Following Miss Bell
Trailblazer Publications (Verlag)
978-1-912716-35-7 (ISBN)
Travel around Turkey in the footsteps of the great British archaelogist Gertrude Bell.
In 1889 Gertrude Bell, the great British archaeologist, writer and explorer, arrived in Constantinople (Istanbul) on the first of many visits to what is now Turkey. Over the next twenty-five years, she would travel the length and breadth of the country, climbing mountains Hasan and Cudi, crossing the Dicle (Tigris) on a raft of inflated goatskins and taking the earliest photographs of remote corners of the country.
Veteran guidebook writer Pat Yale set out to retrace Bell’s Turkish adventures as one British traveller following another. Her journey took her to the site on the Syrian border where she met Lawrence of Arabia, to forgotten monasteries with solitary occupants and to villages where the conversation of trilingual inhabitants recalled a more multicultural past. Along the way, she rubbed shoulders with adherents of faiths that barely survive in modern Turkey, with young men manning barricades in the troubled southeast and refugees struggling to make new lives, with settled nomads making a living from modern tourism and a myriad taxi drivers whose stories exemplify the Turkish dream.
Interwoven with each other, the tales of these two women’s travels evoke a Turkey of then and now that is so much more complex than its modern tourist image suggests.
Pat Yale studied history at Cambridge University before going to work in the travel industry. She then became a guidebook writer specialising in Turkey, primarily for Lonely Planet. Her articles have appeard in The Guardian, Daily Telegraph, Independent, Time Out Istanbul and many other publications. After 20 years in a cave-house in Cappadocia, she now lives in Istanbul.
PREFACE 7
Gertrude’s Spelling and Other Inconsistencies 12
The Turkish Language 12
PART ONE: Western Wanderings
1The First East 13
2The Topless Towers of Ilium 25
3Shopping like a Native 31
4The Mediterranean Race 40
5Alone with History and the Birds 51
6On the Tourist Trail 57
7Ephesus Quite to Ourselves 66
8Crossing the Meander 73
9From Exiles to Oligarchs 86
10In Brigand Country 93
11Claudius the Chippendale 102
12Moustaches and Marsyas 106
13Into the Turkish Lake District 115
14The Road Less Travelled 123
15The Unlikely Romance of Konya 133
16Backwater Byzantium 143
PART TWO: The Call of the East
17Şalvar with Strawberries 153
18Cardamon Coffee and Aleppo Number Plates 165
19The Room with Oxblood Walls 180
20A God Beneath a Mulberry Tree 187
21The Man in the Cummerbund 198
22City of Prophets 210
23The Sultan’s Man in Viranşehir 226
24How Light Mesopotamia Became 231
25The Twelve Wise Men 244
26In Search of Noah’s Ark 267
PART THREE: Homeward Bound
27The Shadow of the Dam 281
28The Zebra-Striped City 293
29Copper Mines and Opium Poppies 306
30The Devil versus the Kayserilis 320
31The Funniest Mountaineering 329
32Constantinople Swansong 346
Epilogue: A Lonesome Gallipoli Grave 366
Maps: Gertrude Bell’s Main Journeys Across Turkey 371
Acknowledgements 376
Further Reading 378
Glossary 381
Index 384
| Erscheinungsdatum | 01.09.2023 |
|---|---|
| Verlagsort | Hindhead, Surrey |
| Sprache | englisch |
| Maße | 135 x 216 mm |
| Themenwelt | Literatur ► Biografien / Erfahrungsberichte |
| Reisen ► Reiseberichte ► Europa | |
| ISBN-10 | 1-912716-35-6 / 1912716356 |
| ISBN-13 | 978-1-912716-35-7 / 9781912716357 |
| Zustand | Neuware |
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