Gabon

Annelies Hickendorff set first foot in Gabon during an Africa Overland trip in 2006. In a 20-year-old Landcruiser she drove more than 25,000 km from her hometown in the Netherlands to reach South Africa. This journey gave her a passion for Africa in general and Central Africa in particular: the dense tropical rainforests, exceptional natural beauty and mystic peoples put a spell on her and she has been returning to the region ever since. Annelies has been working in communications in several Sub-Saharan countries and has a keen interest in the link between environment and development.

Contents

Introduction vii

PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1

Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 3, History 3, Government and politics 12, Economy 12, People 16, Language 17, Religion 17, Culture 18

Chapter 2 Natural History and Conservation 23
Habitats and vegetation 23, Conservation 25, Wildlife 32

Chapter 3 Practical Information 43
When to visit 43, Highlights 43, Suggested itineraries 43, Tourist information 44, Tour operators 45, Red tape 46, Embassies 46, Getting there and away 47, Safety 49, Women travellers 50, Gay travellers 50, Travellers with disabilities 50, Travelling with children 50, What to take 50, Money 52, Budgeting 53, Getting around 53, Accommodation 57, Eating and drinking 58, Public holidays and events 59, Shopping 61, Media and communications 61, Cultural etiquette 64, Travelling positively 65

Chapter 4 Health 67
Preparations 67, In Gabon 70

PART TWO THE GUIDE 79

Chapter 5 Libreville and L'Estuaire 81
Getting there and away 82, Orientation 84, Getting around 85, Tourist information and local tour operators 87, Where to stay 88, Where to eat and drink 90, Entertainment and nightlife 93, Shopping 94, Other practicalities 95, What to see and do 97, Around Libreville and L'Estuaire 99

Chapter 6 Moyen Ogooué 107
Lambaréné 107, Ndjolé 114
Chapter 7 Ngounié 117
Mouila 117, Sindara 120, Fougamou 120, Ndendé 120, Massif du Chaillu 120

Chapter 8 Ogooué Maritime 123
Port Gentil 123, Fernan Vaz Lagoon 131, Loango National Park 132, Gamba 136

Chapter 9 Nyanga 139
Tchibanga 139, Moukalaba-Doudou National Park 142, Mayumba 143

Chapter 10 Woleu-Ntem 145
Oyem 146, Bitam 147, North of Bitam 148, Mitzic 148, Minkébé National Park 150

Chapter 11 Ogooué-Ivindo 151
Lopé National Park 151, Makokou 158, Ivindo National Park 159

Chapter 12 Haut Ogooué 163
Franceville 163, Moanda 168, Mounana 169, Bakoumba and Lékédi Park 170, The Batéké Plateau 173, Léconi 174

Chapter 13 Ogooué-Lolo 177
Koulamoutou 177, Lastoursville 179

Appendix 1 Language 181

Appendix 2 Further Information 184

Index 188