Scottish Highlands - the Hillwalking Guide Trailblazer British Walking Guide

Jim Manthorpe has trekked in many of the world's mountainous regions from Patagonia to the Himalaya and Scandinavia to the Canadian Rockies. Since 1999 he's been a freelance travel writer, photographer and lecturer. He is the author of three other Trailblazer guidebooks: South Downs Way, Pembrokeshire Coast Path and Tour du Mont Blanc. He has also researched and updated numerous other Trailblazer titles. Jim lived for seven years on the west coast of Scotland in Knoydart, the remotest inhabited place in mainland Britain. As well as writing guidebooks Jim works as a wildlife photographer and film-maker.

INTRODUCTION Munros and munro-bagging 9 PART 1: PLANNING YOUR WALK Practical information for the hillwalker Accommodation 10 - Food 13 - Drink 14 - Money 15 - Services 15 Access 15 - Walking companies 16 - Information for foreign visitors 16 When to go Seasons 18 - Temperature 20 - Rainfall 20 - Daylight hours 21 Annual events, festivals and Highland games 22 - Estates & deer stalking 23 What to take The pack on your back 24 - Footwear 24 - Clothes 25 - Toiletries 26 First-aid kit 27 - General items 27 - Sleeping kit 27 - Camping gear 28 Bivvy gear 28 - Maps 28 - Recommended reading 29 Getting to the Highlands Getting to Scotland 31 - Getting around the Highlands 34 PART 2: MINIMUM IMPACT WALKING Environmental impact 38 - Economic impact 42 Conservation Scottish Natural Heritage 43 - National parks 44 - Other protected areas 45 PART 3: THE HIGHLANDS Facts about the Highlands Geography 46 - Geology 47 - History 48 - Language 50 Flora and fauna Mammals 51- Birds 53 - Trees 57 - Flowers and plants 58 - Lichens 59 PART 4: ROUTE GUIDES AND MAPS Map keys 60 Using this guide 61 Loch Lomond and the Southern Highlands The mountains: Ben Ledi 879m 64 - The Cobbler 884m 65 - Ben Lomond 974m 68 - Ben Vorlich 943m 70 - Ben More 1174m & Stob Binnein 1165m 72 - Beinn Dorain 1076m & Beinn an Dothaidh 1004m 74 Stob ae Choire Odhair 945m & Stob Ghabhar 1090m 77 Towns and villages: Callander 81 - Arrochar 84 - Inverbeg 86 Rowardennan 86 - Ardlui 86 - Inverarnan 86 - Crianlarich 87 Tyndrum 88 - Bridge of Orchy 89 Glen Coe and Glen Nevis The mountains: Buachaille Etive Mor (Stob Dearg 1021m & Stob na Broige 956m) 90 - Aonach Eagach (Meall Dearg 953m & Sgorr nam Fiannaidh 967m) 93 - Stob Coire Sgreamhach 1072m, Bidean nam Bian 1150m & Stob Coire nan Lochan 1115m 97 - Ballachulish Horseshoe (Sgorr Dhearg 1024m & Sgorr Dhonuill 1001m) 100 Stob Ban 999m & Mullach nan Coirean 939m 103 - Carn Mor Dearg 1220m & Ben Nevis 1344m 106 Towns and villages: Kingshouse 110 - Glen Coe 111 Glencoe Village 111 Ballachulish 113 Glen Nevis 113 Fort William 114 The Central Highlands The mountains: Beinn Ghlas 1103m & Ben Lawers 1214m 118 Schiehallion 1083m 120 - Sgor Iutharn 1028m, Geal Charn 1132m & Carn Dearg 1034m 122 - Ben Alder 1148m & Beinn Bheoil 1019m 127 - Creag Dhubh 757m 129 - Creag Meagaidh 1128m 130 Stob Coire Easain 1115m & Stob ae Choire Mheadhoin 1105m 132 Towns and villages: Killin 138 - Dalwhinnie 140 - Laggan 140 Tulloch 141 - Roybridge 141 D Corrour 141 The Cairngorms and Eastern Highlands The mountains: Ben Vrackie 841m 143 - Mayar 928m & Driesh 947m 145 - Carn ae Choire Bhoidheach 1110m & Lochnagar 1155m 147 - Derry Cairngorm 1155m, Ben Macdui 1309m & Carn ae Mhaim 1037m 151 - Braeriach 1296m, Sgor an Lochain Uaine 1258m, Cairn Toul 1291m & The Deviles Point 1004m 158 Cairn Gorm 1244m 164 - Meall aeBhuachaille 810m 166 Towns and villages: Pitlochry 169 - Clova 171 D Braemar 172 Aviemore 173 - Glenmore 174 Sunart to Knoydart The mountains: Beinn Resipol 845m 176 - Sgurr Ghiubhsachain 849m & Sgorr Craobh ae Chaorainn 775m 178 - The Corryhully Horsehoe (Sgurr nan Coireachan 956m & Sgurr Thuilm 963m) 182 - Beinn Bhuidhe (Knoydart) 855m 185 - Ladhar Bheinn 1020m 189 - Sgurr ae Mhaoraich 1027m 194 Towns and villages: Strontian 197 - Glenfinnan 198 - Mallaig 198 Inverie 200 - Tomdoun 201 - Kinlochhourn 201 - Barisdale 201 Glen Shiel to Torridon and Fisherfield The mountains: Beinn Sgritheall 974m 203 - The Saddle 1010m & Sgurr na Sgine 946m 206 - Sgurr na Lapaich 1036m, Mam Sodhail 1181m & Carn Eige 1183m 209 - Beinn Damh 902m 213 - Beinn Alligin (Tom na Gruagaich 922m & Sgurr Mhor 986m) 215 - Beinn Eighe (Spidean Coire nan Clach 993m & Ruadh-stac Mor 1010m) 217 - Beinn an Eoin 855m 220 - Ae Mhaigdean 967m & Ruadh Stac Mor 918m 222 An Teallach (Bidean ae Ghlas Thuill 1062m & Sgurr Fiona 1060m) 227 Towns and villages: Glenelg 231 - Glen Shiel & Shiel Bridge 231 Tomich 232 - Torridon 232 - Kinlochewe 233 - Poolewe 233 Gairloch 234 -; Dundonnell 234 The Far North The mountains: Stac Pollaidh 613m 236 - Suilven (Caisteal Liath 731m) 237 - Quinaig (Sail Gharbh 808m, Sail Gorm 776m & Spidean Coinich 764m) 240 - Ben Stack 721m 242 - Arkle 787m 243 Ben Hope 927m 245 - Ben Loyal 764m 246 Towns and villages: Ullapool 249 - Lochinver 252 - Kylesku 253 Scourie 253 - Durness 253 - Tongue 254 The Islands The mountains: Arran (Goatfell 874m 255) -Mull (Beinn Talaidh 762m 258) - Rum (Ainshval 781m & Askival 812m 260) Skye (Bla Bheinn 928m 265; Sgurr nan Gillean 964m 267; Glamaig 775m 269; The Storr 719m 271) - South Uist (Beinn Mhor 620m, Ben Corodale 527m & Hecla 606m 273) - Harris (Ceapabhal 365m 275; Clisham 799m 278) - Lewis (Suaineabhal 429m 281) Towns and villages: Arran (Brodick 283) - Oban (for Mull) 284 Mull (Craignure 286) - Rum (Kinloch 287) - Skye (Broadford 287; Torrin 288; Sligachan 288; Portree 289; Uig 290) South Uist (Tobha Mor 292) - Harris (An t-Ob 292, An Taobh Tuath 292; Tarbert 293; Ardhasaig 294) - Lewis (Timsgearraidh 294) The Big Treks The Great Traverse - Corrour to Glen Nevis (via The Grey Corries, The Aonachs, Carn Mor Dearg & Ben Nevis), 2-3 days 295 Cairngorms - Aviemore to Linn of Dee, 2 days 298 Knoydart - Kinlochhourn to Inverie, 2 days 300 Fisherfield - Poolewe to Dundonnell, 2-3 days 301 APPENDICES A: Mountain safety 303 B: Gaelic 309 C: Glossary 310 D: Mountain photography 311 INDEX 312