South America (eBook)

Events

At the end of January the most famous and biggest Argentine folklore festival takes place in Cosquín near Cordoba.

Holy Week is celebrated fervently, as everywhere else in South America. And in March, the five-day Harvest Festival in Mendoza features fireworks, folklore and a royal coronation.

In August, the world's best tango dancer is chosen in Buenos Aires during the two-week Festival y Mundial de Balle.

And in December, Buenos Aires hosts the International Jazz Festival.

Route ARS 1:
Northern Argentina -
San Miguel de Tucumán,
Valle de Tafi, Amaicha de Valle,
Quilmes,
Calafate,
Salta,
Tilcara,
Uquía,
Humahuaca,
La Quiaca

Let's start with San Miguel de Tucumán, which is almost 800 kilometers by air or 1,100 kilometers by car from Asunción. The city can be reached by car in about 14 hours via the RN11 and RN89. As everywhere in South America, there are also frequent buses. Flights are hardly shorter due to a stopover of about nine hours plus arrival and departure to the airport and waiting time at the airport. We stay directly at the Plaza Independencia with the cathedral, the Casa de Gobierno and other colonial buildings, which look fantastic when illuminated at night In the center of the square is a large park.

The tourist information office provides us with a good map and tips. The Casa de Gobierno offers a guided tour on request In front of the main entrance, heavily armed police or militia have been deployed, because once again demonstrators have gathered in front of the building with demands for more work and financial support. This is a typical theme in Argentina, which can only be explained by a mentality that has been learned over generations. There is little work, as companies do not make sufficient profits despite numerous tax and social security avoidance measures. It does not seem worthwhile to set up a company. And if one has nevertheless created a smaller or mediumsize company, then this one counts already on the bankruptcy in approximately five years, since at the latest then it becomes clear that the taxes and the social security contributions for the employees were not paid correctly. A follow-up company under a similar name is then already in the starting blocks and if you yourself are banned from working for a while because of the bankruptcy, the new company will belong to a family member. It is also not helpful for a company foundation that the wages are high. But without high wages, employees would rather be pampered by the state in the social security system. We hear the same stories over and over again: Of families who have been a burden on the social security system for several generations, and who have been unable to make a fresh start even under the current economic reforms. Companies whose production is often not in line with the global market due to a lack of employee training and bureaucratic organization, and is therefore poor in terms of quality or too expensive due to a lack of machinery and excessively high wages. The sluggishness that has set in under the socially romantic regime and has already led to state bankruptcy cannot be stopped.

Nor can the level of education be raised quickly. If teachers in schools have been told for years that they are bad, if there are high failure and dropout rates, then it should not come as a surprise that half illiterate students have also received a certificate of completion. Performance was simply not required anywhere. The state then tried to protect the domestic economy with high import duties and capital controls. Likewise, high export duties, for example on agricultural products, led to Argentine cattle dying in the Pampa, no longer being slaughtered, their meat being too expensive on the world market. State failure all along the line. But of course there are big and small profiteers from this longstanding social experiment.

The Kirchner clan is rich. Its followers may not live very well, but they live comfortably enough at the expense of the state. The percentage of high-income citizens is also relatively high. And so the country is divided between socialist supporters of Kirchner and economically oriented conservatives. In the process, cracks run through families. One does not understand the other, cannot and will not understand him. A middle class, as represented by a social market economy, is unlikely to emerge in Argentina in the next few years. Yet the country is so beautiful, so rich in raw materials and was one of the most prosperous in the world in the 1920s. This is stored in the collective memory of the Argentineans and can be seen everywhere.

The cathedral of Tucumán is impressive, bright and relatively simple. The more typical Franciscan church, on the other hand, leaves a somber impression compared to this German-Hamburg elegance.

Next to this church stands an old university building. We are not allowed to look into the inner courtyard. Only those who can present and use a scanner-readable university card can pass through the barrier. Although the security personnel are reluctant to turn us away, the security and protection of the university staff and students come first.

Behind their hands, they say that without the security services, the number of books in the library would have been significantly reduced; so it's not about the safety of the people there, but about the safety of the institution.

In the pedestrian zone, an old lady, more like an old mother with a bent back, but an institution in Tucumán, stands and sells empanadas from her basket year after year, or rather decade after decade. Nowadays, the supplies are delivered by the granddaughter or great-granddaughter. Customers line up. One hand hands out the empanada with a napkin, the other takes the worn-out banknotes. We don't worry about hygiene. The empanadas taste good.

Music is playing in another square and we listen for a while before visiting the Museo de la Independencia. In this house, on July 9, 1816, the Congress proclaimed the independence of the United Provinces of the Rio de la Plata (Provincias Unidas del Rio de la Plata), the forerunner of today's Argentina and the successor of the Spanish Viceroyalty of the Rio de la Plata, and on July 21, 1816, it was officially and legally proclaimed by the Congress members. The original house was built in 1760 by the Bazán family and later became the property of the government In 1941, the house was declared a National Historic Monument and since 1943 it has been a museum. Some things have been renovated over time, and the room where the Congress proclaimed independence and signed the documents has been preserved in its original state. The paintings of the signatories hang on the walls. In addition, the history of the Rio de la Plata Viceroyalty and the political upheavals and emancipation efforts that ultimately led to the Declaration of Independence are explained in the other rooms. We will return here in the evening after dark, because we do not want to miss the evening spectacle. In the courtyard and the inner courtyards of the building, historical events are re-enacted. They are projected on the walls and accompanied by music. Even if we did not understand every word, it was impressive. Many families with children were there, fascinated by the events. The national feeling was appealed to and the people were inspired for their country. They are also proud. With good reason with regard to the previous century, and yet this sense of value is probably the main obstacle that prevents them from realistically seeing the changed world conditions and the value of their own work.

On our way back to the hotel, the park is full of people. Radio and television are represented. Several clergy of the cathedral offer talks. We count several benches or pairs of chairs where the faithful and the priests meet outside the church for a conversation without constraint, almost in a friendly manner. The waiting line of people of all ages is long, extending into the late evening.

The colonial building that houses the Museo Folclórico Provincial General Manuel Belgrano has been declared a municipal, regional and national cultural asset. The exhibits (since 1943) include mainly exhibits of local and regional folklore, information on rites of indigenous cultures, musical instruments and much more.

One room is dedicated exclusively to Mercedes Sosa, the city's most famous daughter. Mercedes Sosa (born in Tucuman on July 9, 1935, died in Buenos Aires on October 4, 2009) belonged to the Nuevos Cancioneros, folk singers of a new, political style of folklore. Their lyrics were socially critical and political in content, against war, dictatorship and for the rights of the indigenous population and the peasants. Sosa's first long-playing record, La voz de la Zafra (Voice of the Sugar Cane Harvest), was released in 1962 (exclusively Argentine folk). In 1967 she was already giving concerts all over the world (e.g. in Spain, Italy, Russia, Poland, USA). In her youth she supported Juan Perón, after the military coup she remained in Argentina under repressive measures, and later fled into exile in Madrid. After Argentina had a civilian government again, she returned in 1982 for a concert in Buenos Aires, and then returned completely in 1983. After her death, national mourning was declared. Her music and songs have been repeatedly awarded a Grammy Latino. She has sung and produced songs with many other international stars such as Joan Baez, Andrea Bocelli, Nana Mouskouri, Luciano Pavarotti, Shakira, Sting, Konstantin Wecker.

On the way to the Casa del Obispo, we stroll through the Parque de 9....