Temples of Luxury

Lise Sanders is Professor of English literature and cultural studies at Hampshire College, MA, USA Dr Susanne Schmid has taught at the universities FU Berlin, Frankfurt am Main, Princeton, Paderborn, Salford and Regensburg

VOLUME II DEPARTMENT STORES

List of Figures xi

Acknowledgments xiii

Introduction: Department Stores: Precursors,

Establishments, Alternatives 1

LISE SHAPIRO SANDERS AND SUSANNE SCHMID

1 Repository of Arts, Literature, Commerce, Manufactures,

Fashions and Politics 9

RUDOLPH ACKERMANN (ED.)

1.1 ‘Harding, Howell, & Co.’s Grand Fashionable

Magazine, No. 89, Pall-Mall’ (1809) 11

1.2 ‘Messrs. Morgan and Sanders’s Ware-Room,

Catherine-Street, Strand’ (1809) 13

2 The Bazaar, Its Origins, Nature, and Objects Explained (1816) 15

JOSEPH NIGHTINGALE

3 Walks Through Bath (1819) 23

PIERCE EGAN

4 A Visit to the Bazaar (1820) 27

5 ‘The Lowther Arcade’ (1832) 35

6 ‘London Shops’ (1834) 41

7 ‘A Short Account of St. John’s Market’ (1835) 47

J. A. P.

8 On the Construction and Decoration of the Shop Fronts

of London (1840) 53

N[ATHANIEL] WHITTOCK

9 ‘The Lady Shopping’ (1841) 63

10 ‘Shops of London’ (1841) 69

11 ‘The Belle of the Burlington Arcade’ (1845) 73

F. O. WARD

12 Selection of Articles From Punch, or The London Charivari 81

12.1 ‘Important to Shopkeepers’ (1844) 83

12.2 ‘Dramatic Shopmen’ (1845) 85

12.3 ‘Geography for Young Ladies’ (1846) 86

12.4 ‘The Shops at Christmas’ (1849) 87

13 The Great Exhibition at the Crystal Palace 91

13.1 ‘History of the Great Exhibition’ (1851) 93

13.2 ‘A Glance at the Exhibition’ (1851) 95

13.3 Charlotte Brontë’s Letters on the Great Exhibition (1908) 102

14 ‘Arcadia’ (1853) 105

[GEORGE AUGUSTUS SALA]

15 ‘Mr. Gye’s Plan for a Glass Street’ (1855) 115

16 ‘London Shops, Old and New’ (1857) 119

CHARLES MANBY SMITH

17 ‘Shawls, and Where They Come From.

Cashmere Goat’ (1858) 127

18 ‘Westbourne Grove, Paddington’ (1860) 137

19 Punch on the International Exhibition 141

19.1 ‘Exhibitors and Their Advertisements’ (1862) 143

19.2 ‘Shopping at the World’s Show’ (1862) 145

20 ‘The Royal Polytechnic, Glasgow, the Grand Centre

of Attraction During the Holidays’ (1864) 147

21 Leisure Hour 151

21.1 ‘Shopping Without Money’ (1865) 153

21.2 ‘Going a Shopping’ (1866) 160

22 The Struggles of Brown, Jones and Robinson:

By One of the Firm (1870) 165

ANTHONY TROLLOPE

23 ‘Lunch with the Linendrapers’ (1872) 177

24 ‘The Arrangement of Departments’ (1874) 183

‘VIDI’

25 Co-operative Stores 191

25.1 ‘The Shopkeepers and the Co-operative Stores’ (1874) 193

25.2 ‘Domestic Puzzles: Where Shall I Buy – Shops

or Stores?’ (1879) 195

MRS. WIGLEY

26 ‘The Philosophy of Shopping’ (1875) 203

[ELIZA LYNN LINTON]

27 Reminiscences of an Old Draper (1876) 209

[WILLIAM H. ABLETT]

28 Warehousemen and Drapers’ Trade Journal 217

28.1 ‘Girls Behind the Counter’ (1876) 219

28.2 ‘Small and Large Shops’ (1876) 221

28.3 ‘Kleptomania’ (1876) 223

29 ‘Afternoon Strolls I: A Japanese Warehouse’ (1876) 225

EDWARD W. GODWIN

30 ‘Girl Labour in London’ (1877) 229

31 City Jackdaw (Manchester) 235

31.1 ‘Manchester Warehousemen and Clerks’ Schools’ (1878) 237

31.2 ‘In the Show-Room. [By a Lady Contributor]’ (1879) 239

32 ‘Leviathan Shops and Stores’ (1881) 241

33 Building News 251

33.1 ‘Shop Fronts’ (1881) 253

J. G. LIBRA

33.2 ‘Shop-Windows: – III’ (1881) 264

J. G. LIBRA

34 ‘ The Ladies’ Paradise ’ (1883) 267

ÉMILE ZOLA

35 A Guide to Window-Dressing: Reprinted from the

Warehousemen and Drapers’ Trade Journal (1883) 275

36 Death and Disease Behind the Counter (1884) 281

THOMAS SUTHERST

37 ‘The Riot in the West-End’ (1886) 289

38 The Manchester Jubilee Exhibition of 1887 297

38.1 ‘The Manchester Jubilee Exhibition. – II. Furniture

and Decoration’ (1887) 299

38.2 ‘The Manchester Jubilee Exhibition. – III. Furniture

and Decoration’ (1887) 304

39 ‘A Little Shopping’ (1892) 309

WILLIAM MORRIS

40 The Odd Women (1893) 317

GEORGE GISSING

41 ‘A Few Facts About the Living-In-System’ (1894) 325

C. R. FENDER

42 The Musical Comedy The Shop Girl (1894–96) 335

42.1 ‘The Royal Stores’ and ‘We’ll Proceed to Search for Ada’

from Th e Shop Girl 337

H. J. W. DAM

42.2 ‘“The Shop Girl”, at the Gaiety Theatre’ (1894) 340

43 ‘The Ethics of Shopping’ (1895) 345

M. JEUNE [LADY JEUNE]

44 The Parisian Diamond Company, New Premises

at 143 Regent Street, Opposite Liberty’s

[Advertisement] (1897) 355

45 Texts by Margaret Bondfi eld 359

45.1 ‘Conditions Under Which Shop Assistants Work’ (1899) 361

45.2 ‘Christmas Shop Slaves’ (1907) 371

46 ‘A Woman’s Shopping’ (1901) 375

R. NEISH

47 ‘A Woman’s Note-Book: How Shopping Affects

Woman – and Man’ (1905) 387

LADY PHYLLIS

48 ‘The Design and Architectural Treatment of the

Shop’ (1913) 391

H. V. LANCHESTER

49 Bainbridge, Newcastle 403

49.1 [Advertisement for the ‘French Room’] (1846) 405

49.2 ‘The Great Northern Exhibition of the Industry

of All Nations’ (1851) 406

49.3 ‘The Early Closing Association: Gathering

of Employes of Albert House’ (1867) 408

49.4 Memoir of Emerson Muschamp Bainbridge

of Newcastle-on-Tyne (1893) 411

THOMAS DARLINGTON (ED.)

50 The Albion Bazaar, Manchester 417

50.1 ‘New Bazaar’ (1831) 419

50.2 ‘Joseph Joyce’ (1831) 420

50.3 ‘Manchester Floral & Horticultural Society’ (1831) 421

50.4 ‘Manchester Floral and Horticultural Society’ (1831) 422

50.5 The Courier (1831) 423

50.6 ‘John, Samuel, and James Watts’ (1832) 424

51 Whiteley’s ‘Universal Provider’, London 425

51.1 ‘William Whiteley’s Establishment in Westbourne-Grove,

Paddington’ (1875) 427

51.2 ‘Topics of the Day by the Heroes of the Hour. No.

X. – My Success in Life. By Mr. W. Whiteley’ (1884) 429

51.3 ‘Why Is Whiteley’s So Often Burned Down?’ (1887) 435

52 Harrod’s, London 439

52.1 Advertisement (1897) 441

52.2 ‘How, When, and Where to Shop: A Day at Harrod’s,

Limited’ (1902) 444

52.3 Opening Stage Description and Two Songs:

‘Act I – Opening Chorus’ and ‘Finale – Act I’ from

Our Miss Gibbs (1909) 448

53 Selfridge’s, London 455

53.1 ‘The Opening of Selfridge’s’ (1909) 457

53.2 ‘Some Departments for Men at Selfridge’s (1909) 460

54 ‘Citizens, Awake! Rising of Militant Women:

Scenes Described by an Eye-Witness’ (1912) 463

Index