
Appendix 4 Further Information 365
Index 375