North Coast Journey (eBook)

Welcome!

Meaningful connections and great memories

Thanks for joining me on this adventure around the glorious coastal fringe of Scotland’s far north Highlands.

Journeys are life affirming. An invitation to travel is to discover the unfamiliar, to create meaningful connections and to make memories that burn bright in the heart and mind. And so my intention is to share with you the outstanding places and vibrant communities that I know well, through my personal and family connections and through my professional work as a writer.

In recent years, the historic roads that follow the outline of the far north of Scotland have been branded and promoted with huge success as the North Coast 500 (www.northcoast500.com). Visitors are thrilled and impressed by the landscape, yet many of those that I meet feel a tinge of regret that they did not allow long for this epic experience. Looping the dramatic and characterful coast in a short period of just a week leaves many travellers feeling strangely disconnected. Though the scenery is inviting, their punishing schedule obliges them to keep moving on. I have seen visitors enchanted yet in a terrible rush to hurtle through the landscape. Leaping from their cars, campervans or motorbikes to snap a photo and maybe record a few moments of film footage before driving on to the next viewpoint.

Approaching this magnificent coastal circuit like a grand prix race creates pressure. Pit stops leave little time to paddle in the crystal-clear sea, climb a hill for panoramic views, walk among wildflowers on a gentle coastal path, linger over a freshly landed seafood lunch and spread out a rug to watch the setting sun sink into the sea. There’s little time to chat with local people and patiently observe wildlife; little time to take part in local events and festivals or discover exhibitions, museums, galleries and the work of inspirational craftspeople. While some travellers I have met relish these whistle-stop days, many wished for more time to engage with the landscape and friendly communities.

In the village stores at Bettyhill, I chatted with a woman who was travelling by motorbike with her partner. ‘We’re doing the whole north coast trip in a week,’ she told me. ‘We were under the impression it was possible. Now we are here we realise it is a rush. The scenery is fantastic. We keep seeing things and want to stop but we can’t – we’ve got to keep moving because we haven’t enough time.’

I have friends across the far north Highlands who sense this deeply from many visitors too. Travellers arrive in a whirl, stay for one night, wish they had longer and hurtle onward. And so this book is my response to requests from those guests and locals who have shared with me their feeling that so much opportunity is lost by rushing around the far north Highlands in a high-pressured week.

I am passionate about this landscape and the vibrant communities. My advice is to allow plenty of time for discovery – at least 10 days – or travel only as much of the route as is possible in a meaningful way in the time you have available. The rewards are immense and satisfying.

This journey explores the coast in sections. Each area is rich and fascinating with much to discover over a few days. Walk and cycle where you can – this appealing landscape lends itself to adventure, whether in the form of a short excursion around a dramatic headland accompanied by clamouring seabirds and curious seals or an epic quest to the heart of the mountains and the territory of golden eagles. I invite you to wander. Embrace the opportunity to connect with the magic of the scenery and the communities. Make your far north Highland experience meaningful and memorable.

Thrills, wonders and surprises await you!

Have fun!

Brigid Benson

Driving

DRIVING IN THE FAR NORTH HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND

The road network across the far north Highlands is limited and every route is vital to remote communities. Many of the roads are single-track carriageways with passing places designed to permit overtaking. Before setting off, please take the time to research and understand how to use these roads. This is of enormous importance because local communities depend hugely on the free flow of traffic to go about their daily business. Visitors are very welcome and local people entirely understand that, in such spectacular scenery, drivers might wish at times to crawl along. Yet slow moving vehicles that do not pull in to permit overtaking on single-track roads cause serious hold-ups and tailbacks that impact negatively on the community.

Several roads also present extreme challenges. Unfortunately, some visitors are overambitious and attempt to drive these fiendish rural routes in hire vehicles with which they are not fully familiar. When they become stuck, roads are blocked for hours and communities are cut off. Please choose your route with care. Avoid precarious roads that might cause you too much stress and seek alternatives to those that are unsuitable for your vehicle.

In remote Highland communities, ambulances may be unable to reach emergencies swiftly. Instead doctors often travel many kilometres by car to attend a scene. To alert traffic to the emergency they use green flashing lights. If you see the green flashing lights of a doctor’s car approaching, plan ahead. Look for a safe space in the road for the doctor to pass. Don’t stop on corners – they are dangerous. If there is no immediate safe place, please wait until the next suitable opportunity.

Magnificent red deer and especially stags have become the iconic symbol of the Scottish Highlands. The deer population is thriving and thousands are killed or injured annually in road traffic accidents. Drivers and passengers may also be seriously injured in terrible collisions which can write off a car. It pays to be aware of the animals’ habits. Deer strikes occur throughout the year but they are most frequent in May and June. Hinds and their young are particularly vulnerable to traffic in these months. Collisions peak between dusk and midnight. It is important to report any deer strike to the local police, especially when an animal is injured or has left the scene. This limits unnecessary suffering and further danger to traffic. However, do not approach an injured deer. Though usually placid, a wounded animal may be fearful and dangerous.

Be aware that deer seldom travel alone – where one animal approaches or crosses the road it is possible that there may be a herd of others waiting their turn. In this situation, be alert. Dip your vehicle’s full beam headlights to avoid startling them.

GOOD TO GO!

Here’s a list of some important and useful things to have with you in the wild, wonderful remote Highland landscape:

•Detailed maps of all the areas you intend to visit. Satnav systems do not work throughout the far north Highlands. The maps in this book are for general orientation only and as such do not include all the places mentioned in the text.

•Strong footwear and perhaps walking poles too – there are many wonderful paths around cliffs, through heather, along muddy tracks and into thrilling rocky places.

•Protective clothing for sun, wind and rain. The far north coast of Scotland is renowned for four seasons in one day with good reason.

•Midge repellent, insect repellent and a tick remover – the midges, horseflies and ticks of the far north Highlands can be seriously irritating. Ticks present the serious threat of Lyme disease. While a midge head-net covering is hardly the height of glamour, it will provide some respite at particularly testing times. Swarming clouds of midges pay no respect to personal space.

•A first-aid kit – pharamacists and doctors are few and far between in remote landscapes.

•Binoculars and telescope – getting a closer look at the spectacular wildlife on land, in the sea and in the air is a huge part of the Highland experience.

•Torch and head torch – unpolluted dark skies in the mountains are magnificent yet, for safety, a torch is essential. You may also find it useful when exploring easily accessible caves.

•Phone charger – though signals are often poor, a fully charged phone is invaluable.

•Golf clubs – golfers are warmly welcome to simply turn up and play at many far north coast golf courses. Some offer club hire if booked in advance. However, if you are a keen golfer, the jaw-dropping scenery is hard to resist so you may wish to be ready to play at any moment.

•Bicycle – if you can manage to take a bike, it is well worth it. Summer morning and late evening bike rides along quiet lanes are magical. Alternatively, consider hiring a bike locally.

•Picnic rug, blanket and lantern – these creature comforts make alfresco occasions all the more romantic. A folding chair is also handy for those moments when the scenery invites you to simply sit, stop and stare.

•A flask – warming tea, coffee or soup in the wilderness is sheer luxury.

•Emergency rations, treats and water – be prepared for incidents and celebrations! You may well have both.

•Cash – there are very few banks and, while most businesses accept cards, it is useful to have a good supply of cash lest there are any difficulties.

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