The Fashion Reader
Bloomsbury Visual Arts (Verlag)
978-1-350-11866-9 (ISBN)
Many of the essays are drawn from books, journals, magazines, and exhibition catalogues, bringing together new and established concepts to offer a solid grounding in the history, business and culture of fashion. Fourteen of the chapters were written expressly for this edition. For added context, each of the fifteen parts has an introduction from the editors, guiding you through the interdisciplinary world of fashion studies, and each part concludes with suggestions for further reading.
This third edition has been substantially revised to highlight issues of sustainability, identity, the body, as well as global perspectives from “The Commodification of Ethnicity” to “The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing.”
Linda Welters is Professor of Textiles, Fashion Merchandising and Design at the University of Rhode Island, USA. She is the editor of the Bloomsbury series “Textiles That Changed the World.” Abby Lillethun is Professor and Chair of the Department of Art and Design at Montclair State University, USA. She co-authored Fashion History: A Global View (2018) with Linda Welters.
Introduction — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun
Part I: A Brief History of Fashion
Introduction — Linda Welters
1. From Prehistory through Byzantium — Abby Lillethun
2. Europe to 1700 — Linda Welters
3. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700–1790 — Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell
4. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790–1860 — Susan North
5. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860–1910 — Cynthia Cooper
6. The Modern Era: 1910–1960 — Tiffany Webber
7. The Postmodern Age: 1960–2020 — José Blanco F.
8. Fashion Outside the West — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I
Part II: Fashion Theory
Introduction — Abby Lillethun
9. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture — Thorstein Veblen
10. The Habitus and the Space of Life-Styles — Pierre Bourdieu
11. The Fashion System — Grant McCracken
12. The Dressed Body — Joanne Entwistle
13. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory — Sandra Niessen
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II
Part III: Psychology of Fashion
Introduction — Abby Lillethun
14. The Fundamental Motives — J. C. Flugel
15. Blue or Pink? That is the Question: Homophobia and Its Influence on the Gendering of Colour Symbolism — Eun Jung Kang
16. Shopping for Fashion — Carolyn Mair
17. Lacan and Fashion — Alison Bancroft
18. Spirited Individuality: Halloween — Pravina Shukla
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III
Part IV: Fashion and Identity
Introduction — Abby Lillethun
19. Dress and Identity — Mary Ellen Roach-Higgins and Joanne Eicher
20. All Out in the Wash: Convict Stain Removal in the Narryana Heritage Museum’s Dress Collection — Jennifer Clynk and Sharon Peoples
21. Subculture: The Unnatural Break — Dick Hebdige
22. 1980s and Beyond: Queering Fashion — Susan B. Kaiser
23. Islamic Fashion and the Global Islamic Revival Movement — Annalies Moors and Emma Tarlo
24. The Commodification of Ethnicity: Vlisco Fabrics and Wax Cloth Fashion in Ghana — Christine Delhaye and Rhoda Woets
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV
Part V: Fashion: Space and Place
Introduction — Linda Welters
25. Fashion in Peripheral Places: The New Zealand Story — Sally Weller
26. Travelling the Street Style Blogosphere: Amateur Photography — Brent Luvaas
27. Flagship Stores: Scaling Fashion’s Luxury Spaces — Louise Crewe
28. Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire — Wilbur Zelinsky
29. Nailed It: Producing and Consuming in Tokyo’s Nail Industry — Rebecca Scofield
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V
Part VI: Politics of Fashion
Introduction — Abby Lillethun
30. Fashioning the Colonial Subject — Barbara L. Voss
31. Khartoum at Night — Marie Grace Brown
32. The Soul Wide World: The “Afro Look” in South Africa from the 1970s to the New Millennium — Tanisha C. Ford
33. How White Became the Color of Suffrage — Einav Rabinovitch-Fox
34. Worker Rights, Factory Inspection, and Fashion — Richard McIntyre
35. Trade Policies and the Textiles and Apparel Industries — Arthur C. Mead
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI
Part VII: Fashion and the Body
Introduction — Abby Lillethun
36. The Cultural Heritage of Tattooing: A Brief History — Lars Krutak
37. Consumptive Corsetry and Romantic Fashion — Carolyn A. Day
38. Outcomes of Plastic Surgery — Charlotte N. Markey and Patrick M. Markey
39. Hair and Human Identity — Sarah Cheang and Geraldine Biddle-Perry
40. Disciplining Corpulence: The Case of Plus-Size Fashion Models — Amanda M. Czerniawaski
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII
Part VIII: Fashion and Art
Introduction — Linda Welters
41. Fashion — Valerie Steele
42. Putting Artwear in Context — Melissa Leventon
43. Curating Chanel — Nick Rees-Roberts
44. One Work: Elsa Schiaparelli & Salvador Dalí: The Tears Dress (1938) — Ella Plevin
45. Dynamic Static — Nicole Archer
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII
Part IX: Fashion, Media and Communication
Introduction — Linda Welters
46. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis — Kathleen Craughwell-Varda
47. Film Stars as Fashion Icons — Pamela Church Gibson
48. Style Narratives: Sixties in the Twenty-First Century — Heike Jenss
49. The Celebrity as Designer of His/Her Own Fashion Brand — Marta Martina and Silvia Vacirca
50. A Global Discourse: The New Millennium — Kate Nelson Best
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX
Part X: From Haute Couture to the Street
Introduction — Linda Welters
51. The Dressmaking World — Thérèse Bonney and Louise Bonney
52. A New House, a New Femininity — Alexandra Palmer
53. Trickle Down, Bubble Up — Ted Polhemus
54. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood — Sonnet Stanfill
55. Connoisseurs of Trash in a World Full of It — Jennifer Le Zotte
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X
Part XI: Design and Manufacture
Introduction — Linda Welters
56. The Future of Fashion Forecasting — Regina Lee Blasczyk and Ben Wubs
57. Hedi Slimane and the Reinvention of Menswear — Jay McCauley Bowstead
58. At Work in the Vintage Archive — Jennifer Ayres
59. Luxury Indian Fashion — Tereza Kuldova
60. The Sweatshop, Child Labor, and Exploitation Issues in the Garment Industry — Liat Smestad
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI
Part XII: Marketing and Merchandising
Introduction — Linda Welters
61. Spectacle — Ginger Gregg Duggan
62. Surprise Ambush: The Unexpected and Unscheduled — Nilgin Yusuf
63. The A&F Brand/Story — Anne-Peirson-Smith and Joseph H. Hancock II
64. Disruptive Business Model Innovations in the Fashion Retail Industry — Byoungho Ellie Jin and Daeun Chloe Shin
65. What Is the Future of the Fashion Show? — Steff Yotka
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XII
Part XIII: The Fashion Business and Global Economics
Introduction — Abby Lillethun
66. Made in ____ — Arthur C. Mead
67. Zara: The Business Model for Fast Fashion — Teresa M. McCarthy Byrne
68. Contemporary South Asian Youth Cultures and the Fashion Landscape — Lipi Begum and Rohit K. Dasgupta
69. Moroccan Fashion and Economics — M. Angela Jansen
70. Used Clothing Markets in the Global South — Andrew Brooks
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIII
Part XIV: Sustainability and Fashion
Introduction — Linda Welters
71. Textile Production — Leslie Davis Burns
72. The Filippa K Story — Kerli Kant Hvass
73. Sustainability in Textiles and Fashion: How Far Have We Come Since 2000? — Martin Bide
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIV
Part XV: Future of Fashion
Introduction — Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun
74. Amazon Has Developed an AI Fashion Designer — Will Knight
75. Sewing Up a Storm: How Robots and Other New Technologies are Shaping a New Era of Manufacturing — Kilara Le
76. Forecasting Fashion’s Future — Abby Lillethun and Linda Welters
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XV
Bibliography
Index
Erscheinungsdatum | 03.12.2021 |
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Zusatzinfo | 100 bw illus |
Verlagsort | London |
Sprache | englisch |
Maße | 189 x 246 mm |
Gewicht | 1392 g |
Themenwelt | Kunst / Musik / Theater ► Design / Innenarchitektur / Mode |
Kunst / Musik / Theater ► Kunstgeschichte / Kunststile | |
Sozialwissenschaften | |
ISBN-10 | 1-350-11866-4 / 1350118664 |
ISBN-13 | 978-1-350-11866-9 / 9781350118669 |
Zustand | Neuware |
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