Stories of Fashion, Textiles, and Place

Leslie Davis Burns is President and Founder of Responsible Global Fashion LLC and Professor Emerita of Apparel Design and Merchandising at Oregon State University. A scholar and educator around topics related to the international apparel industries, consumer behavior, and corporate social responsibility, Leslie is author of Sustainability and Social Change in Fashion (2019, Fairchild Books), Fashion Business Cases (2021, Fairchild Books) and co-author of The Business of Fashion (6th edition, 2020, Fairchild Books). She is also the Emeritus Editor of the Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases online resource. Jeanne Carver is an award-winning agricultural entrepreneur. She was named one of nine ‘Female Farmers Changing the Fashion Industry’ by the Pratt Institute of New York.

Preface

1. Sustainable Supply Chains in the Global Fashion Industry
Creating Value and Reflecting Values
The Value of Place
Sustainable Supply Chains
Environmental Sustainability
Social and Cultural Sustainability
Capacity Building and Employee Empowerment
Sustainable Communities
Cultural Traditions
Economic Sustainability
Supply Chain Traceability, Assurance, and Transparency
Certifications, Industry Associations, and Partnerships
Industry Initiatives, Associations, and Partnerships
Learning through Narratives
References and Resources

2. Imperial Stock Ranch and Shaniko Wool Company: Natural Adaptations
Lambing Season
Changing a Mindset: Imperial Stock Ranch, Oregon, USA
Starting a Yarn Business: Converting Sunlight Energy
From Yarn to Finished Items
Ready-to-Wear: Imperial Collection by Anna Cohen
Sustainable Bridges: East and West, Rural and Urban
The Business Naturally Adapts
“The Call”
The Power of Purpose beyond Profit
Expanding Markets
Traceability and Certification
A Sense of Place
References and Resources

3. Angela Damman Yucatán: Advancing Cultural Traditions
A Henequén Bag
The Yucatán Peninsula
Growing Up in Minnesota, USA
Moving to Yucatán
Sustainable Agriculture: Cultivating and Processing the Fiber
Processing the Fiber: Revitalizing an Industry
Shredding, Drying, Combing
Dyeing Fibers
Revitalizing the Fiber Processing Industry
Weaving and Product Development: Advancing Cultural Traditions
Facilitating Artisan Groups
A New Generation of Weavers
Markets and Retailing
Cultural Sustainability: Identity, Community, and Purpose
References and Resources

4. Tonlé
The Mekong and Tonlé Sap Rivers
Growing Up
The Dichotomy of Cambodian Textiles
A Reluctant Businesswoman
Transition and Rebranding
Zero-waste Model
The Artisan Workshop Model
The Impact and the Message of Tonlé
Today and Tomorrow
References and Resources

5. Indigenous Designs: Climbing a Mountain
Where Have You Been, My Friend?
A Brand Is Born
Climbing a Mountain
Beyond Ecuador
The Artisan Co-op Model
Economic Sustainability: Financial Strategies
Networks, Organizations, and Certifications
Documenting and Communicating Impact
Next Steps: Scaling an Artisan Ownership Model
References and Resources

6. Harris Tweed®: Às an ghearann tha an t-aodach a’ tighinn / From the Land Comes the Cloth Clò Mòr
History of the Harris Tweed Industry
Harris Tweed Act 1993 and the Harris Tweed Authority
Structure and Supply Chain of Harris Tweed
Crofting and Wool Production
Processing Wool: The Foundation of Harris Tweed
Harris Tweed Mills
Washing and Dyeing Wool
Blending, Carding, and Spinning Wool
Preparing the Warp
Textile Design
Weaving Harris Tweed
Harris Tweed Weavers
The Weaving Process
Finishing and Inspecting Harris Tweed
Marketing Harris Tweed: Power of the Orb
Marketing Harris Tweed
Markets for Harris Tweed: Tradition and Evolution
Using the Harris Tweed Label on Finished Products
Protecting the Orb
From the People Comes the Cloth
References and Resources

7. Creating and Reflecting Values through Sustainable Supply Chains
The Value of Place in Sustainable Supply Chains
The Value of People in Sustainable Supply Chains
The Value of Product in Sustainable Supply Chains
Characteristics of the Founders, CEO, Partners, and Artisans
References and Resources

Epilogue and Recommended Reading