Cosmetic Creams

Wilfried Rähse, PhD, was director of process development at Henkel AG & Co. KGaA, Düsseldorf, Germany. He worked for 30 years at Henkel, especially in product development, but also in production and environmental technology. After a brief retirement, he joined a cosmetic start-up company (Cosmeceuticals) as a partner for product development.

Preface

GENERAL AND LEGAL ASPECTS OF COSMETICS
Short Look at the History of Cosmetics
Definition of Cosmetics
Legal Regulations of Cosmetics in Europe
Label Lettering and Trademark
Mandatory Registration of Cosmetic Products
Databases for Ingredients
Regulations in the USA
Regulations of the Cosmetics Markets in Asia
Delimitation of Cosmetic Products
Leanings

ECONOMIC IMPORTANCE OF COSMETICS
Cosmetics Market and Distribution Channels in Germany
Shopping on the Internet in Germany
European Cosmetics Markets
Cosmetics Market in USA
Cosmetics Market and Distribution Channels in Japan
Chinese Cosmetics Market
World Division in Market Regions
Global Cosmetics Market Size
Trends for Future Development
Largest Cosmetics Manufacturers Worldwide
TOP 5 Manufacturers
Leanings

COST STRUCTURE OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS AND THEIR MANUFACTURERS
Rough Calculation of the Costs
Detailed Calculation of the Manufacturing Costs
Costs in the Companies
Figures from the Published Annual Reports
Methods for Pricing
Leanings

SCIENTIFIC DESCRIPTIONS OF THE SKIN
Tasks of the Skin
Structure of the Skin
Concepts for Penetration of the Stratum Corneum
Some Experiments on the Penetration of Lipophilic Substances
Penetration of Agents into the Skin
Gender Differences in the Structure of the Skin
Learnings

COMPOSITION OF CREAMS FOR SKIN CARE
General Structure of a Skin Care Cream
Modules of a Cream
Excipients
Additives for color and fragrance
Aids such as Liposomes for the Introduction of Substances into the Skin
Learnings

PROVEN ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR VARIOUS CATEGORIES OF SKIN CREAMS
Skin Care
Cream Categories for Skin Care
Moisturizers
Vitamins as Vital Substances
Nourishing Vegetable Oils for Smoothing the Skin
Active Ingredients for Anti-Aging Creams
Essential Oils
Extracts from Plant Parts
Active Ingredients from the Sea
Origin of the Active Ingredients
Learnings

ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR SPECIAL PRODUCTS
Definition of Special Creams
Anti-Acne Creams for Blemished Skin
After Sun Creams and Lotions for Reddened Skin
Creams for Baby's Skin
Prophylaxis at Risk of Pressure Ulcers (Bedsore)
Improving the Appearance of the Skin in Case of Cellulite
Chemical Removal of Unwanted Hair (Depilatory Cream)
Treatment of Eczema
Cream for the Feet and against Athlete's Foot
Cream for Hands
Anti-Herpes Cream
Cream for Removing Thick Horny Layers (Callus)
Lotions for Body Care
Cream for Itchy Shins
Self-Tanning Cream
Sunscreens (UV Protection)
Comment on Cosmeceuticals
Learnings

PROPOSALS FOR THE FORMULATION OF CREAMS
General Remarks
Moisturizers
Vitalizing Creams
Creams with Smoothing Properties
Anti-Aging Creams
Acne Creams
After Sun Creams / Lotions
Baby Cream
Bedsore Cream
Cellulite Cream
Foot Care Cream against Athlete's Foot
Hand Cream
Callus Removal Cream
Body Lotion
Eye Area Formulation with Sun Protection
Sunscreen Lotion

PERFUMES IN COSMETICS
Importance of the Perfume for Cosmetic Creams
History of Perfume Oils
Perfume Composition and Markets
Extraction of Fragrances from Plants
Chemical Composition of Natural Fragrances
Possibilities in Product Design of Perfume Oils
Personal Care and Other Products
Safety
Learnings

PRODUCTION OF COSMETIC CREAMS
Method
Stirring and Homogenizing Tools
Laboratory Equipment and Pilot Plant
Batch Production
Continuous Production
Scale-Up
Mini-Emulsions
Bottles and Filling Lines
Learnings

REGULATIONS AND GUIDELINES FOR THE EXECUTION OF HYGIENIC PRODUCTIONS
Good Manufacturing Practice Rules for the Manufacture of Cosmetics
EHEDG- Guidelines for the Construction of the Facility
Materials for the Equipment of Cosmetic Plants
Cleaning-In-Place
Learnings

ASSESSMENT OF THE QUALITY OF COSMETIC CREAMS
Options for Quality Evaluation
Microbial Checks
Specifying the Quality of Cosmetic Creams by Physical Measurements
Example of a Cream Test by Customers
Learnings

PRODUCT INFORMATION FILE (P.I.F.)
Provisions of the Cosmetics Regulation
Requirements for the Product Safety Report according to the Cosmetics Regulation
Safety Data Sheet
Structure of the P.I.F.
Example for a P.I.F. (Body Lotion)
Learnings

Annexes
Index