Fashion, Identity, Image

Paul Jobling is the author of Fashion Spreads (Berg, 1999), Man Appeal (Berg, 2005) and Advertising Menswear (Bloomsbury, 2014). He was Visiting Professor between 2018 and 2020 for the MA Fashion Studies at The New School, Parsons Paris, France. Philippa Nesbitt graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. Her MA thesis explores the emergence and impact of gender non-conformativity in global fashion modelling and media. She is currently digital curator for Revue magazine. Angelene Wong graduated from the MA Fashion Studies, The New School, Parsons Paris. She is a doctoral student at School of Art, Design and Media at Nanyang Technological University, Singapore, and a dance artist. Her doctoral thesis focusses on body politics at the intersection of fashion media, dance, and digitalisation.

List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements
Introduction

1. Authoring Fashion, Intersecting Sex and Gender
Introduction
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-Shirt for Christian Dior: Branding, identity and authorship
Between the womb and the gay parade: Alexander McQueen’s ‘The Widows of Culloden’ as poetic text
Subverting the symbolic order: McQueen’s abject woman
Conclusion: Squaring up to the phallic mother
Notes

2. Written on the body: Fashion, clothing and age
Introduction
‘Active ageing’, youthfulness and fashion
‘Fashion For All Ages’ and the new old model army
Race and reversing convention
Conclusion: From idiotic methods to the realities of time and place
Notes

3. (Un)Gendering the runway
Introduction
Forerunners of transgender and non-binary identities in fashion
The advent of transgendered models
The abject trans-model
Between abjection and acceptance
‘Come into the (trans)garden’: The heterotopia of fashion
The authentic self
Other models: Intersectionality and wider diversity in the fashion industry
Tokenism versus activism
Conclusion: Between tokenism and authenticity
Notes

4. Loving the alien: Fashion and cyborg identities
Introduction
Andrea Giacobbe and ‘Simplex Concordia’
Alessandro Michele and the Gucci Cyborg
Compromising race and diversity
A ‘genuine cyborg manifesto’?
Conclusion: Towards emancipatory possibilities
Notes

Epilogue