Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology

Gabriella Baki, PhD, is an associate professor and the program director of the Bachelor of Science in Pharmaceutical Sciences Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design major at the University of Toledo, College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences. She also serves as a research advisor for students in her cosmetic science research group.

Author Biography xxiii

Preface xxv

Acknowledgments xxvii

About the Companion Website xxix

Part 1 General Concepts 1

1 Basic Definitions. Claims. Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 3

Learning Objectives 3

Key Concepts 4

1.1 What Is Cosmetic Science? 5

1.2 Basic Definitions 8

1.3 How is a Product’s Intended Use Established in the US? 13

1.4 Classification of Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 14

1.5 Cosmetic Claims 15

1.6 A Special Category: Soap 27

Glossary of Terms 28

Abbreviations 30

References 30

2 Cosmetic Ingredients and Active Ingredients Used in OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 33

Learning Objectives 33

Key Concepts 34

2.1 Cosmetic Ingredients 35

2.2 Active Ingredients 55

Glossary of Terms 59

Abbreviations 61

References 62

3 Product forms for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 65

Learning Objectives 65

Key Concepts 66

3.1 Introduction 66

3.2 What is a Product Form? 67

3.3 Product Forms for Cosmetic Applications 68

Glossary of Terms 78

Abbreviations 79

References 80

4 Government and Independent Organizations in the Cosmetic Industry 81

Learning Objectives 81

Key Concepts 82

4.1 Introduction 83

4.2 Food and Drug Administration 83

4.3 Personal Care Product Council 85

4.4 Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel 85

4.5 Federal Trade Commission 86

4.6 National Advertising Division 87

4.7 Environmental Protection Agency 87

4.8 International Fragrance Association (IFRA) 88

4.9 Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) 88

4.10 Flavor and Extract Manufacturers Association (FEMA) 88

4.11 European Commission 89

4.12 Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety 89

4.13 Cosmetics Europe – the Personal Care Association 89

Glossary of Terms 90

Abbreviations 90

References 91

5 Current Rules and Regulations for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products in the United States and European Union 93

Learning Objectives 93

Key Concepts 94

5.1 Introduction 95

5.2 Regulation in the US 95

5.3 Regulation in the EU 104

Glossary of Terms 108

Abbreviations 108

References 109

6 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 111

Learning Objectives 111

Key Concepts 112

6.1 Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practices 112

Glossary of Terms 119

Abbreviations 120

References 120

7 Labeling Tutorial for Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products Marketed in the United States. INCI Names 121

Learning Objectives 121

Key Concepts 122

7.1 Introduction 123

7.2 Cosmetic Products 125

7.3 OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 130

7.4 INCI Naming 134

7.5 Do You Know the Exact Composition of a Cosmetic Product or OTC Drug–Cosmetic Product? 136

Glossary of Terms 137

Abbreviations 138

References 139

8 Testing of Cosmetics and OTC Drug–Cosmetic Products 141

Learning Objectives 141

Key Concepts 142

8.1 Product Development Cycle 143

8.2 Product Testing 144

Glossary of Terms 156

Abbreviations 157

References 157

Part 2 Skin Care Products 161

9 Skin Anatomy and Physiology 163

Learning Objectives 163

Key Concepts 164

9.1 Introduction 165

9.2 Structure and Function of Human Skin 165

9.3 Main Characteristics of Human Skin 172

Glossary of Terms 178

Abbreviations 180

References 180

10 Skin Cleansing Products 183

Learning Objectives 183

Key Concepts 185

10.1 Introduction 186

10.2 Types and Definition of Skin Cleansing Products 186

10.3 History of Using Skin Cleansing Products 187

10.4 How Skin Cleansers May Affect the Skin 188

10.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 191

10.6 Basic Concepts of Skin Cleansing Products 191

10.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Cleansing Products 195

10.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Cleansing Products 211

10.9 Typical Quality Problems of Skin Cleansing Products 212

10.10 Evaluation of Skin Cleansing Products 216

10.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 231

10.12 Packaging of Skin Cleansing Products 233

Glossary of Terms 234

Abbreviations 236

References 237

11 Skin Moisturizing Products 243

Learning Objectives 243

Key Concepts 244

11.1 Introduction 245

11.2 Types and Definition of Skin Moisturizers 245

11.3 History of Using Skin Moisturizers 246

11.4 How Skin Moisturizers May Affect the Skin 247

11.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 249

11.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Skin Moisturizers 249

11.7 Product Types 256

11.8 Considerations When Selecting Skin Moisturizers 259

11.9 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Moisturizer Formulations 260

11.10 Evaluation of Skin Moisturizing Products 260

11.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 267

11.12 Packing of Skin Moisturizers 268

Glossary of Terms 269

Acronyms 270

References 270

12 Products for Aging 275

Learning Objectives 275

Key Concepts 276

12.1 Introduction 277

12.2 Changes in Skin Structure and Function During Aging 277

12.3 Drug or Cosmetic? 281

12.4 Typical Ingredients Used in Topical Antiaging Products 282

12.5 Formulation Considerations of Topical Antiaging Products 287

12.6 Formulation Challenges of Common Antiaging Ingredients 290

12.7 Safety Concerns Regarding the Use of Topical Noninvasive Antiaging Ingredients 291

12.8 Packing of Antiaging Products 293

Glossary of Terms 293

Abbreviations 294

References 295

13 Products for Acne 301

Learning Objectives 301

Key Concepts 302

13.1 Introduction 302

13.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Pilosebaceous Unit 303

13.3 Development of Acne 304

13.4 Symptoms and Types of Acne Vulgaris 307

13.5 Treatment of Acne Vulgaris 309

13.6 Formulation Considerations 314

13.7 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 315

13.8 Packaging of Anti-Acne Products 316

Glossary of Terms 316

Abbreviations 317

References 317

14 Skin Lightening Products 323

Learning Objectives 323

Key Concepts 324

14.1 Introduction 325

14.2 Skin Color and Production of Melanin 325

14.3 Common Hyperpigmention Lesions 327

14.4 History of Using Skin Lightening Products 329

14.5 Drug or Cosmetic? 329

14.6 How Skin Lightening Products May Affect the Skin 330

14.7 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 331

14.8 Typical Ingredients used in Skin Lightening Products 331

14.9 Formulation Considerations and Challenges for Topical Skin Lightening Products 334

14.10 Important Considerations When Using Skin Lightening Products 335

14.11 Typical Quality Issues of Skin Lightening Formulations 336

14.12 Evaluation of Skin Lightening Products 336

14.13 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 339

14.14 Packaging of Skin Lightening Products 340

Glossary of Terms 340

Abbreviations 341

References 341

15 Sun Care Products 347

Learning Objectives 347

Key Concepts 348

15.1 Introduction 349

15.2 Sun Protection Basics 350

15.3 Effects of UV Radiation on the Human Body 356

15.4 Types and Definition of Sun Care Products 358

15.5 History of Using Sun Care Products 359

15.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 360

15.7 Sunscreens 361

15.8 After-Sun Products 370

15.9 Typical Quality Problems of Sun Care Products 371

15.10 Evaluation of Sun Care Products 371

15.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 380

15.12 Packaging of Sun Care Products 382

Glossary of Terms 383

Abbreviations 385

References 385

Part 3 Hair Care Products 393

16 Hair Anatomy And Physiology 395

Learning Objectives 395

Key Concepts 396

16.1 Introduction 396

16.2 Structure and Function of Human Hair 397

16.3 Main Characteristics of Human Hair 400

Glossary of Terms 409

Abbreviations 411

References 411

17 Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 413

Learning Objectives 413

Key Concepts 414

17.1 Introduction 415

17.2 Types and Definition of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 415

17.3 History of Using Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 416

17.4 How Hair Cleaning and Conditioning Products May Affect the Hair and Scalp 416

17.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 418

17.6 Hair Cleansing Products 419

17.7 Hair Conditioners 426

17.8 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 430

17.9 Evaluation of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 430

17.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 432

17.11 Packaging of Hair Cleansing and Conditioning Products 433

Glossary of Terms 433

Abbreviations 434

References 434

18 Hair Styling Products Hair Straightening Products and Hair Waving Products 439

Learning Objectives 439

Key Concepts 441

18.1 Introduction 442

18.2 Types and Definition of Hair Styling Hair Straightening and Hair Waving Products 442

18.3 History of Using Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 443

18.4 How Hair Styling Products and Procedures May Affect the Hair and Scalp 444

18.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 446

18.6 Hair Styling Products 447

18.7 Hair Styling Procedures 452

18.8 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 460

18.9 Evaluation of Hair Styling Hair Waving  and Hair Straightening Products 461

18.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 465

18.11 Packaging of Hair Styling Hair Waving and Hair Straightening Products 468

Glossary of Terms 468

Abbreviations 470

References 470

19 Hair Coloring Products 475

Learning Objectives 475

Key Concepts 476

19.1 Introduction 477

19.2 Types and Definition of Hair Coloring Products 477

19.3 History of Using Hair Coloring Products 478

19.4 How Hair Coloring Products May Affect the Scalp and Hair 479

19.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 481

19.6 Current US Regulation of Hair Dyes 481

19.7 Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Hair Coloring Products 482

19.8 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Coloring Products 489

19.9 Evaluation of Hair Coloring Products 490

19.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 490

19.11 Packaging of Hair Coloring Products 492

Glossary of terms 492

Abbreviations 494

References 494

Part 4 Color Cosmetics 497

20 Lip Makeup Products 499

Learning Objectives 499

Key Concepts 500

20.1 Introduction 501

20.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Lips 501

20.3 History of Using Lip Makeup Products 503

20.4 Types and Definition of Lip Makeup Products 504

20.5 How Lip Makeup Products May Affect the Lips 505

20.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 506

20.7 Typical Ingredients of Lip Makeup Products 506

20.8 Common Types of Lip Makeup Products 509

20.9 Formulation of Lip Makeup Products 511

20.10 Typical Quality Issues of Lip Makeup Products 515

20.11 Evaluation of Lip Makeup Products 517

20.12 Ingredient Causing Safety Concerns 519

20.13 Packaging of Lip Makeup Products 520

Glossary of Terms 520

Abbreviations 522

References 522

21 Eye Makeup Products 525

Learning Objectives 525

Key Concepts 526

21.1 Introduction 527

21.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Eyelids and Eyelashes 527

21.3 History of Using Eye Makeup Products 528

21.4 Types and Definition of Eye Makeup Products 529

21.5 How Eye Makeup Products May Affect the Eye Area 530

21.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 532

21.7 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Eye Makeup Products 533

21.8 Typical Quality Issues of Eye Makeup Products 541

21.9 Evaluation of Eye Makeup Products 543

21.10 Safety Testing of Eye Cosmetics 547

21.11 Packaging of Eye Makeup Products 548

Glossary of Terms 549

Abbreviations 550

References 550

22 Facial Makeup Products 553

Learning Objectives 553

Key Concepts 554

22.1 Introduction 555

22.2 Types and Definition of Facial Makeup Products 555

22.3 History of Using Facial Makeup Products 556

22.4 How Facial Makeup Products May Affect the Skin 557

22.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 559

22.6 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Facial Makeup Products 559

22.7 Typical Quality Issues of Facial Makeup Products 567

22.8 Evaluation of Facial Makeup Products 568

22.9 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 568

22.10 Packaging of Facial Makeup Products 570

Glossary of Terms 570

Abbreviations 571

References 571

23 Nail Care Products 575

Learning Objectives 575

Key Concepts 576

23.1 Introduction 577

23.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Nails 577

23.3 History of Using Nail Care Products 579

23.4 Types and Definition of Nail Care Products 580

23.5 How Nail Care Products May Affect the Human Nails 581

23.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 583

23.7 Functional Nail Care Products 583

23.8 Decorative Nail Care Products 585

23.9 Nail Polish Removers 593

23.10 Typical Quality Issues of Nail Care Products 594

23.11 Evaluation of Nail Care Products 595

23.12 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 598

23.13 Packaging of Nail Care Products 600

Glossary of Terms 601

Abbreviations 602

References 602

Part 5 Additional Personal Care Products 607

24 Oral and Dental Care Products 609

Learning Objectives 609

Key Concepts 610

24.1 Introduction 611

24.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Human Oral Cavity 612

24.3 Review of the Most Common Oral and Dental Care Problems 613

24.4 History of Using Oral and Dental Care Products 617

24.5 Types and Definition of Oral and Dental Care Products 618

24.6 How Oral and Dental Care Products May Affect the Teeth and the Oral Cavity 619

24.7 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 620

24.8 Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Oral and Dental Care Products 621

Glossary of Terms 640

Abbreviations 641

References 642

25 Hair Removal Products 647

Learning Objectives 647

Key Concepts 648

25.1 Introduction 649

25.2 Review of the Structure and Function of Human Hair 649

25.3 History of Using Hair Removal Methods 651

25.4 Possible Methods for Removing Hair 652

25.5 Types and Definition of Hair Removal Products 656

25.6 How Hair Removal Products May Affect the Skin and Hair 657

25.7 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 659

25.8 Types Typical Ingredients  and Formulation of Hair Removal Products 660

25.9 Typical Quality Issues of Hair Removal Products 671

25.10 Evaluation of Hair Removal Products 671

25.11 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 672

25.12 Packaging of Hair Removal Products 673

Glossary of Terms 673

Abbreviations 674

References 674

26 Deodorants and Antiperspirants 677

Learning Objectives 677

Key Concepts 678

26.1 Introduction 679

26.2 Anatomy and Physiology of Human Sweat Glands 679

26.3 Types and Definition of Products Reducing Body Odor 682

26.4 History of Using Deodorants and Antiperspirants 683

26.5 How Deodorants and Antiperspirants May Affect the Human Skin and Body 684

26.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 685

26.7 The Mechanism of Action of Deodorant and Antiperspirant Ingredients 685

26.8 Most Common Product Forms of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 687

26.9 Formulation of Deodorant and Antiperspirant Products 691

26.10 Typical Quality Issues of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 692

26.11 Evaluation of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 694

26.12 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 696

26.13 Packaging of Deodorants and Antiperspirants 698

Glossary of Terms 699

Abbreviations 700

References 700

27 Baby Care Products 705

Learning Objectives 705

Key Concepts 706

27.1 Introduction 707

27.2 Anatomical and Physiological Differences Between Baby and Adult Skin and Hair 707

27.3 Types and Definition of Baby Care Products 710

27.4 History of Using Baby Care Products 711

27.5 How Baby Care Products May Affect Baby Skin Hair and Eyes 711

27.6 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 714

27.7 Types Typical Ingredients and Formulation of Baby Care Products 714

27.8 Typical Quality Issues of Baby Care Products 722

27.9 Evaluation of Baby Care Products 722

27.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 723

27.11 Packaging of Baby Care Products 724

Glossary of Terms 725

Abbreviations 725

References 726

28 Feminine Hygiene Products 731

Learning Objectives 731

Key Concepts 732

28.1 Introduction 733

28.2 Anatomy and Physiology of the Female Genital Area 733

28.3 Types and Definition of Feminine Hygiene Products 736

28.4 History of Using Feminine Hygiene Products 738

28.5 How Feminine Hygiene Products May Affect the Human Body and Female Genital Area 739

28.6 Required Qualities and Characteristics and Consumer Needs 741

28.7 Types Typical Ingredients  and Formulation of Feminine Hygiene Products 741

28.8 Typical Quality Issues of Feminine Hygiene Products 748

28.9 Evaluation of Feminine Hygiene Products 748

28.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 749

28.11 Packaging of Feminine Hygiene Products 750

Glossary of Terms 751

Abbreviations 752

References 752

29 Sunless Tanning Products 757

Learning Objectives 757

Key Concepts 758

29.1 Introduction 758

29.2 Types and Definition of Sunless Tanning Products 759

29.3 History of Using Sunless Tanning Products 759

29.4 How Sunless Tanners May Affect the Human Body 760

29.5 Required Characteristics and Consumer Needs 762

29.6 Types and Typical Ingredients of Sunless Tanning Products 762

29.7 Formulation Considerations 765

29.8 Typical Quality Problems of Sunless Tanners 767

29.9 Evaluation of Sunless Tanners 767

29.10 Ingredients Causing Safety Concerns 768

29.11 Packaging of Sunless Tanning Products 769

Glossary of Terms 769

Abbreviations 770

References 770

Index 773