The Erotic Cloth

Lesley Millar is Professor of Textile Culture and Director of The International Textile Research Center at the University for the Creative Arts, UK. Alice Kettle is Professor of Textile Arts at Manchester Metropolitan University, UK and Visiting Professor at the Center for Real World Learning, University of Winchester, UK.

List of contributors
List of illustrations
Foreword, Mary Schoeser
Acknowledgements

An introduction to The Erotic Cloth
Prof. Lesley Millar and Prof. Alice Kettle

I. The representation of cloth
1. Folds, scissors and cleavage in Giovanni Battista Moroni’s Il Tagliapanni
Angela Maddock
2. A perverted taste: Italian depictions of cloth and puberty in mid-nineteenth-century marble
Dr Claire Jones
3. Stitching up: embroidering the sex life of a fetishist image-maker
Dr Nigel Hurlstone

II. Making and remaking the cloth
4. The rustle of taffeta – the value of hapticity in research and reconstruction of an eighteenth-century Sack-back dress
Debra Roberts
5. The embroiderer's jouissance: stitching a feminine identity in an environment of mining machismo
Ruth Hingston
6. Flying in the face of fashion; how through punk, fetish and sexually orientated clothing made it into the mainstream
Prof. Malcolm Garrett in conversation with Prof. Alice Kettle

III. The alternative cloth
7. Present or absent shirts: creation of a lexicon of erotic intimacy and masculine mourning
Prof. Catherine Harper
8. Empowering the Replicant: visual and haptic narratives in Blade Runner
Caroline Wintersgill and Dr Savithri Bartlett
9. Caressing cloth: the warp and weft as site of exchange
Dr Catherine Dormor

IV. The performing cloth
10. Curvatures of cloth: William Hogarth’s Line of Beauty and ‘The heart of true eroticism’ in serpentine dance
Dr Georgina Williams
11. The echoes of erotic cloth in film
Liz Rideal
12. UN/DRESS
Masako Matsushita in conversation with Prof. Lesley Millar

Afterword: Erotic cloth – the case of kimono
Yuko Ikeda