Patchwork Knitting (eBook)

CHAPTER 1

Squares

The square is the most commonly used unit in patchwork/domino knitting, particularly the single mitred square. The technique can also be used to make double, triple and even quadruple squares, and there are a number of ways of making even the basic single square.

For the piece of knitting to be square it needs to be worked in a stitch pattern that has a ratio of two rows to one stitch – that is, two rows measures the same as one stitch. Mitred squares are generally worked in garter stitch. They can be worked in any pattern, but if worked in a stitch pattern that does not include garter stitch – that is, stocking stitch or a ribbed stitch pattern – the finished piece will not be a square shape.

CAST-ON

A good cast-on for patchwork knitting is the knit cast-on since it has a lot of flexibility. Many knitters do not like this cast-on as typically it gives a loopy edge; however, in patchwork knitting this is very useful as the loops make it very easy to pick up stitches if you want to knit another square working away from the cast-on edge.

The knit cast-on is a two-needle cast-on and is worked as follows:

Step 1: Place a slip knot on the left needle.

Step 2: *Put the right needle into the stitch on the left needle, take the yarn round the needle point to make a new stitch, pull the new loop through and twist it on to the left needle point.*

Step 3: Repeat from * to * for the required number of stitches.

DECREASES

In order to produce a square, the stitches cast on need to be reduced at a rate of either one stitch per row, or two stitches every two rows. Working a double decrease creates a more pronounced mitre. There are a number of methods of working a double decrease: k3tog (a right-leaning double decrease), sk2po (a left-leaning double decrease), or s2kpo/CDD (a centre double decrease).

An alternative to working double decreases is to work two single decreases at the centre on every other row, or to work one single decrease at the centre of the piece every row.

Later in this chapter there will be examples and detailed instructions of how to make squares with all these different decreases.

SELVEDGES

The squares can be knitted without working a selvedge. However, with patchwork knitting a new square is often knitted on to an existing square by knitting-up stitches from the edge of the existing square, so knitting squares with a chain selvedge makes it easier to knit-up the correct number of stitches from the edge for the next square.

One stitch equals two rows of knitting. If you work a chain selvedge, one chain stretches over two rows, so when knitting-up stitches you can knit-up one stitch for every chain for the new square. There are a number of ways to work a chain selvedge.

Whichever method you use to make a chain selvedge, it is important to have clearly visible chain stitches at the edges of your knitting. Most of the samples in this book have been worked with the method used in the Schulz books.

THE SINGLE MITRED SQUARE: THE SCHULZ METHOD

The Schulz method casts on an even number of stitches. The cast-on or stitch knit-up is counted as Row 1. Row 2, a wrong-side row, is also the first decrease row, which is a single decrease, k2tog, to give an odd number of stitches for the remainder of the square. All the remaining decreases are k3tog (or p3tog) on wrong-side rows.

The chain selvedge starts with k1tbl, work to the last stitch, sl1 with the yarn at the front.

If you are working a knit row, before slipping the last stitch bring the yarn between the needles to the front, and then slip the stitch purlwise. If you are working a purl row, the yarn is already at the front so slip the last stitch purlwise.

Basic Schulz single-square pattern

Row 1 (RS): Using the knit cast-on, cast on 22sts.

Row 2: k1tbl, k9, k2tog, k9, sl1.

Row 3 and all odd-number rows: k1tbl, knit to the last stitch, sl1.

Row 4: k1tbl, k8, k3tog, k8, sl1.

Row 6: k1tbl, k7, k3tog, k7, sl1.

Row 8: k1tbl, k6, k3tog, k6, sl1.

Row 10: k1tbl, k5, k3tog, k5, sl1.

Row 12: k1tbl, k4, k3tog, k4, sl1.

Row 14: k1tbl, k3, k3tog, k3, sl1.

Row 16: k1tbl, k2, k3tog, k2, sl1.

Row 18: k1tbl, k1, k3tog, k1, sl1.

Row 20: k1tbl, k3tog, sl1.

Row 22: k3togtbl.

Cut the yarn and pull the yarn end through this last loop.

Joining squares

The smoothest join is worked by knitting-up stitches from the edge of an existing square through the chain selvedge on either side of an existing square or through the cast-on loops of an existing square.

Patchwork squares have decreases at the centre, which creates a visible mitre to each square. When knitting-up stitches to join a new square to an existing square it is very important to consider the direction of the mitre. This will be covered in more detail later in this chapter.