Zero Waste Fashion Design

Timo Rissanen is Associate Professor at the University of Technology Sydney, Australia. He is a fashion and textiles researcher with an interest in the interconnection between sustainability and social justice as they relate to the contemporary fashion industry. Holly McQuillan is a doctoral student at the University of Borås, Sweden. Her research articulates zero waste fashion design through exhibition and writing, and focuses on broad issues of sustainability and their links with risky design practice.

Preface

1. Zero Waste Fashion Design from History to Now
Zero Waste over Time
Modern Zero Waste Fashion Design
Interview with Lela Jacobs
Zero Waste Fashion Design in Research
Interview with Maja Stabel
Short Cuts

2. Pattern Cutting as a Fashion Design Tool
Fashion Design and Pattern Cutting
Creative Pattern Cutting
Interview with Winifred Aldrich
Interview with Rickard Lindqvist
Creative Pattern Cutters From Around the World
Patterns in Design Ideation
Short Cuts

3. Zero Waste Fashion Design: The Basics
Criteria for Zero Waste Fashion Design
The Design Ideation Toolbox
Zero Waste Design Methods
Square Cut Garments
Tailored Garments
Draped Garments
Hybrid Practices
Zero Waste Design Systems
Adapting an Existing Design for Zero Waste
Risky Design Practice
Designing with the Fabric Width
Short Cuts

4. Zero Waste Fashion Design and CAD
Marker Making As Design Activity
Interview with Julia Banks (Formerly Lumsden)
Transforming Zero Waste Design Practice
Digital Design Process before 3D Tools
The Usefulness of 3D Software for Zero Waste Fashion Design Practice
Digital 3D Design Workflow for Zero Waste Design Practice.
The Future of Zero Waste Design in a Time of Automation
Digital 2D/3D Design
Note about the Differences between Tools
Digital Tools in Fashion Design Education
Case Study: Zero Waste Workshops
Digital Tools in the Fashion Industry
Case Study: High Price Outdoor Brand: Developing a Digital Prototype of Low Waste Design Using an Existing 2D Pattern
Grading and CAD
Combining Digital Technologies
Digital Tools in Fashion Research
Case Study: Zero + One: Developing a Digitized Analogue Drape Design
Case Study: Using 3D Software to Develop Zero Waste Whole Garment Weaving
Design Workflows
Zero Waste Tutorial for 3D Digital Tools
Making a Make/Use Coat in 3D Software
Things to Consider
Interview With Mylène L'Orguilloux – Milan AV-JC
Short Cuts

5. Manufacturing Zero-Waste Garments
Fashion Design and Fashion Manufacturing
Interview with Mary Beth McDermott
Sizing Zero Waste Garments
Pathway 1: One-Size-Fits-Most
Pathway 2: Conventional Grading
Pathway 3: Designing Each Size
Pathway 4: Mixing Multiple Sizes in a Marker
Pathway 5: Using a Different Fabric Width for Each Size
Pathway 6: A Hybrid Method
Fabric in Manufacturing Zero Waste Garments
Cutting Fabric
Fabric Selvages
Fabric Flaws
Short Cuts

6. Zero Waste Fashion Design: Getting Started
On Inspiration
Interview with Kia Koski
Documenting and Reflecting On Design
On Sharing
Conversation with Yeohlee Teng
Zero Waste Fashion Design in Transitions

Glossary
References
Index
Acknowledgements
Credits