Umami (eBook)

Unlocking the Secrets of the Fifth Taste
eBook Download: PDF | EPUB
2014
Columbia University Press (Verlag)
978-0-231-53758-2 (ISBN)

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Umami -  Ole Mouritsen,  Klavs Styrbaek
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Ole G. Mouritsen is a distinguished scientist and professor of biophysics at the University of Southern Denmark. His books include Sushi: Food for the Eye, the Body, and the Soul and Seaweeds: Edible, Available, and Sustainable.
Klavs Styrbæk is a chef who, for more than twenty years, has owned and run the highly regarded Restaurant Kvægtorvet (The Cattle Market) in Odense, Denmark. He is a passionate advocate for the renewal of classical Danish cuisine.
Mariela Johansen has Danish roots, lives in Canada, and holds an MA in humanities.
Jonas Drotner Mouritsen is a graphic designer and owns the design company Chromascope (www.chromascope.com). His movie projects have won several international awards.
In the West, we have identified only four basic tastes-sour, sweet, salty, and bitter-that, through skillful combination and technique, create delicious foods. Yet in many parts of East Asia over the past century, an additional flavor has entered the culinary lexicon: umami, a fifth taste impression that is savory, complex, and wholly distinct.Combining culinary history with recent research into the chemistry, preparation, nutrition, and culture of food, Mouritsen and Styrbaek encapsulate what we know to date about the concept of umami, from ancient times to today. Umami can be found in soup stocks, meat dishes, air-dried ham, shellfish, aged cheeses, mushrooms, and ripe tomatoes, and it can enhance other taste substances to produce a transformative gustatory experience. Researchers have also discovered which substances in foodstuffs bring out umami, a breakthrough that allows any casual cook to prepare delicious and more nutritious meals with less fat, salt, and sugar. The implications of harnessing umami are both sensuous and social, enabling us to become more intimate with the subtleties of human taste while making better food choices for ourselves and our families. This volume, the product of an ongoing collaboration between a chef and a scientist, won the Danish national Mad+Medier-Prisen (Food and Media Award) in the category of academic food communication.

Ole G. Mouritsen is a distinguished scientist and professor of biophysics at the University of Southern Denmark. His books include Sushi: Food for the Eye, the Body, and the Soul and Seaweeds: Edible, Available, and Sustainable.Klavs Styrbæk is a chef who, for more than twenty years, has owned and run the highly regarded Restaurant Kvægtorvet (The Cattle Market) in Odense, Denmark. He is a passionate advocate for the renewal of classical Danish cuisine.Mariela Johansen has Danish roots, lives in Canada, and holds an MA in humanities.Jonas Drotner Mouritsen is a graphic designer and owns the design company Chromascope (www.chromascope.com). His movie projects have won several international awards.

AcknowledgmentsPrologue: How it all beganWhat exactly is taste, and why is it important?The basic tastes: From seven to four to five and possibly many moreWhy do we need to be able to taste our food?There is more to it: Sensory science, taste, smell, aroma, flavor, mouthfeel, texture, and chemesthesisIs there a taste map of the tongue?Why are some foods more palatable than others?A few words about proteins, amino acids, nucleotides, nucleic acids, and enzymesGlutamic acid, glutamate, and the glutamate ionGlutamic acid and glutamate in our foodHow does glutamate taste, and how little is required for us to taste it?The first four: Sour, sweet, salty, and bitterThe physiology and biochemistry of tasteThe interplay between sweet and bitterTaste receptors: This is how they workWhen words fail us: Descriptions of tastesThe fifth taste: What is umami?Science, soup, and the search for the fifth tasteGlutamic acid and glutamateWhat is the meaning of the word umami?From laboratory to mass productionHow MSG is madeA little letter with a huge impact: The 'Chinese restaurant syndrome'The Japanese discover other umami substancesIt all starts with mother's milkUmami as a global presenceUmami has won acceptance as a distinct tasteAnd umami is still controversial1 + 1 = 8: Gustatory synergyAmazing interplay: Basal and synergistic umamiDetecting umami synergy on the tongue and in the brainJapanese dashi: The textbook example of umami synergyThe art of making Japanese dashiNordic dashi Dashi closer to home—a Japanese soup with a Scandinavian twistSeaweeds enhance the umami in fishHow to make smoked shrimp headsMany substances interact synergistically with umamiA breakthrough discovery of yet another synergistic substanceThe interplay between glutamate and the four classic tastesA simple taste test: Umami vs. saltUmami-rich 'foie gras from the sea'Food pairing and umamiCreating tastes syntheticallyUmami: Either as little or as much as you likeUmami from the oceans: Seaweeds, fish, and shellfishSeaweeds and konbu: The mother lode of umamiA world of konbu in JapanFresh fish and shellfishCooked fish and shellfish dishes and soupsUmami and the art of killing a fishA traditional clambake: New England method, Danish ingredientsEveryday umami in ancient Greece and RomeFish sauces and fish pastesModern garumShellfish pasteOyster sauceSushi and fermented fishKatsuobushiCatching katsuo to optimize umamiNiboshiThe hardest foodstuff in the worldKusayaNordic variations: Horrible smells and heavenly tastesFish roeSeven friends, The Compleat Angler, and a pikeUmami from the land: Fungi and plantsUmami from the plant kingdomDried fungiFermented soybeansSoy sauceProduction of shōyuMisoProduction of misoThe Asian answer to cheese: Fermented soybean cakesNattōBlack garlicShōjin ryōri: An old tradition with a modern presenceThe enlightened kitchenTomatoesGreen teaUmami from land animals: Meat, eggs, and dairy productsThe animal kingdom delivers umami in spadesHomo sapiens is a cookPreserving meats in the traditional waysAir-dried hamsSalted beef: Pastrami and corned beefBacon and sausagesDairy productsBlue cheesesAged, dried, and hard cheesesEggs and mayonnaiseHarry's crème from Harry's BarUmami: The secret behind the humble soup stockSoup is umamiOsmazome and The Physiology of TasteAmino acids in soup stocksA real find: A dashi barThe taste of a beef stockReady-made umamiKnorr and Maggi: European umami pioneersMaking the most of umamiMSG as a food additiveOther commercial sources of umamiHydrolyzed proteinUmami in a jarYeast extractNutritional yeastMore sources of umami for vegansKetchupBagna càudaWorcestershire sauceUmami in a tubeTwelve easy ways to add umamiQuintessentially Danish: Brown gravy, medisterpølse, and beef pattiesSlow cooking: The secret of more umamiRatatouille and brandadeThis is why fast food tastes so goodGreen salads and raw vegetablesUmami in dishes made with small fowlCooked potatoes: Nothing could be simplerRice and sakeBeerUmami in sweetsMirin is a sweet rice wine with umamiUmami and wellnessUmami and MSG: Food without 'chemicals'Umami satisfies the appetiteWhy does umami make us feel full? The 'brain' in the stomachUmami for a sick and aging populationUmami for lifeEpilogue: Umami has come to stayTechnical and scientific detailsUmami and the first glutamate receptorYet another receptor for umamiUmami synergyThe taste of amino acidsTaste thresholds for umamiContent of glutamate and 5'-ribonucleotides in different foodsBibliographyIllustration credits GlossaryIndexThe people behind the bookRecipesPotato water dashi with smoked shrimp headsMonkfish liver au gratin with crabmeat and vegetablesPearled spelt, beets, and lobsterCrab soupClambake in a potPatina de pisciculisGarumQuick-and-easy garumSmoked quick-and-easy garumSeriously old-fashioned sourdough rye breadAnchovies, grilled onions, sourdough bread, pata negra ham, and mushroomsDeep-fried eggplants with miso (nasu dengaku)White asparagus in miso with oysters, cucumber oil, and small fishGrilled shōjin kabayaki: 'fried eel' made from lotus rootBaked monkfish liver with raspberries and peanutsSlow-roasted sauce with tomatoes, root vegetables, and herbsFried mullet with baked grape tomatoes, marinated sago pearls, and black garlicMushrooms, foie gras, and mushroom essenceParmesan biscuits with bacon and yeast flakesHarry's crèmeChicken bouillonGreen pea soup with scallops and seaweedDressing with nutritional yeastEggplant gratinée with garlic, anchovies, and nutritional yeastOysters au gratin with a crust of nutritional yeast and smoked shrimp head powderBagna càudaOld-fashioned Danish medisterpølseBeef patties, Danish styleChicken MarengoCassouletBeef estofadoSicilian ratatouilleBrandade with air-dried ham and green peasThree-day pizza with umami—not really a 'fast food'Quail pâtéRisottoOxtails braised in wheat beerUmami sorbet with maccha and tomatoWhite chocolate cream, black sesame seeds, Roquefort, and brioche with nutritional yeast

Erscheint lt. Verlag 3.6.2014
Reihe/Serie Arts and Traditions of the Table: Perspectives on Culinary History
Illustrationen Jonas Drotner Mouritsen
Übersetzer Mariela Johansen
Zusatzinfo 84 color illustrations
Verlagsort New York
Sprache englisch
Themenwelt Sachbuch/Ratgeber Essen / Trinken Themenkochbücher
Naturwissenschaften Chemie
Sozialwissenschaften
Technik Lebensmitteltechnologie
ISBN-10 0-231-53758-1 / 0231537581
ISBN-13 978-0-231-53758-2 / 9780231537582
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