Surf Science
Alison Hodge (Verlag)
978-0-906720-36-3 (ISBN)
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Surf Science is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf. Where do waves come from? What makes every one different? Why do some peel nicely and others just close out? Why, some days, do waves come in sets of six, and others in sets of three? What factors affect the behaviour of a surfing break? Surf Science answers all these questions and many more. It is the first book to talk in depth about the science of waves from a surfer's point of view. It fills the gap between surfing books and waves textbooks, and will help surfers to predict surf.
Dr Tony Butt is a big wave specialist based in the Basque Country, and Post Doctoral Research Fellow at the University of Plymouth, UK. He is a regular contributor to European surfing magazines, and runs a wave prediction website. Dr Paul Russell was twice European Surfing Champion and is now Reader in Coastal Dynamics at the School of Earth, Ocean and Environmental Sciences, University of Plymouth. Richard (Rick) Grigg pioneered big-wave surfing on the North Shore of O'ahu, Hawaii, and is now Professor of Oceanography at the University of Hawaii.
Preface 1 The Paradox of Impossible Knowledge 2 Large-Scale Weather Patterns 3 The Formation of a Depression 4 The Growth of Waves on the Ocean 5 Propagation of Free-Travelling Swell 6 Refraction 7 Wave-Breaking 8 How Waves Move Sediment 9 Surfing in the Storm 10 Local Winds on the Coast 11 The Temperature of the Water 12 The Tides 13 World Wave Climate 14 Forecasting the Waves Further Reading Glossary-Index Acknowledgements
| Zusatzinfo | 30 illustrations, 54 figures, 5 tables, 7 graphs, 13 charts |
|---|---|
| Verlagsort | Cornwall |
| Sprache | englisch |
| Maße | 189 x 246 mm |
| Themenwelt | Sachbuch/Ratgeber ► Sport ► Segeln / Tauchen / Wassersport |
| ISBN-10 | 0-906720-36-2 / 0906720362 |
| ISBN-13 | 978-0-906720-36-3 / 9780906720363 |
| Zustand | Neuware |
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