Cape Verde

Murray Stewart enjoyed a previous life as a senior manager with the insolvency arm of a major international firm of accountants, before giving it up in 2009. Since then, he has indulged his twin passions for writing and travel, living in and writing about North Cyprus, France and Galicia. He has recently worked in Santander, recovering 11 million euros of debt on behalf of a UK bank, volunteered at the London Olympics, taught English, translated from French and Spanish and assisted on the National Census. He speaks French, Spanish, German and some 'learned-in-a-hurry' Portuguese. He will be based in Cape Verde for two months while updating the new edition.

Introduction ix
PART ONE GENERAL INFORMATION 1
Chapter 1 Background Information 3
Geography and climate 3, Natural history and conservation
5, History 10, Government and politics 27, Economy 28,
People 32, Language 36, Religion 36, Education 37, Culture
37
Chapter 2 P ractical Information 48
When to visit 48, Highlights 48, Suggested itineraries
53, Tour operators 54, Red tape 55, Getting there and
away 57, Health 60, Safety 67, Focus on specific groups
68, What to take 69, Money 70, Budgeting 71, Getting
around 71, Accommodation 76, Eating and drinking 77,
Public holidays and festivals 79, Shopping 80, Arts and
entertainment 80, Media and communications 81, Cultural
etiquette 82, Travelling positively 83, Living and Working
in Cape Verde 85, Investing in Cape Verde 88
PART TWO THE GUIDE 93
Chapter 3 Sal 94
Highlights 94, Lowlights 95, Background information 95,
Getting there and away 99, Getting around 102, Where to
stay and eat 103, Activities 103, Espargos 110, Santa Maria
das Dores 112, Other places to visit 126, Hikes 130
Chapter 4 Boavista 132
Highlights and lowlights 132, Background information
133, Getting there and away 140, Getting around 141,
Where to stay and eat 142, Activities 142, Sal Rei 147,
Other places to visit 154, Hikes 159
Chapter 5 Santiago 162
Highlights and lowlights 163, Background information 163,
Getting there and away 165, Getting around 167, Where to
stay and eat 167, Activities 168, Praia 170, Cidade Velha
179, Sao Domingos 184, Assomada 185, Serra Malagueta
188, Tarrafal 189, Other places to visit 191, Hikes 193
Chapter 6 Maio 200
Highlights and lowlights 200, Background information
201, Getting there and away 204, Getting around 204,
Where to stay 205, Activities 205, Cidade de Porto Ingles
(Vila do Maio) 206, Other places to visit 212
Chapter 7 Fogo 215
Highlights and lowlights 215, Background information
216, Getting there and away 220, Getting around 221,
Where to stay and eat 221, Activities 222, Sao Filipe 223,
Cha das Caldeiras 229, Mosteiros 233, Other places to visit
234, Hikes 234
Chapter 8 Brava 239
Highlights and lowlights 239, Background information
240, Getting there and away 243, Getting around 244,
Where to stay 244, Activities 244, Furna 244, Vila Nova
Sintra 245, Faja d'Agua 248, Other places to visit 249,
Drives 250, Hikes 251
Chapter 9 São Vicente 260
Highlights and lowlights 260, Background information
261, Getting there and away 265, Getting around 266,
Where to stay and eat 266, Activities 266, Mindelo 269,
Other places to visit 278
Chapter 10 Santo Antão 283
Highlights and lowlights 283, Background information
285, Getting there and away 287, Getting around 288,
Where to stay 289, Activities 289, The East 290, The West
305, Hikes 308
Chapter 11 São Nicolau 319
Highlights and lowlights 319, Background information
321, Getting there and away 324, Getting around 325,
Where to stay 326, Activities 326, Ribeira Brava 328,
Around Ribeira Brava 331, Tarrafal 331, North of Tarrafal
333, South of Ribeira Brava 334, The East 335, Hikes 338,
Raso and Branco 341
Appendix 1 Language 343
Appendix 2 Further Information 352
Index 357