Fundamental rules and principles are emphasised throughout. Aspects covered include flat, circular, full fashioned, hosiery, raschel, tricot and crochet production. Development of the various types of knitting machines, their actions and mechanisms as well as the construction, properties and end uses of the products which they manufacture are also included.
The book is indexed and referenced in detail and includes numerous labelled diagrams and photographs. Terminology is defined either according to The Textile Institute's terms and definitions or current usage in the industry and is supplemented where necessary by American or continental terminology. Although SI units and the tex yarn count system are explained and used in the text, other systems have also been employed wherever it has been considered that their usage is still important. A number of worked calculations are included to clarify the examples given.
Knitting technology is the ideal textbook for a range of textile courses from technician to degree level and The Textile Institute's examinations as well as being an essential companion to all those involved in the knitting industry.
- An essential reference for all textiles student textile engineers and technicians involved in knitted garment design and manufacture
David J. Spencer, C Text, FTI, ACFI, recently retired as a senior lecturer in Textile and Knitting Technology at De Montfort University Leicester. He has been an examiner and moderator in the Manufacture of Hosiery and Knitted Goods for the City and Guilds of London Institute. He has written numerous technical articles and is technical editor of the journal Knitting International and contributing editor of ATA Journal and China Textile Journal. He is Chairman of the Textile Institute Knitting Terms and Definitions Committee. He obtained his initial industrial experience with Corah of Leicester who were then world leaders in the application of knitting technology.
The third edition of Knitting Technology, widely recognised as the definitive text on the subject, has been thoroughly revised and updated to include all the latest developments. Beginning with the fundamental principles and moving on to more advanced aspects, it combines in a single comprehensive volume the basics of warp and weft knitting, fabric structures and products, the different types of machines, principles of production and terminology to provide an invaluable reference for textiles students, textile engineers and technicians involved in knitted garment design and manufacture.Fundamental rules and principles are emphasised throughout. Aspects covered include flat, circular, full fashioned, hosiery, raschel, tricot and crochet production. Development of the various types of knitting machines, their actions and mechanisms as well as the construction, properties and end uses of the products which they manufacture are also included.The book is indexed and referenced in detail and includes numerous labelled diagrams and photographs. Terminology is defined either according to The Textile Institute's terms and definitions or current usage in the industry and is supplemented where necessary by American or continental terminology. Although SI units and the tex yarn count system are explained and used in the text, other systems have also been employed wherever it has been considered that their usage is still important. A number of worked calculations are included to clarify the examples given.Knitting technology is the ideal textbook for a range of textile courses from technician to degree level and The Textile Institute's examinations as well as being an essential companion to all those involved in the knitting industry.An essential reference for all textiles student textile engineers and technicians involved in knitted garment design and manufacture
Front Cover 1
Knitting Technology: A Comprehensive Handbook and Practical Guide 4
Copyright Page 5
Table of Contents 8
Dadication 6
List of figures 16
Preface 23
Acknowledgements 25
Chapter
28
1.1 The evolution of textiles 28
1.2 Textile fabrics 28
1.3 Textile yarns and fibres 30
1.4 Yarn count numbering systems 31
1.5 Conversion formulae 32
Chapter 2. From hand knitting to hand frame knitting 34
2.1 The evolution of hand knitting 34
2.2 The spread of knowledge of hand pin knitting 34
2.3 The principles of hand knitting using two pins 35
2.4 The invention of the stocking hand frame 36
2.5 The bearded needle 37
2.6 The principles of frame knitting 37
2.7 The evolution of other weft knitting machines 39
2.8 The development of warp knitting 39
2.9 The potential of knitting technology 40
2.10 Meeting the challenge of new markets 41
Chapter 3. General terms and principles of knitting technology 43
3.1 Machine knitting 43
3.2 The knitted loop structure 43
3.3 A course 43
3.4 A wale 44
3.5 Stitch density 44
3.6 Technically upright 45
3.7 Design appearance requirements 45
3.8 The main features of the knitting machine 45
3.9 The needle 46
3.10 Fabric draw-off 46
3.11 The front of rectilinear needle bar machines 46
3.12 The basic knitting action of a needle 47
3.13 The bearded needle 47
3.14 The latch needle 49
3.15 Friction and frictionless needles 53
3.16 The bi-partite compound needle 53
3.17 A comparison of latch and compound needles 54
3.18 Machine gauge 56
Chapter 4. Basic mechanical principles of knitting technology 58
4.1 The sinker 58
4.2 The jack 60
4.3 Cams 60
4.4 The two methods of yarn feeding 63
4.5 The three methods of forming yarn into needle loops 64
Chapter
65
5.1 The needle loop 65
5.2 The sinker loop 66
5.3 Warp knitted laps 66
5.4 The overlap 67
5.5 The underlap 67
5.6 The closed lap 68
5.7 The open lap 68
5.8 Wrapping 69
5.9 The knitted stitch 69
5.10 The intermeshing points of a needle loop 70
5.11 The face loop stitch 70
5.12 The reverse loop stitch 70
5.13 Single-faced structures 71
5.14 Double-faced structures 71
5.15 A balanced structure 72
5.16 Face and reverse stitches in the same wale 72
5.17 Selvedged fabric 72
5.18 Cut edge fabric 72
5.19 Tubular fabric 72
5.20 Upright loop structures 73
5.21 Knitting notations 73
Chapter 6. Comparison of weft and warp knitting 75
6.1 Yarn feeding and loop formation 75
6.2 The two industries 76
6.3 Productivity 79
6.4 Machine design 79
6.5 Comparison of patterning and fabric structures 79
6.6 Course length and run-in per rack 80
6.7 Fabric quality 81
6.8 Structural modifications commonly used in weft and warp knitting 81
Chapter 7. The four primary base weft knitted structures 87
7.1 Introduction 87
7.2 Plain structure 88
7.3 Rib structure 94
7.4 Interlock structure 100
7.5 Purl structure 103
Chapter 8. The various types of weft knitting machines 109
8.1 Fabric machines and garment-length machines 109
8.2 Knitting welts and rib borders 110
8.3 Integral knitting 111
8.4 The three classes of weft knitting machines 112
Chapter 9. Stitches produced by varying the sequence of the needle loop intermeshing 117
9.1 Knitted stitches 117
9.2 The held loop 117
9.3 The drop or press-off stitch 118
9.4 The float stitch 119
9.5 Float plating 120
9.6 The tuck stitch 121
Chapter 10. Coloured stitch designs in weft knitting 127
10.1 Horizontal striping 128
10.2 Intarsia 129
10.3 Plating 131
10.4 Individual stitch selection 132
10.5 Jacquard design areas 137
10.6 Worked example 137
Chapter 11. Pattern and selection devices 142
11.1 Weft knitted patterns 142
11.2 Different lengths of butt 142
11.3 Different butt positions 144
11.4 Multi-step butt set-outs 145
11.5 Selection devices 145
11.6 Element selection 145
11.7 Selection area arrangement 147
11.8 Full jacquard mechanical needle selection 150
11.9 Multi-step geometric needle selection 150
11.10 Needle selection by disc 152
11.11 The pattern wheel 153
11.12 Pattern wheel design areas 155
11.13 Electronic needle selection 157
Chapter 12. Electronics in knitting 161
12.1 The disadvantages of mechanical control 161
12.2 The disadvantages of mechanical programming 161
12.3 The advantages of electronic control and programming 161
12.4 The compatibility of electronic signals and knitting data 162
12.5 Microprocessors and computers 163
12.6 The computerised knitting machine 163
12.7 Computer graphics and pattern preparation 164
12.8 The Stoll CAD pattern preparation system 167
12.9 The Shima total design system 171
Chapter 13. Circular fabric knitting 172
13.1 Weft knitted fabric production 172
13.2 Single- and double-jersey compared 173
13.3 Simple tuck and float stitch single-jersey fabrics 173
13.4 The history of double-jersey 174
13.5 Types of double-jersey structure 175
13.6 Non-jacquard double-jersey structures 175
13.7 Double jersey inlay 180
13.8 The modern circular fabric knitting machine 182
13.9 Versatility and quick response 184
13.10 The ‘contra’ knitting technique 185
13.11 Circular-machine production calculations 186
Chapter 14. Speciality fabrics and machines 188
14.1 The range of speciality fabrics 188
14.2 The production of fleecy on sinker-top machines 189
14.3 Fleecy interlock 191
14.4 Plush 191
14.5 The bearded needle sinkerwheel machine 192
14.6 Sinker plush knitted on single-jersey latch needle machines 192
14.7 Full-density patterned plush 194
14.8 Cut loop 194
14.9 Double-sided plush 194
14.10 Sliver or high-pile knitting 195
14.11 Wrap patterning 196
Chapter 15. Loop transfer stitches 198
15.1 Uses of loop transfer 198
15.2 The four main types of transfer stitches 198
Chapter 16. Welts, garment sequences and knitting to shape 206
16.1 The welt 206
16.2 Rib welts 208
16.3 Separation 210
16.4 Imparting shape during knitting 211
16.5 Integral garment knitting 220
Chapter 17. The straight bar frame and full-fashioning 221
17.1 The development of the straight bar frame 221
17.2 Fully-fashioned articles 223
17.3 Stocking production 223
17.4 Underwear and knitwear 223
17.5 Knitting motions of the straight bar frame 223
17.6 Knitting action of the plain straight bar frame 224
17.7 Loop transfer 228
17.8 The fashioning action 229
17.9 Automatic control 230
17.10 The welt 230
17.11 The rib-to-plain machine 231
17.12 Patterned structures 232
17.13 The challenge of latch needle machinery 232
Chapter 18. Flat knitting, basic principles and structures 234
18.1 History 234
18.2 The two types of flat machine 234
18.3 Flat machine gauges 235
18.4 Conversion from Cottons Patent to V-bed gauge 235
18.5 Knitting widths 235
18.6 Yarn counts 236
18.7 Simple hand-manipulated V-bed rib flat machines 236
18.8 Stitch cam settings 241
18.9 Spring-loaded cams 241
18.10 Two or more cam systems 242
18.11 Split cam-carriages 242
18.12 Direct and indirect yarn feed 243
18.13 Yarn carrier arrangement 243
18.14 Typical structures knitted on flat machines 245
Chapter 19. Automatic power flat knitting 251
19.1 History 251
19.2 The MacQueen concept 251
19.3 Power flat machines 252
19.4 The versatility of V-bed power flat knitting 252
19.5 Electronic controls replace mechanical controls 252
19.6 The garment sequence programme 253
19.7 Mechanical jacquard selection 253
19.8 The Shima Seiki electronic selection system 253
19.9 The take-down system 257
19.10 The fixed-stroke carriage traverse 257
19.11 Meeting the requirements of a shaping machine 258
19.12 The multiple-gauge technique 261
19.13 The split stitch 263
19.14 Multi-carriage flat machines 263
19.15 Seamless glove knitting 264
19.16 The WholeGarment knitting technique 264
19.17 The Shima model FIRST 267
19.18 The Tsudakoma TFK machine 268
Chapter 20. Circular garment-length machines 271
20.1 Circular versus flat machines 271
20.2 The double-cylinder garment-length machine 274
20.3 The RTR garment-length machine 277
20.4 Jumberca cylinder and dial and double-cylinder machines 280
20.5 Mecmor Variatex machines 280
20.6 The ‘seamless’ bodywear garment machine 282
Chapter 21. The manufacture of hosiery on small-diameter circular machines 283
21.1 Types of hosiery 283
21.2 Classes of hosiery machines 284
21.3 Gauge 285
21.4 The early development of ladies’ fine-gauge hosiery machines 285
21.5 The advent of nylon 286
21.6 Trends in fine-gauge hosiery since 1956 286
21.7 Ladder-resist structures 288
21.8 The development of the double-cylinder machine 289
21.9 Single-cylinder sock machines 289
21.10 Timing and control of mechanical changes on circular hosiery machines 289
21.11 Adjustment of loop length 291
21.12 The double-cylinder slider butt set-out 291
21.13 Production of heels and toes 292
21.14 Automatic separation 293
21.15 Seamed toe closing 294
21.16 Automatic toe closing on the knitting machine 294
21.17 Tights 297
Chapter 22. Aspects of knitting science 301
22.1 Knitted loop-shape and loop-length control 301
22.2 Loop length 302
22.3 Warp let-off 304
22.4 Weft knitted fabric relaxation and shrinkage 306
22.5 Knitted fabric geometry 307
22.6 Tightness factor 308
22.7 Robbing back 309
22.8 Needle bounce and high-speed knitting 310
22.9 The Cadratex unit 311
22.10 Positive needle control 311
Chapter 23. Basic warp knitting principles 313
23.1 Construction of warp knitted fabrics 313
23.2 The warp beams 314
23.3 The guide bar 314
23.4 The guides 314
23.5 Single needle bar structures 315
23.6 The pattern mechanism 316
23.7 The chain links 316
23.8 The electronic guide bar control system 318
23.9 The development of lapping diagrams and chain notations 318
23.10 Single- or double-needle overlaps 318
23.11 The five basic overlap/underlap variations 320
23.12 The direction of lapping at successive courses 320
Chapter 24. Classes of warp knitting machines 325
24.1 Characteristics of tricot and raschel machines 325
24.2 The tricot machine 325
24.3 The raschel machine 328
24.4 The compound-needle warp knitting machine 332
24.5 The crochet machine 333
24.6 The Waltex machine 338
24.7 Warping 338
Chapter 25. Plain tricot structures knitted with two full set guide bars 340
25.1 Rules governing two guide bar structures 340
25.2 Two bar tricot 343
25.3 Locknit 344
25.4 Reverse locknit 344
25.5 Sharkskin 344
25.6 Queenscord 345
25.7 Double atlas 346
25.8 Satin 346
25.9 Velour and velvet 346
25.10 Overfed pile structures 347
25.11 Typical run-in ratios for nylon yarns 348
Chapter 26. Surface interest, relief and open-work structures 349
26.1 Basic principles 349
26.2 Miss-lapping 350
26.3 Part-threaded guide bars 350
Chapter 27. ‘Laying-in’ and fall-plate 355
27.1 Laying-in and weft insertion 355
27.2 General rules governing laying-in in warp knitting 356
27.3 Mesh structures 357
27.4 Fall-plate patterning 357
27.5 Full-width weft insertion 360
27.6 Magazine weft insertion 361
27.7 Cut presser and miss-press structures 362
27.8 Spot or knop effects 364
27.9 Terry by the press-off method 365
Chapter 28. Multi guide bar machines and fabrics 367
28.1 The development of raschel lace 367
28.2 The success of raschel lace 367
28.3 Pattern guide bars 368
28.4 Guide bar nesting 369
28.5 Multi bar tricot lace machines 369
28.6 Chain links and electronic control of shogging 370
28.7 The summary drive 371
28.8 Raschel mesh structures 371
28.9 Marquisette and voile 375
28.10 Elasticised fabrics 376
28.11 Jacquard raschels 378
28.12 The Mayer Jacquardtronic multi-bar lace raschels 379
Chapter 29. Double needle bar warp knitting machines 384
29.1 Operating principles 384
29.2 Double needle bar basic lapping principles 385
29.3 Using two fully-threaded guide bars 385
29.4 The simplex machine 386
29.5 The double needle bar raschel 388
Chapter 30. Technical textiles 397
30.1 Markets for technical textiles 397
30.2 The properties of warp knitted structures 397
30.3 End-uses for technical textiles 398
30.4 Geotextiles 399
30.5 Knitted wire 399
30.6 The advantages of warp knitted nets 399
30.7 Composites 401
30.8 Warp knitted multi-axial weft insertion fabrics 401
30.9 Stitch bonding or web knitting 402
30.10 Spacer fabrics 403
30.11 Circular warp knitting 404
30.12 V-bed technical fabrics 404
Appendix 407
Index 408
Figures
1.1 Interweaving 2
1.2 Intertwining and twisting 2
1.3 Interlooping 3
2.1 The Madonna knitting Christ’s seamless garment 8
2.2 Hand pin knitting 8
2.3 The action of frame knitting 10
2.4 Hand frame (c. 1820) 11
2.5 Warp knitted fabric on the moon 13
3.1 Basic knitting action of a needle 20
3.2 Main parts of the bearded needle 21
3.3 Main features of the latch needle 23
3.4 Knitting action of the latch needle 25
3.5 Compound needle 27
3.6 Open-stem slide needle 27
4.1 Action of the loop-forming sinker 32
4.2 Action of the knock-over sinker 33
4.3 Loop forming by warp guides 33
4.4 Simple hand-turned Griswold type machine 36
5.1 Intermeshing points of a needle loop 38
5.2 Overlapping and underlapping (warp knitting) 39
5.3 The underlap shog 40
5.4 The closed lap 41
5.5 The open lap 41
5.6 The knitted stitch 42
5.7 An impossible intermeshing 43
5.8 Face- and reverse-meshed loops 44
6.1 Weft knitting 48
6.2 Warp knitting 49
6.3 Overlock seaming 50
6.4 Cup-seaming 50
6.5 Warp-knitted car upholstery 51
6.6 Loop extension and recovery 53
6.7 Yarn flow in knitted structure 53
6.8 Weft knitted loop transfer 53
6.9 The plating relationship of two yarns 56
6.10 Plating in weft knitting 57
6.11 Plating in warp knitting 57
6.12 The movement of loops to form open work 58
6.13 Bra and briefs made from elastic raschel lace fabric 59
7.1 The technical face of plain weft knitted fabric 61
7.2 The technical back of plain weft knitted fabric 62
7.3 The three-dimensional structure of plain weft knitting 62
7.4 Cross-section of knitting head of a single jersey machine 64
7.5 Knitting cycle of a single jersey latch needle machine 65
7.6 Sinker timing on a single jersey machine 66
7.7 Structure of 1 × 1 rib 67
7.8 Face and reverse loop wales in 1 × 1 rib 68
7.9 Rib set-outs 69
7.10 Knitting action of a circular rib machine 70
7.11 Needle cam timing for a circular rib machine 71
7.12 Synchronised timing 72
7.13 Delayed timing 72
7.14 Interlock fabric structure 73
7.15 Knitting interlock 75
7.16 Interlock cam system 76
7.17 Purl knitting using sliders 77
7.18 Purl fabric structure 77
7.19 Purl needle transfer action 79
7.20 Purl notation 79
7.21 Basket purl with a collecting course 80
7.22 Basket purl without a collecting course 80
7.23 Purl needle transfer using spring loaded cams 81
8.1 Sequential knitting 84
8.2 Mechanically controlled flat knitting machines 86
8.3 Mechanically controlled circular knitting machines 88
8.4 Mechanically controlled hosiery machines 88
9.1 Float stitch produced on a latch needle machine 91
9.2 Technical face of float stitch 92
9.3 Float plated fabric 93
9.4 Tuck stitch produced on a latch needle machine 94
9.5 Technical face of tuck stitch fabric 95
9.6 Commencing knitting on an empty rib needle 95
9.7 Successive tucks and floats on the same rib needle 96
9.8 Floating across four adjacent plain needles 97
9.9 Tucking over four adjacent plain needles 97
9.10 Selective tucking in the hook 98
9.11 Three step needle selection 98
9.12 Tucking on the latch 99
10.1 An attractive use of horizontal striping 101
10.2 Yarn carrier positioning for intarsia 102
10.3 Examples of intarsia designs knitted on an electronic V-bed machine 103
10.4 Single jersey jacquard 106
10.5 Accordion fabric 107
10.6 Rib jacquard 108
10.7 Three colour jacquard with birds eye backing 109
10.8 Combined links-links and three colour float jacquard 110
11.1 Miss, knit and tuck using different butt lengths 116
11.2 Multi-cam track needle butt control 117
11.3 Mirror repeat needle selection 119
11.4 The development of design areas using selection devices 121
11.5 Fixed pattern key selection 122
11.6 Geometric selection using Brinton trick wheels 124
11.7 Disc selection 126
11.8 Change of presser position from one revolution to the next 127
11.9 Three-step needle selection using a pattern wheel 128
11.10 The building of pattern areas over a number of machine revolutions using pattern wheel selection 129
11.11 Piezo-electronic rib jacquard machine 131
11.12 Moratronic needle selection 132
12.1 Electronic sampling machine 135
12.2 Knitting patterns and programmes generated using automatic routines 137
12.3 Simulated knit package 138
12.4 MKS knitting system for Windows 140
12.5 Linked windows options of fabric view and technical view 142
12.6 The FF programme inserts the control columns and, using the existing jacquard, generates the Sintral programme, which contains all the necessary data for machine control 143
13.1 Twill effects 146
13.2 Single jersey hopsack structure...
| Erscheint lt. Verlag | 27.4.2001 |
|---|---|
| Sprache | englisch |
| Themenwelt | Naturwissenschaften ► Chemie ► Technische Chemie |
| Technik ► Maschinenbau | |
| Wirtschaft | |
| ISBN-10 | 1-85573-755-8 / 1855737558 |
| ISBN-13 | 978-1-85573-755-6 / 9781855737556 |
| Haben Sie eine Frage zum Produkt? |
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