Chapter 1

Master and Senior Surfers Surfing – The Elixir of Long life

This book is for surfers of all ages, shapes, genders and colors. But we will begin by looking at the primary health issues of those surfers whose memories go back before boards had keels and webcams monitored the waves.

Older surfers have significant differences in body composition, aerobic capacity and muscle strength than younger ones. Nevertheless, surfers with many years of regular training have much less decline in these areas than those who do not exercise or participate in sports. Many master surfers have played sports throughout their lives and are strong and flexible, with excellent cardiopulmonary capacity relative to their untrained peers.

Maximum heart rate and, subsequently, cardiac output decrease with age. Blood pressure also increases as blood vessels become less supple and respiratory capacity decreases due to the decreased elasticity of the lungs, chest wall, and pulmonary vasculature. Muscles and bones become weaker, and connective tissue loses flexibility and becomes more susceptible to injury.

Afonso Freitas, 76. He is considered the oldest surfer in Brazil. He is the author of the book Health in Our Hands.

Neuronal atrophy (aging of the nerves) may impair motor response, body awareness, balance, thirst, and thermo-regulation. Fat-free mass typically decreases and body fat increases. Women experience a redistribution of body fat with menopause.

Many of these changes are significantly attenuated by regular surfing combined with exercise that includes aerobic, strength, and flexibility training.

One of the most common diseases related to aging is arteriosclerosis, or the deposit of fats on arterial walls. It begins early, in babies, and progresses with age. There is truth to the saying: “The age of a person is determined by the age of his or her arteries.” The more fat on the arterial walls, the greater the difficulty blood will have in reaching the different portions of the body, in particular the heart and the brain, leading to premature aging.

Illustration 1: Increased fat deposits on arterial walls increase the risk of heart attack and stroke.

Arteriosclerosis, also known as chronic degenerative disease, is a leading cause of death. It is most severe among people 50 and older, when heart attack and stroke are most frequent.

With an increasing number of surfers over 50, the prevention of fatty deposits in the arteries is essential so that those who love the waves can continue to surf.

The principal risk factors for the deposit of fat on arterial walls are:

A Healthy Lifestyle is Essential for Prevention

Modern medicine has confirmed that it is possible to reduce the amount of fatty plaque on arterial walls by adopting a lifestyle that most surfers know well and which should include

The Therapeutic Effects of Surfing

Surfing regularly, in addition to reducing sedentary habits, combats obesity and diabetes, and reduces cholesterol, triglycerides, uric acid and blood sugar levels. It also helps to reduce high blood pressure and functions as a natural tranquilizer (except when there’s a crowd!). It even decreases the desire for alcohol and cigarettes.

Nevertheless, for an aerobic exercise such as surfing to have a protective effect on the body, it should be practiced under the following conditions:

Ari Ciampolini, 74, father of 5 surfers (in memoriam). He built his first board in the 1960s in Guarujá, São Paulo, a hollow plywood plank, with straight edges and no keels.

Surfing and Your Heart and Lungs

In a regular surfing session, a surfer spends 40-50% of the time paddling, 35-40% waiting for a wave and 5-10% surfing.

The average heart rate, during 60 minutes of surfing, is about 135 beats per minute (depending on the individual and the wave conditions). This characterizes surfing as an aerobic sport, which means it’s good for your heart.

Aerobic Capacity

Aerobic capacity is the ability of the body to assimilate and distribute oxygen to the muscles. Among men and women, maximum aerobic capacity, known as VO2 max, (see Chap. 25) typically decreases approximately 10% per decade after age 30. This decrease can be attenuated by surfing.

One study found no change in VO2 max over 10 years in a group that trained 3 hours per week at 86% of VO2max. Another study found that age-related loss of aerobic capacity was reduced by up to 50% in men who pursued regular endurance training.

The peak heart rate declines about 0.75 beats per minute per year. However, with training, aerobic capacity can increase in both older men and women.

Morongo, a Brazilian medical doctor and Mormaii owner enjoying Brazilian power in the early 70s.

What Happens to the Heart While Surfing?

Because of their training – and at times genetic composition – athletes, particularly those in endurance sports, have hearts that beat more efficiently and thus fewer times per minute than average people. A low heart rate, of about 70 beats per minute or fewer at rest, normally indicates good health and response to training.

Surfing increases the heart’s efficiency. The heart rate during surfing is a good parameter by which to measure your aerobic endurance.

The peak heart rate declines about 0.75 beats per minute per year. However, with training, aerobic capacity can increase in older surfers.

How to Calculate the Ideal Heart Rate for Your Aerobic Training Response

To calculate your ideal heart rate during training, use the following formula:

maximum heart rate = 220 – age.

Your heart rate when training should be between 65-80% of your maximum cardiac frequency.

For example, if you are 18 years old, your maximum heart rate should be 202 beats per minute. Thus you should exercise at an intensity where your heart rate is between 121 and 161 beats per minutes, or that is, you should be slightly winded, but still capable of speaking. See the table below to assist your calculation.

Table 1. Maximum Heart rate and zone of aerobic training by age

How to Monitor Your Heart Rate

You can monitor your heart rate during training by using a “Polar” monitor strapped with a belt around your chest that sends signals to a special meter that serves as a receiver. These devices usually do not work in the water but offer excellent monitoring during training on land.

If you do not have this type of device, take your pulse manually by lightly placing the index and middle fingers on the wrist or throat, as in the photos below. Count the number of beats in 15 seconds and multiply by 4 to obtain the number of beats per minute.

How to count your heartbeats

When Should I Calculate My Heart Rate?

Normally, the best moments to take your pulse are

If your pulse at rest is between 50-70 beats per minute this may indicate that surfing is increasing your aerobic capacity by reducing the heart rate at rest. This is good, your heart is working more efficiently!

Training Safety

Preliminary medical evaluation

Attention: If you are older than 30 and decide to begin surfing, running, cycling, or any other sports, you should have a complete medical examination before you begin. This check-up is especially important if you have a family history of heart disease or have been sedentary for a long time, have high blood pressure, diabetes, are overweight, smoke, suffer from...