Cosmetic Dermatology

Zoe Diana Draelos, MD, is a board certified dermatologist in private practice and a Primary Investigator for Dermatology Consulting Services, a company she founded in 1988 to provide education, perform adverse reaction evaluation, and conduct clinical studies in association with the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industry.

Contributors, viii

Foreword, xii

Preface, xiii

Part I: Basic Concepts, 1

Section 1: Skin Physiology Pertinent to Cosmetic Dermatology, 3

1 Epidermal Barrier, 3
Sreekumar Pillai, Megan Manco, and Christian Oresajo

2 Photoaging, 13
Kira Minkis, Jillian Havey Swary, and Murad Alam

3 Pigmentation and Skin of Color, 23
Jasmine C. Hollinger, Chesahna Kindred, and Rebat M. Halder

4 Sensitive Skin and the Somatosensory System, 33
Francis McGlone and David Reilly

5 Novel, Compelling, Non-invasive Techniques for Evaluating Cosmetic Products, 42
Thomas J. Stephens, Christian Oresajo, Lily I. Jiang, and Robert Goodman

6 Contact Dermatitis and Topical Agents, 52
David E. Cohen, Alexandra Price, and Sarika Ramachandran

Section 2: Delivery of Cosmetic Skin Actives, 65

7 Percutaneous Delivery of Cosmetic Actives to the Skin, 65
Sreekumar Pillai, Surabhi Singh, and Christian Oresajo

8 Creams and Ointments, 75
Irwin Palefsky

Part II: Hygiene Products, 81

Section 1: Cleansers, 83

9 Bar Cleansers, 83
Anthony W. Johnson, K.P. Ananthapadmanabhan, Stacy Hawkins, and Greg Nole

10 Personal Cleansers: Body Washes, 96
Keith Ertel and Heather Focht

11 Facial Cleansers and Cleansing Cloths, 103
Thomas Barlage, Susan Griffiths-Brophy, and Erik J. Hasenoehrl

12 Hand Cleansers and Sanitizers, 110
Duane Charbonneau

13 Shampoos for Normal Scalp Hygiene and Dandruff, 124
James R. Schwartz, Eric S. Johnson, and Thomas L. Dawson, Jr.

Section 2: Moisturizers, 132

14 Facial Moisturizers, 132
Yohini Appa

15 Hand and Foot Moisturizers, 139
Teresa M. Weber, Andrea M. Schoelermann, Ute Breitenbach, Ulrich Scherdin, and Alexandra Kowcz

16 Sunless Tanning Products, 148
Angelike Galdi, Peter Foltis, and Christian Oresajo

17 Sunscreens, 153
Dominique Moyal, Angelike Galdi, and Christian Oresajo

Section 3: Personal Care Products, 160

18 Antiperspirants and Deodorants, 160
Eric S. Abrutyn

19 Blade Shaving, 166
Kevin Cowley, Kristina Vanoosthuyze, Gillian McFeat, and Keith Ertel

Part III: Adornment, 175

Section 1: Colored Facial Cosmetics, 175

20 Facial Foundation, 177
Sylvie Guichard and Véronique Roulier

21 Camouflage Techniques, 186
Anne Bouloc

22 Lips and Lipsticks, 193
Catherine Heusèle, Hervé Cantin, and Frédéric Bonté

23 Eye Cosmetics, 199
Sarah A. Vickery, Robyn Kolas, and Fatima Dicko

Section 2: Nail Cosmetics, 207

24 Nail Physiology and Grooming, 207
Anna Hare and Phoebe Rich

25 Colored Nail Cosmetics and Hardeners, 217
Paul H. Bryson and Sunil J. Sirdesai

26 Cosmetic Prostheses as Artificial Nail Enhancements, 226
Douglas Schoon

Section 3: Hair Cosmetics, 234

27 Hair Physiology and Grooming, 234
Maria Hordinsky, Ana Paula Avancini Caramori, and Jeff C. Donovan

28 Hair Dyes, 239
Rene C. Rust and Harald Schlatter

29 Permanent Hair Waving, 251
Annette Schwan-Jonczyk, Gerhard Sendelbach, Andreas Flohr, and Rene C. Rust

30 Hair Straightening, 262
Harold Bryant, Felicia Dixon, Angela Ellington, and Crystal Porter

31 Hair Styling: Technology and Formulations, 270
Thomas Krause and Rene C. Rust

Part IV: Anti-aging, 281

Section 1: Cosmeceuticals, 283

32 Botanicals, 283
Carl R. Thornfeldt

33 Antioxidants and Anti-inflammatories, 295
Bryan B. Fuller

34 Peptides and Proteins, 308
Karl Lintner

35 Cellular Growth Factors, 318
Rahul C. Mehta and Richard E. Fitzpatrick

36 Topical Cosmeceutical Retinoids, 325
Olivier Sorg, Gürkan Kaya, and Jean H. Saurat

37 Topical Vitamins, 336
Donald L. Bissett, John E. Oblong, and Laura J. Goodman

38 Clinical Uses of Hydroxyacids, 346
Barbara A. Green, Eugene J. Van Scott, and Ruey J. Yu

39 The Contribution of Dietary Nutrients and Supplements to Skin Health, 357
Helen Knaggs, Steve Wood, Doug Burke, Jan Lephart, and Jin Namkoong

Section 2: Injectable Anti-aging Techniques, 364

40 Botulinum Toxins, 364
J. Daniel Jensen, Scott R. Freeman, and Joel L. Cohen

41 Hyaluronic Acid Fillers, 375
Mark S. Nestor, Emily L. Kollmann, and Nicole Swenson

42 Calcium Hydroxylapatite for Soft Tissue Augmentation, 380
Stephen Mandy

43 Autologous Skin Fillers, 385
Amer H. Nassar, Andrew S. Dorizas, and Neil S. Sadick

44 Polylactic Acid Fillers, 390
Kenneth R. Beer and Jacob Beer

Section 3: Resurfacing Techniques, 395

45 Superficial Chemical Peels, 395
M. Amanda Jacobs and Randall Roenigk

46 Medium Depth Chemical Peels, 402
Gary D. Monheit and Virginia A. Koubek

47 CO2 Laser Resurfacing: Confluent and Fractionated, 412
Mitchel P. Goldman and Ana Marie Liolios

48 Nonablative Lasers, 429
Adam S. Nabatian and David J. Goldberg

49 Dermabrasion, 437
Christopher B. Harmon and Daniel P. Skinner

Section 4: Skin Modulation Techniques, 445

50 Laser-assisted Hair Removal, 445
Keyvan Nouri, Voraphol Vejjabhinanta, Nidhi Avashia, and Jinda Rojanamatin

51 Radiofrequency Devices, 451
Vic Narurkar

52 LED Photomodulation for Reversal of Photoaging and Reduction of Inflammation, 456
David McDaniel, Robert Weiss, Roy Geronemus, Corinne Granger, and Leila Kanoun-Copy

Section 5: Skin Contouring Techniques, 463

53 Liposuction: Manual, Mechanical, and Laser Assisted, 463
Anne Goldsberry, Emily Tierney, and C. William Hanke

54 Liposuction of the Neck, 476
Kimberly J. Butterwick

55 Hand Recontouring with Calcium Hydroxylapatite, 485
Kenneth L. Edelson

Section 6: Implementation of Cosmetic Dermatology into Therapeutics, 492

56 Anti-aging Regimens, 492
Karen E. Burke

57 Over-the-counter Acne Treatments, 501
Emmy M. Graber and Diane Thiboutot

58 Rosacea Regimens, 509
Joseph Bikowski

59 Eczema Regimens, 517
Zoe D. Draelos

60 Psoriasis Regimens, 522
Laura F. Sandoval, Karen E. Huang, and Steven R. Feldman

Index, 529