Wind Generated Ocean Waves (eBook)

Front Cover 1
Wind Generated Ocean Waves 4
Copyright Page 5
Contents 8
List of Major Symbols 14
Chapter 1. Introduction 20
Chapter 2. Wave Theory 22
2.1 Introduction 22
2.2 Small Amplitude or Linear Theory 22
2.3 Wave Transformation 33
2.4 Limitations of Linear Wave Theory 38
2.5 Spectral Representation of Waves 39
Chapter 3. Stochastic Properties of Ocean Waves 44
3.1 Introduction 44
3.2 Probability Distribution of Wave Heights 44
3.3 Global Distribution of Wave Properties 47
3.4 Limitations of Global Statistics 58
Chapter 4. Physical Mechanisms of Wave Evolution 60
4.1 Introduction 60
4.2 Radiative Transfer Equation 61
4.3 Atmospheric Input, Sin 64
4.4 Nonlinear Quadruplet Interactions, Snl 81
4.5 White-Cap Dissipation, Sds 96
4.6 The Spectral Balance 99
Chapter 5. Fetch and Duration Limited Growth 102
5.1 Introduction 102
5.2 Similarity Theory and Dimensionless Scaling 103
5.3 Growth Curves for Energy and Peak Frequency 104
5.4 One-Dimensional Spectrum 131
5.5 Directional Spreading 144
Chapter 6. Non-stationary Wind Fields 152
6.1 Introduction 152
6.2 The Interaction of Swell and Wind Sea 152
6.3 Rapid Change in Wind Speed 153
6.4 Rapid Change in Wind Direction 159
6.5 Hurricane Wind and Wave Fields 163
Chapter 7. Finite Depth Effects 180
7.1 Introduction 180
7.2 Physical Processes 181
7.3 Finite Depth Growth Curves 206
7.4 Finite Depth One-dimensional Spectra 213
7.5 Finite Depth Directional Spreading 218
Chapter 8. Numerical Modelling of Waves 222
8.1 Introduction 222
8.2 Phase Resolving Models 224
8.3 Phase Averaging Models 226
8.4 Source Term Representation 227
8.5 Computational Aspects 232
8.6 The WAM Model 237
8.7 Data Assimilation 243
Chapter 9. Ocean Wave Measurement 246
9.1 Introduction 246
9.2 In situ Methods 247
9.3 Data Analysis 251
9.4 Remote Sensing Techniques 263
Bibliography 274
Index 302