Northern Tanzania

Philip Briggs has been exploring Africa since 1986, when he first visited Tanzania. He has visited more than two dozen African countries and written about most of them for specialist travel and wildlife magazines including Africa Birds & Birding, Africa Geographic, BBC Wildlife, Travel Africa and Wanderlust. He spends at least four months on the road every year, usually accompanied by his wife, the travel photographer Ariadne Van Zandbergen, and spends the rest of his time in the sleepy village of Bergville, in the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg region of South Africa.

Introduction ix
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography 3, Climate 4, History 5, Government and politics 16, Economy 17, People 18, Language 18,
Religion 20
Chapter 2 Natural History 21
Habitats and vegetation 21, Wildlife 21
Chapter 3 Practical Information 49
When to visit 49, Highlights 50, Itinerary planning 52, Tourist information 59, Tour operators 59, Red tape 61, Embassies and diplomatic missions 62, Getting there and away 62, Safety 66, What to take 69, Money and
banking 70, Getting around 72, Accommodation 73, Eating and drinking 75, Public holidays 77, Shopping 78, Media and communications 78, Cultural etiquette 79
Chapter 4 Health 85
Before you go 85, Common medical problems in
Tanzania 88, Other diseases 91, Dangerous animals 93
PART TWO THE GUIDE 95
Chapter 5 Arusha and Around 97
History 98, Getting there and away 100, Orientation 101,
Getting around 102, Tourist information 102, Safari operators 103, Where to stay 107, Where to eat 111, Entertainment and nightlife 116, Shopping 117, Other practicalities 120, What to see and do 121, Around Arusha 126
Chapter 6 Moshi and Around 139
Getting there and away 140, Tourist information 140, Where to stay 141, Where to eat 144, Nightlife 146, Shopping 146, Other practicalities 147, Around Moshi 148
Chapter 7 Mount Kilimanjaro National Park 157
Geology 157, History 157, Vegetation and biology 159, Climbing Kilimanjaro 160
Chapter 8 The Usambara Mountains 173
Lushoto and the Western Usambara 173, Amani Nature Reserve and the Eastern Usambara 188
Chapter 9 Tanga and the North Coast 193
Tanga and around 193, Pangani and Ushongo 205, Saadani National Park 215
Chapter 10 Tarangire and the Central Rift Valley 219
Tarangire National Park 219, Babati 225, Mount Hanang and Katesh 227, Kondoa rock art sites 231, Dodoma 244
Chapter 11 Lake Manyara and the Northern Rift Valley 247
Lake Manyara National Park 247, Lake Eyasi and the Yaeda Valley 256, North of Manyara 259
Chapter 12 Ngorongoro and the Crater Highlands 269
Karatu 269, Ngorongoro Conservation Area 275
Chapter 13 Serengeti National Park 289
History 289, Wildlife 293, Seronera, Ndutu and the southern plains 295, The Western Corridor 301, Lobo, Loliondo and the north-central Serengeti 305, The Mara River and the far northwest 307
Chapter 14 Lake Victoria 311
Mwanza and around 311, Musoma 324, Rubondo Island National Park 327, Bukoba and around 334
Chapter 15 Zanzibar 341
History 341, Getting there and away 343, Getting
around 345, Zanzibar Town 347, Around Zanzibar Town 367, Islands close to Zanzibar Town 371, Northern Zanzibar 373, The east coast 384, The west coast 397, Pemba Island 403
Appendix 1 Language 412
Appendix 2 Further Information 420
Index 426
Index to advertisers 430