Surface Science and Adhesion in Cosmetics

Kashmiri Lal Mittal was employed by the IBM Corporation from 1972 through 1993. Currently, he is teaching and consulting worldwide in the broad areas of adhesion as well as surface cleaning. He has received numerous awards and honors including the title of doctor honoris causa from Maria Curie-Skłodowska University, Lublin, Poland. He is the editor of more than 130 books dealing with adhesion measurement, adhesion of polymeric coatings, polymer surfaces, adhesive joints, adhesion promoters, thin films, polyimides, surface modification surface cleaning, and surfactants. Dr. Mittal is also the Founding Editor of the journal Reviews of Adhesion and Adhesives. Hy Si Bui obtained his BS degrees in Physics, Mathematics and Polymer Science at the University of Southern Mississippi, MS in Colloids, Polymers & Surfaces, and PhD in Chemistry at Carnegie Mellon University. He was a Coating chemist at Bayer Corporation (Covestro) and was a recipient of the Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award in 2000 for Two-Component Waterborne Polyurethane Coatings. He has been at L’OREAL USA for 16 years and is currently a Sr. Principal Scientist and Sr. L’OREAL Expert in Cosmetic Application Domain. He has contributed to the launch of more than 45 cosmetic products to the market and obtained 108 granted US patents and 70 pre-granted patents.

Preface xxi

Part 1: General Topics 1

1 Lip Biophysical Properties and Characterization Methods for Long-Wear Lipsticks 3
Rebecca Barresi and I-Chien Liao

1.1 Introduction 4

1.2 Overview of Lip Anatomy & Lip Surface Properties 8

1.3 In Vitro Evaluation Methods for Lipsticks 17

1.4 Relation of In Vitro Analysis with Consumer Sensory Testing 25

1.5 Summary 28

2 Effect of Cosmetic Oils on Lipstick Structure and Its Deposit 35
Momoko Suzumeji Shimizu, Yuta Nomura and Hy Si Bui

2.1 Introduction 35

2.2 Types of Natural Waxes, Their Physical Properties and Potential Applications 38

2.3 Factors Affecting Oil-Wax Structures 41

2.4 Study on Model Oil-Wax System Containing Polyethylene Wax 47

2.5 Results and Discussion 50

2.6 Summary 67

3 UV Curing of Nail Gels by Light Emitting Diode (LED) and Fluorescent (FL) Light Sources 73
Michael J. Dvorchak and Melanie L. Clouser

3.1 Introduction 73

3.2 UV Cure Chemistry 74

3.3 UV Cure Light Sources: Gallium-Doped Low-Wattage Long Wavelength Fluorescent (FL) Bulbs and Light Emitting Diodes (LEDs) 76

3.4 UV Cure Oxygen Inhibition Issues 80

3.5 Special Considerations for the Use of UV Nail Gel Technology Due to Oxygen Inhibition 81

3.6 How to Formulate a UV-A Cure Nail Gel 85

3.7 Formulation of UV Nail Gels with 100% Solids UV Cure Oligomers and Monomers 89

3.8 Human Nail Mechanical and Surface Free Energy Properties 92

3.9 Adhesion of UV Nail Gel to the Human Nail Plate 97

3.10 Removal of the UV Nail Gel From the Human Nail Plate 99

3.11 Alternative Uses of UV Cured Nail Gels as a Solution to Remedy Onychomycosis (Toenail Fungus) 99

3.12 UV Cured Nail Gel Safety 103

3.13 Prospects on UV Nail Gels 104

3.14 Summary 105

4 Rheological Properties Influence Tackiness, Application and Performance of Nail Polish/Lacquer Formulations 109
Leidy Nallely Jimenez, Carina D. V. Martínez Narváez, Chenxian Xu, Samantha Bacchi and Vivek Sharma

4.1 Introduction 110

4.2 Typical Ingredients of a Nail Polish Formulation 113

4.3 Rheological Response of Nail Polishes: Background 116

4.4 Methods for Characterizing Flow Behavior and Applicationto Nail Polishes 120

4.5 Materials: Ingredients of the Twelve Nail Polishes 122

4.6 Results and Discussion 123

4.7 Summary and Conclusions 141

5 Use of Advanced Silicone Materials in Long-Lasting Cosmetics 151
Amar B. Pawar and Benjamin Falk

5.1 Introduction 151

5.2 Adhesion to Skin 152

5.3 Formulation Strategies for Long-Lasting Cosmetics 157

5.4 Advanced Silicone Materials for Long-Wear Cosmetics 160

5.5 Summary and Prospective Film-Formers for Long-Wear

Part 2: Surface Science Aspects 183

6 Advances in the Chemical Structure of the Hair Surface, Surface Forces and Interactions 185
Gustavo S. Luengo and Andrew J. Greaves

6.1 Introduction 185

6.2 Structure of Hair and the Outermost Surface 187

6.3 Chemical and Physical Modifications of the Hair Surface 187

6.4 Local Physico-Chemical Understanding of the Hair Surface 197

6.5 Macroscopic Understanding of the Chemical Nature of the Hair Surface 203

6.6 Impact of the Hair Chemical Nature on Sensorial and Consumer Benefits 207

6.7 Prospects 208

6.8 Summary 208

7 AFM for Hair Surface Characterisation 215
Steven Breakspear, Bernd Noecker and Crisan Popescu

7.1 Hair Structure 215

7.2 Elements of AFM 217

7.3 The Use of AFM to Characterize the Hair Surface/Cuticle 227

7.4 Cosmetic Treatment (e.g. Bleaching) as Shown by AFM 237

7.5 Summary 240

8 Atomic Force Microscopy (AFM) as a Surface Characterization Tool for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetic Deposition 245
Norbert Biderman and Hy Si Bui

8.1 Introduction 245

8.2 Atomic Force Microscopy Compared to Other Microscopy Techniques 246

8.3 The Principles of Atomic Force Microscopy 247

8.4 A Brief History of Hair Surface Investigation via Atomic Force Microscopy 249

8.5 Lateral Force Microscopy (LFM) of the Hair Surface 249

8.6 Adhesion at the Nanoscale via AFM 251

8.7 Elastic Modulus Measurement via AFM 254

8.8 Hair Studies via AFM 256

8.8.1 Nanomechanical Properties of the Hair Surface 256

8.9 Skin Studies via AFM 265

8.10 Summary and Prospects 274

9 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry as a Surface Analysis Method for Hair, Skin, and Cosmetics 279
Norbert Biderman

9.1 Introduction 279

9.2 Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (SIMS) 280

9.3 Studying the Skin via TOF-SIMS 290

9.4 Studying the Hair Via TOF-SIMS 295

9.5 Future Prospects 305

Part 3: Wetting and Adhesion Aspects 309

10 Surface Tensiometry Approach to Characterize Cosmetic Products in the Beauty Sector 311
Davide Rossi and Nicola Realdon

10.1 Introduction 312

10.2 Peels 313

10.3 Face Masks 316

10.4 Serums 325

10.5 Eye Contour Creams 327

10.6 Mascara 329

10.7 Eyeshadows 334

10.8 Lipsticks 336

10.9 Foundation 339

10.10 Anti-Aging Formulations 340

10.11 Summary 348

11 Spreading of Hairsprays on Hair 353
Yashavanth Kamath and Xuemin Chen

11.1 Introduction 353

11.2 Background on Interaction of Liquid Droplets with Fibers 354

11.3 Materials and Experimental Methods 359

11.4 Results and Discussion 361

11.5 General Observations on the Behavior of Holding Spray on Hair 370

11.6 Shine Spray on One Bleached Hair Fiber 373

11.7 Summary 375

12 Quantification of the Color Transfer from Long-Wear Face Foundation Products: The Relevance of Wettability 379
Joseph V. Badami and Hy Si Bui

12.1 Introduction 380

12.2 Experiments 381

12.3 Results and Discussion 384

12.4 Summary and Perspectives 396

13 Interaction of Polyelectrolytes and Surfactants on Hair Surfaces. Deposits and their Characterization 401
Gustavo S. Luengo, Eduardo Guzman, Laura Fernández-Peña, Fabien Leonforte, Francisco Ortega and Ramon G. Rubio

13.1 Introduction 402

13.2 Hair Structure and Its External Surface 403

13.3 Experimental Approaches for the Evaluation of the Deposition of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Systems onto Model Surfaces 413

13.4 Theoretical Modelling of Polyelectrolyte-Surfactant Mixtures 430

13.5 Prospects 441

13.6 Summary 441

14 Adhesion Aspect and Film-Forming Properties of Hydrocarbon Polymers-Based Lipsticks 451
Julien Portal, Xavier Schultze, Simon Taupin, Mireille Arnaud-Roux, Jerome Bonnard, Gregoire Naudin, Marc Hely, Hy Bui and Norbert Biderman

14.1 Introduction 452

14.2 Synthesis and Characterization of the Model Oil Compatible Polymers Dispersions 456

14.3 NADs as Film-Formers for Long-Wear, Non-Transfer Lipstick 476

14.4 Summary and Prospects 480

15 Factors Enhancing Adhesion of Color Cosmetic Products to Skin: The Role of Pigments and Fillers 487
Hubert Lam

15.1 Introduction 488

15.2 Overview of Pigments: Basic Physicochemical Considerations in Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 488

15.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Long-Wear Color Cosmetics 510

15.4 Summary and Prospects 534

16 Factors Affecting Cosmetics Adhesion to Facial Skin 543
Zhi Li and Hy Si Bui

16.1 Introduction 543

16.2 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Skin Substrate Properties 544

16.3 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Formulation Components 549

16.4 Factors Affecting Adhesion to Skin: Combination of Film-Formers and Emulsifiers 573

16.5 Summary and Prospects 580

17 Adhesion Aspect in Semi-Permanent Mascara 585
Christopher Pang and Hy Si Bui

17.1 Introduction 585

17.2 Structure of Eyelash and Eye Lid: An Overview 587

17.3 Types of Mascaras 589

17.4 Components in Mascara Formulations 593

17.5 Long-Wear Mascaras 596

17.6 Evaluation Methods for Long-Wear Mascara 598

17.7 Factors Affecting Adhesion of Mascara on an Eyelash 604

17.8 Removability of Mascara 624

17.9 Summary and Prospects 628

18 Lipstick Adhesion Measurement 635
Caroline Richard

18.1 Introduction 635

18.2 Definition of Adhesion 641

18.3 Sensory Metrology: Subjective Methods 643

18.4 Mechanical Tests: Objective Methods 649

18.5 Correlation Between Sensory and Instrumental Tests 656

18.6 Summary 659

Acknowledgments 659

References 659

Index 663