Trekking in Peru

In the mid 1970s, Hilary Bradt spent 18 months backpacking through South America with her husband George, writing their first guide and thus founding Bradt Travel Guides on the way. From 1979 to 1992 she visited Peru and other South American countries for two months each summer leading treks for an American tour operator, and occasionally thereafter for other companies. She reckons to have visited Machu Picchu at least 25 times

Introduction ix
PART ONE G ENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 B ackground Information 3
History 3, People: past and present 6, Language 11
Chapter 2 N atural History and Conservation 17
Geology 17, Geography 18, Climate 19, Flora 20,
Fauna 25, Protected areas of Peru 35, Field
guides 42
Chapter 3 Practical Information 45
When to visit 45, Backpacking or organised
trekking? 49, Tour operators 50, Tourist
information 51, Red tape 52, Getting there and
away 52, What to take 53, Money and budgeting 59,
Getting around 61, Accommodation 63, Eating
and drinking 65, Handicrafts 70, Photography 71,
Media and communications 72, Business 74,
Volunteering and giving something back 74
Chapter 4 B ackpacking and Trekking: Deciding What's Best for You 77
Where to go: an overview 77, Backpacking or
trekking? 80, Organised trekking: choosing the
right company 80, Trekking: the experience 82,
Backpacking: the experience 86, Village etiquette
for independent backpackers 91, Minimum
impact 93
Chapter 5 H ealth and Safety 96
Health 96, Safety 107
PART TWO TR EKKING AND BACKPACKING GUIDE 113
Chapter 6 Lima 115
History 115, Getting there and away 115, Getting
around 119, Where to stay 121, Where to eat
and drink 122, Entertainment and nightlife 124,
Useful addresses 125, Tourist information 127,
Maps 128
Chapter 7 Cajamarca and Chachapoyas Regions 129
Cajamarca town and region 129, Cumbe Mayo
to San Pablo 133, The Chachapoyas region 136,
Exploring the ruins around Chachapoyas 139, The
waterfalls 146
Chapter 8 T he Cordilleras: Negra, Blanca and Huayhuash 151
The cordilleras: an overview 151, Parque Nacional
Huascaran 154, Huaraz 158, Caraz 166, Trekking
and backpacking overview 167, Trekking routes
in the Cordillera Blanca 171, Trekking in the
Cordillera Huayhuash 198
Chapter 9 T he Central Andes 211
Huancayo 211, The Cordillera Central 217, Other
places of interest in the region 221, Trekking the
Inca Royal Road: Castillo via Huanuco Viejo to
Yanahuanca 224
Chapter 10 Cusco and the Vicinity 231
History of the Incas 231, Cusco 233, Hiking,
trekking and backpacking 251, Hiking routes
around Cusco 254, The Valley of Lares 271,
Ollantaytambo and around 278
Chapter 11 T he Cordilleras Vilcabamba and Vilcanota 283
The Vilcabamba region 283, Aguas Calientes
(Machu Picchu Pueblo) 285, The Inca Trail 290,
Salkantay hikes 298, Other treks in the Cordillera
Vilcabamba 310, The Vilcanota region 321
Chapter 12 T he Arequipa Area 343
Arequipa 343, Climbing the volcanoes 350, The
Colca Canyon 354, Trekking in the Colca
Canyon 357

Appendix 1 Language 362
Appendix 2 List of Major hikes and treks 364
index 369