Macedonia

Thammy Evans lived and worked in Macedonia for five years as political advisor to NATO HQ Skopje. Now she continues to work on development and governance issues at the International Security Sector Advisory Team in Geneva, Switzerland, whilst working on other authoring projects in her spare time. She has written the Bradt Guide to the Great Wall of China, and is currently writing the Bradt Guide to Istria. She has a second home in Croatia.

Contents
Introduction viii
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3
Ancient roads in Macedonia 5
Climate 7
Flora and fauna 7
Environmental efforts 12
History 14
Government and politics 37
Economy 38
People 39
Language 49
Religion 50
Education 54
Culture 55

Chapter 2 Practical Information 61
When to visit 61
Highlights 61
Suggested itineraries 63
Tour operators 64
Red tape 67
Embassies 68
Getting there and away 70
Maps and tourist information 73
Health 77
Security and safety 86
Women travellers 89
Gay travellers 89
Disabled travellers 89
Travelling with children 90
What to take 91
Money 93
Budgeting 93
Getting around 94
Accommodation 97
Eating and drinking 99
Public holidays and festivals 102
Shopping 104
Arts and entertainment 105
Outdoor pursuits 105
Photography 112
Media and communications 112
Business 114
Buying property 115
Cultural etiquette 116
Interacting with local people 116
Travelling positively 118

PART TWO THE GUIDE 121
Chapter 3 Skopje 123
History 123
Getting there and away 130
Getting around 130
Tourist information 131
Where to stay 134
Where to eat 136
Entertainment and nightlife 139
Shopping 142
Other practicalities 143
What to see 143
Activities 151

Chapter 4 Outside Skopje 153
Where to eat 153
Horseriding 156
Mount Vodno 156
Lake Matka and caves 157
Katlanovska Banja 161
The old stone aqueduct 162
Pantelejmon Monastery 164
Suto Orizari Roma settlement and market 164
Archaeological sites around Skopje 167
Tauresium 168
Markov Monastir 169
Sv Bogorodica Monastery near Kozle 169

Chapter 5 Lake Ohrid and Galicica National Park 171
Ohrid 171
Outside Ohrid 189
Struga 191
Galicica National Park 196
Day trips in the area 196

Chapter 6 Pelagonia, Prespa and Pelister 203
History of the region 203
Bitola 207
Pelister National Park and ecotourism 215
Lake Prespa 220
Prilep 223
Outside Prilep 228
Krusevo 231
Demir Hisar 234

Chapter 7 Polog and Mavrovo 235
Tetovo 235
Popova Sapka ski resort and mountain range 245
Gostivar 247
Mavrovo National Park 250
Debar 252
Outside Debar 257
Kicevo 260

Chapter 8 The Northeast and Middle Vardar 263
Veles 263
Stip 269
Kocani 273
Delcevo 275
Berovo 276
Kumanovo 277
Outside Kumanovo 281
Kriva Palanka 283
Kratovo 286
Outside Kratovo 288
Sveti Nikole 290

Chapter 9 The Southern Wine Region 293
Strumica 293
Outside Strumica 303
Valandovo 308
Wines from the Tikves plains 308
Kavadarci 309
Negotino 310
Stobi 311
Demir Kapija - the Iron Gate 312
Gevgelija 313
Kozuf ski resort and mountain range 315
Lake Dojran 316

Chapter 10 A Dozen Hikes 321
Hiking clubs 322
Mountain hut system 322
Vodno Cross to Matka Dam 324
Marko's Tower to Treskavec Monastery 326
Demir Kapija to Iberlija and Koresnica 328
Oktisi to Vajtos and Vevcani 330
Two Lakes view 332
Rostuse and Duf Waterfall 334
Jance to Galicnik (Wedding Festival) 334
Biljana Waterfalls and Dolna Alilica Cave 336
Titov Vrv 338
Kriva Sija Waterfall 338
Mount Kitka 340
Brajcino to Pelister Lakes and Nizepole 341

Appendix 1 Language 343

Appendix 2 Glossary of Terms and Names 357

Appendix 3 Guide to Wines of Macedonia 359

Appendix 4 Further Information 361

Index 372