Fit and Sew Custom Jeans

Classic and Creative Sewing Techniques for Modern Patterns

Helen Elizabeth Bartley (Autor)

Buch | Softcover

224 Seiten

2021
Palmer-Pletsch Associates (Verlag)
978-1-61847-106-2 (ISBN)

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Fit and Sew Custom Jeans is unique in that it addresses both the order of construction and fit simultaneously. Other books gloss over the fitting, having you guess your adjustments in the flat pattern stage. By the time you try on the jeans, it may be too late to fix areas with poor fit. If you could, you'd need to rip a lot of topstitching, a real chore. Helen uses a combination of tissue-fitting and fabric fitting. This means not using a typical ready-to-wear sewing order. See the chart on what size to choose based on the type of fabric you have. Fill out the Jeans Profile so you consider how fitted you want the jeans for how they will be worn. Prepare the tissue for trying on to determine rise, width, length, and crotch shape. Learn how to gauge how much smaller the pattern can be in width based on a stretch of the denim. There are many ways to do a fly front, but which is best for incorporating fit? This is why the author tested many different techniques using her order to see which worked best. She sewed a total of 31 pair of jeans for herself and others so make sure she was truly giving the best solutions for fit.

Pati Palmer is the CEO of Palmer/Pletsch Publishing and a designer and consultant for the McCall Pattern Company.

CONTENTS

About the author..........................................................6

Foreword by Pati Palmer...............................................7

CHAPTER 1.................................................................8
Why Sew Jeans? A Bit of History

CHAPTER 2 .......................................................10
Tools • Sewing Machines & Sergers • Tools for Pressing, Cutting, Marking, Tissue-Fitting Alterations, Hardware Setting

CHAPTER 3...............................................................16
Materials • Denim Basics • Hardware, Needles, Thread, Interfacing, Zippers

CHAPTER 4.......................................................23
Patterns, Fit & Alterations • Personal Jeans Profile • Jeans Patterns and Sizing • Our Jeans-Making Order Includes Fit • Understanding Ease • Crotch Length and Crotch Depth • Tissue-Fitting—Why Tissue-Fit? | Choosing Your Best Pattern Size | Denim Wrap Test | Preparing Your Pattern for Tissue-Fitting | The Tissue-Fitting Order | Pattern Tissue Alterations | Fabric-Fitting Alterations

CHAPTER 5.......................................................62
Real People Fitting Jeans • Learning fit by examining different bodies • Ava | Ali | Pati | Helen | Julie | Greg | Taylor | Jeff

CHAPTER 6.....................................................108
Before You Sew • Good Sewing Hygiene • Fabric Prep • Prepare the Altered Pattern for Cutting, Making 1” Seams • Layout & Cutting • Transfer Pattern Markings • Seams, Topstitching, Bartacks, Buttonholes

CHAPTER 7.....................................................124
Constructing Jeans • Snap-View Construction Order • Step-By-Step Jeans Construction Quick Stitch Length Guide | Interfacing | Efficiency Serging | Belt Loops Prep | Back & Coin Pockets | Front Pockets | Fly Front Zipper| Baste & Fabric Fit | Fabric-Fitting Order | Yokes | Back Pockets | Inseams | Crotch Seam | Side Seams | Belt Loop Placement | Waistband | Attaching Belt loops | BarTacks | Buttonhole | Hem | Setting Hardware

CHAPTER 8.....................................................158
Design Mods • Legs — Articulated Knee | Seam Design Ideas • Pockets — Pocket Bag Variations | Topstitched Trouser Pocket | Coin Pockets | Back Pocket Variations | Topstitched Welt Pocket | Tulip Pocket | Darted Cargo Pocket • Front Closures — Hidden Button Fly | Exposed Button Fly | Mock Fly for Pull-On Jeans • Waistbands — Full Elastic • Hems & the Bottom Line — Raw Edge | Fringed Raw Edge | Tulip Hem | Exposed Ankle Zipper | Slits

CHAPTER 9.....................................................230
Care & Feeding of Jeans

CHAPTER 10............................................... 232
Templates • Fly Topstitching | Topstitched Welt Pocket | Darted Cargo Pocket | Tulip Pocket Resources and Metric Conversion Chart....................235

Index.......................................................................236

Other Palmer/Pletsch Products..................................238

CONTENTS

REVIEWS,

Erscheinungsdatum	02.12.2021
Illustrationen	Jeannette Schilling
Mitarbeit	Designer: Linda Wisner
Zusatzinfo	Illustrations, unspecified
Verlagsort	Portland, OR
Sprache	englisch
Maße	215 x 279 mm
Gewicht	771 g
Themenwelt	Sachbuch/Ratgeber ► Freizeit / Hobby ► Handarbeit / Textiles
Themenwelt	Sachbuch/Ratgeber ► Freizeit / Hobby ► Kreatives Gestalten
ISBN-10	1-61847-106-6 / 1618471066
ISBN-13	978-1-61847-106-2 / 9781618471062
Zustand	Neuware