Cosmetic Dermatology

Zoe Diana Draelos, Consulting Professor of Dermatology at Duke University Department of Dermatology in Durham, North Carolina, USA

Contributors, viii Foreword, xiv Jeffrey S. Dover Introduction: Definition of Cosmetic Dermatology, xv Zoe D. Draelos Section I: Basic Concepts, 1 Part One: Skin Physiology Pertinent to Cosmetic Dermatology, 3 1 Epidermal barrier, 3 Sreekumar Pillai, Marc Cornell, and Christian Oresajo 2 Photoaging, 13 Murad Alam and Jillian Havey 3 Self-perceived sensitive skin, 22 Olivier de Lacharriere 4 Pigmentation and skin of color, 27 Chesahna Kindred and Rebat M. Halder 5 Sensitive skin and the somatosensory system, 38 Francis McGlone and David Reilly 6 Novel, compelling non-invasive techniques for evaluating cosmetic products, 47 Thomas J. Stephens, Christian Oresajo, Robert Goodman,Margarita Yatskayer, and Paul Kavanaugh 7 Contact dermatitis and topical agents, 55 David E. Cohen and Aieska de Souza Part Two: Delivery of Cosmetic Skin Actives, 62 8 Percutaneous delivery of cosmetic actives to the skin, 62 Marc Cornell, Sreekumar Pillai, and Christian Oresajo 9 Creams, lotions, and ointments, 71 Irwin Palefsky Section II: Hygiene Products, 75 Part One: Cleansers, 77 10 Bar cleansers, 77 Anthony W. Johnson and K.P. Ananthapadmanabhan 11 Personal cleansers: body washes, 88 Keith Ertel and Heather Focht 12 Facial cleansers and cleansing cloths, 95 Erik Hasenoehrl 13 Non-foaming and low-foaming cleansers, 102 Duncan Aust 14 Liquid hand cleansers and sanitizers, 106 Duane Charbonneau 15 Shampoos for normal scalp hygiene and dandruff, 115 James R. Schwartz, Marcela Valenzuela, and Sanjeev Midha Part Two: Moisturizers, 123 16 Facial moisturizers, 123 Yohini Appa 17 Hand and foot moisturizers, 130 Teresa M. Weber, Andrea M. Schoelermann, Ute Breitenbach,Ulrich Scherdin, and Alexandra Kowcz 18 Sunless tanning products, 139 Angelike Galdi, Peter Foltis, and Christian Oresajo 19 Sunscreens, 144 Dominique Moyal, Angelike Galdi, and Christian Oresajo Part Three: Personal Care Products, 150 20 Antiperspirants and deodorants, 150 Eric S. Abrutyn 21 Blade shaving, 156 Keith Ertel and Gillian McFeat Section III: Adornment, 165 Part One: Colored Facial Cosmetics, 167 22 Facial foundation, 167 Sylvie Guichard and Veronique Roulier 23 Camoufl age techniques, 176 Anne Bouloc 24 Lips and lipsticks, 184 Catherine Heusele, Herve Cantin, and Frederic Bonte 25 Eye cosmetics, 190 Sarah A. Vickery, Peter Wyatt, and John Gilley Part Two: Nail Cosmetics, 197 26 Nail physiology and grooming, 197 Phoebe Rich and Heh Shin R. Kwak 27 Colored nail cosmetics and hardeners, 206 Paul H. Bryson and Sunil J. Sirdesai 28 Cosmetic prostheses as artificial nail enhancements, 215 Douglas Schoon Part Three: Hair Cosmetics, 222 29 Hair physiology and grooming, 222 Maria Hordinsky, Ana Paula Avancini Caramori, and Jeff D. Donovan 30 Hair dyes, 227 Frauke Neuser and Harald Schlatter 31 Permanent hair waving, 236 Annette Schwan-Jonczyk and Gerhard Sendelbach 32 Hair straightening, 248 Harold Bryant, Felicia Dixon, Angela Ellington, and Crystal Porter 33 Hair styling technology and formulations, 256 Thomas Krause, Rene Rust, and Dianna C. Kenneally Section IV: Antiaging, 267 Part One: Cosmeceuticals, 269 34 Botanicals, 269 Carl Thornfeldt 35 Antioxidants and anti-inflammatories, 281 Bryan B. Fuller 36 Peptides and proteins, 292 Karl Lintner 37 Cellular growth factors, 302 Richard E. Fitzpatrick and Rahul C. Mehta 38 Retinoids, 309 Olivier Sorg, Gurkan Kaya, Behrooz Kasraee, and Jean H. Saurat 39 Topical vitamins, 319 Donald L. Bissett 40 Clinical uses of hydroxyacids, 327 Barbara Green, Eugene J. Van Scott, and Ruey Yu 41 The contribution of dietary nutrients and supplements to skin health, 335 Helen Knaggs, Steve Wood, Doug Burke, and Jan Lephart Part Two: Injectable Antiaging Techniques, 342 42 Botulinum toxins, 342 Joel L. Cohen and Scott R. Freeman 43 Hyaluronic acid fillers, 352 Mark S. Nestor 44 Calcium hydroxylapatite for soft tissue augmentation, 356 Stephen Mandy 45 Skin fillers, 361 Neil Sadick, Misbah H. Khan, and Babar K. Rao 46 Polylactic acid fillers, 373 Kenneth R. Beer Part Three: Resurfacing Techniques, 377 47 Superficial chemical peels, 377 M. Amanda Jacobs and Randall Roenigk 48 Medium depth chemical peels, 384 Gary D. Monheit and Jens J. Thiele 49 CO2 laser resurfacing: confluent and fractionated, 393 Mitchel P. Goldman 50 Non-ablative resurfacing, 409 David J. Goldberg and Katie Rossy 51 Microdermabrasion, 418 Pearl Grimes 52 Dermabrasion, 426 Christopher Harmon and Chad Prather Part Four: Skin Modulation Techniques, 432 53 Laser-assisted hair removal, 432 Keyvan Nouri, Voraphol Vejjabhinanta, Nidhi Avashia, and Rawat Charoensawad 54 Radiofrequency devices, 439 Vic Narurkar 55 LED photomodulation for reversal of photoaging and reduction of infl ammation, 444 Robert Weiss, Roy Geronemus, David McDaniel, and Corinne Granger Part Five: Skin Contouring Techniques, 450 56 Liposuction: manual, mechanical, and laser assisted, 450 Emily Tierney and C. William Hanke 57 Liposuction of the neck, 463 Kimberly J. Butterwick 58 Hand recontouring with calcium hydroxylapatite, 473 Kenneth L. Edelson Part Six: Implementation of Cosmetic Dermatology into Therapeutics, 480 59 Antiaging regimens, 480 Karen E. Burke 60 Over-the-counter acne treatments, 488 Emmy M. Graber and Diane Thiboutot 61 Rosacea regimens, 495 Joseph Bikowski 62 Eczema regimens, 502 Zoe D. Draelos 63 Psoriasis regimens, 507 Steven R. Feldman and Lindsay C. Strowd Index, 514