Quality Assessment of Textiles

Fundamentals and Priming.- 1.1 Necessary Equipment.- 1.2 Preliminary Examination of Textile Test Material.- 1.3 Classical Examination Methods.- 1.4 Preparation of Negative Imprints with the Size of Microscope Slides.- 1.5 Preparation of Negative Imprints of Fibers and Yarns on Thermoplastic Films.- 1.6 Imprints of Larger Areas.- 1.6.1 Detection of Dyeing Unlevelness with the Aid of the Replication Method - Practical Example.- 1.6.2 Detection of Oil and/or Grease Soiling on Textile Fabrics.- 1.6.3 Detection of Structural Defects - Practical Example.- 1.6.4 Summarizing Evaluation of Large Imprints.- 1.7 Microtome Sections.- 2 Chemical Damage.- 2.1 Chemical Damage to Wool.- 2.1.1 The Pauly Reaction.- 2.1.2 Alkaline Damage to Wool and Wool-Like Natural Fibers.- 2.1.2.1 Dye Unlevelness in Wool Tops Made of Alkaline Damaged Wool
- Practical Example.- 2.1.2.2 Strength Loss in Wool, Caused by Alkalinely Reacting Untreated Yarn - Practical Example.- 2.1.2.3 Dye Stains on Polyester/Wool Due to Local Alkaline Damage to the Wool - Practical Example.- 2.1.2.4 Limits of the Pauly Reaction - Strong Alkaline Damage.- 2.1.3 Acid Damage to Wool.- 2.1.4 Chlorine Damage to Wool.- 2.1.4.1 Chlorination of a Wool Carpet (Gold Afghan), Increase of Luster, Gold Effects - Practical Example.- 2.1.4.2 Chlorination of Wool in the Non-Felting Finish.- 2.2 Chemical Damage to Silk.- 2.2.1 Chemical Composition, Structure and Microscopy of Silk.- 2.2.2 Detection of Chemical Damage to Silk with Pauly Reagent.- 2.2.3 Control of the Degumming Effect.- 2.3 Chemical Damage to Cotton.- 2.3.1 Microscopy of Cotton.- 2.3.2 Detection of Oxycellulose and Hydrocellulose.- 2.3.3 Bleaching Damage Due to Catalysts.- 2.3.4 Different Phenomena of Catalytic Bleaching Damage.- 2.3.4.1 Holes and Tears in a Bleached Cotton Fabric - Practical Example.- 2.3.4.2 Small Holes in a Bleached Cotton Fabric - Practical Example.- 2.4 Chemical Damage to Synthetics.- 2.4.1 Acid Damage to Polyamide Knitwear - Practical Example.- 2.4.2 Detection of Acid-Damaged Polyamide Fibers by Means of
Imprints - Practical Example.- 2.4.3 Acid Damage to Polyamide Stockings - Practical Example.- 2.4.4 Polyester Fabric with Acid Damage - Practical Example.- 2.4.5 Detection of Saponified Acetate Fibers.- 3 Mechanical Damage.- 3.1 Mechanical Damage to Wool.- 3.1.1 Mechanical Damage to a Blended Fabric Due to Abrasion on the Winch - Practical Example.- 3.1.2 Light Streaks and Stains on a Wool Fabric - Practical Example.- 3.1.3 Light Stains on a Wool Cloth Caused by Mechanical Damage During Shearing - Practical Example.- 3.1.4 Mechanical Damage Caused by Tearing Wool, Comparison with Recovered Wool.- 3.1.5 Mechanical Damage to Wool Fibers Caused by Wool Pests.- 3.2 Mechanical Damage to Silk.- 3.3 Mechanical Damage to Cotton.- 3.3.1 Light Streaks on a Black-Dyed Poplin Fabric - Practical Example.- 3.3.2 Mechanical Damage to a Feather Bed Ticking - Practical Example.- 3.3.3 Graying of a Dyed Cotton Fabric After Extended Use.- 3.3.4 Mechanically Damaged Cotton Threads of an Oriental Carpet- Practical Example.- 3.3.5 Darker Colored Streaks Due to Squashed Cotton Fibers- Practical Example.- 3.3.6 Crease Marks.- 3.4 Mechanical Damage to Cellulose Regenerated Fibers Graying During Dyeing on the Winch - Practical Example.- 3.5 Mechanical Damage to Synthetic Fibers.- 3.5.1 Graying of a Carpet Made of Acrylic Fibers - Practical Example.- 3.5.2 Graying of a Napped Blanket Material Made of Acrylic Fibers
- Practical Example.- 4 Thermal and Thermo-Mechanical Damage to Synthetics.- 4.1 Thermal Damage Caused by Direct Heat.- 4.1.1 Thermal Deformation of Synthetic Fibers During Setting.- 4.1.2 Weft Streaks in a Fabric Made of Polyester/Wool After Setting
- Practical Example.- 4.1.3 Graying in a Woven Fur Made of Polyvinyl Chloride and Acrylic Fibers After Drying - Practical Example.- 4.1.4 Thermal Deformations During Texturizing.- 4.1.5 Light Stains on a Printed Cotton Fabric Due to Melted,
Flat-Rolled Polypropylene Fibers - Practical Example.- 4.1.6 Singeing Damage to Synthetic Fibers.- 4.1.6.1 Dark Stains on a Gabardine Fabric After Singeing and Dyeing
- Practical Example.- 4.1.6.2 Stain Formation and Film-Like Coating Due to Thermally Deformed, Flat-Rolled Polyester Fibers - Practical Example.- 4.1.6.3 Streaks and Stains on a Singed Fabric Made of Polyester/Viscose Staple - Practical Example.- 4.1.6.4 Strength Loss After Singeing Due to Melting of Polyester Fibers- Practical Example.- 4.1.6.5 Streakiness After Singeing and Dyeing Due to Melted, Darker Dyed Polyamide Fibers - Practical Example.- 4.1.7 Damage Caused by Ironing.- 4.1.7.1 Light Stains on a Fabric Made of Polyester/Wool Caused by Ironing - Practical Example.- 4.2 Thermal Deformation of Synthetic Fibers Due to Frictional Heat.- 4.2.1 Streaks in a Piece of Knitwear Caused by Acrylic Fibers with Thermo-Mechanical Damage - Practical Example.- 4.2.2 Graying on a Dyed Acrylic Yarn - Practical Example.- 4.2.3 Light Patches on a Sewing Thread Made of Polyester Due to Thermo-Mechanical Damage - Practical Example.- 4.2.4 Thermal Deformation of Polyester Fibers as a Result of Excessive Spinning Speeds - Practical Example.- 4.2.5 Fiber Dust Formation During Twisting of a Polyester/Cotton
Yarn - Practical Example.- 4.2.6 Bar Formation Due to Polyester Fibers with ThermoMechanical Damage in a Fabric Made of Polyester/Wool - Practical Example.- 4.3 Thermal Damage to Synthetic Fibers due to Impact.- 4.3.1 Lighter Yarn Areas Due to “Shuttle Marks” on a Fabric Made of Acrylic Fibers - Practical Example.- 4.3.2 Light Streaks in a Black-Dyed Polyester Fabric Due to “Warp Splashes” - Practical Example.- 4.3.3 White Streaks in a Polyester/Acrylic Fabric Caused by “Warp Splashes” - Practical Example.- 4.4 Thermal Deformation of Synthetic Fibers Due to Cutting, Punching and Sewing.- 4.4.1 Thermally Bonded Cut Ends in Polyamide Short Staple.- 4.4.2 Streak Formation in a Plush Fabric Made of Acrylic Fibers - Practical Example.- 4.4.3 Streak Formation in a Velour Carpet Made of Polyamide - Practical Example.- 4.4.4 Streak Formation in a Velour Carpet Made of Polypropylene - Practical Example.- 4.4.5 Bonding of Punched Pieces of a Knitted Fabric Made of Polyamide - Practical Example.- 4.4.6 Detection of Cutting Defects on Polyester Fibers Through Dyeing of the Cut Ends.- 5 Streaks and Bars in Textile Fabrics Due to Yarn Differences
and Technological Reasons.- 5.1 Streaks Due to Variations in the Yarn Volume or Yarn Count.- 5.1.1 Streaks Parallel to the Threads in a Viscose Staple Fabric - Practical Example.- 5.1.2 Warp-Streaky Twill Due to Differences in the Yarn Count - Practical Example.- 5.1.3 Streak Formation in a Tubular Knitted Fabric, Made of Mercerized Cotton Yarn, Due to Differences in the Twisting Effects - Practical Example.- 5.1.4 Streaks and Bars in Cotton Fabrics Due to Varying Hairiness of the Weft Yarn - Practical Example.- 5.1.5 Streak Formation Due to Differently Twisted Mouliné Yarns - Practical Example.- 5.1.6 Warp Streakiness in a Polyester/Wool Fabric Due to Differences in Yarn Twist - Practical Example.- 5.1.7 Streakiness in a Piece of Knitted Fabric Made of Bulked Acrylic Yarn Due to Differences in Volume and/or in Bulking - Practical Example.- 5.2 Streaks and Bars Parallel to Threads Due to Yarn Mixture Errors.- 5.2.1 Dark Weft Bar in a Cotton Fabric After Dyeing - Practical Example.- 5.2.2 Weft Bars in a Fabric Made of Wool/Viscose Staple - Practical Example.- 5.2.3 Streaks in an Acrylic Fiber Fabric Due to Yarns of Different Origin - Practical Example.- 5.2.4 Warp Streaks in Polyamide Fabrics Due to Yarn Mixture Errors - Practical Example.- 5.2.5 Dye Unlevelness in Cotton Pieces due to Yarns Manufactured According to Different Spinning Processes - Practical Example.- 5.2.6 Warp Streaks and Bars Due to Yarns of Different Cotton Origin - Practical Example.- 5.2.7 Warp Streaks in a Black-Dyed Wool Fabric - Practical Example.- 5.2.8 Color Differences and Streaks in Ribbons Made of Secondary Acetate from Different Spinning Lots - Practical Example.- 5.3 Streak and Bar Formation Due to Other Yarn-Related Influences.- 5.3.1 Streaks Due to Incorrect Mercerization - Practical Example.- 5.3.2 Streaks Due to Differences in the Blend - Practical Example.- 5.3.3 Weft Streaks in a Polyamide Fabric Due to Absence of Protective Twist - Practical Example.- 5.3.4 Warp Streaks Due to Incorrect Texturing - Practical Example.- 5.4 Streaks in Pile Goods.- 5.4.1 Streaks Parallel to the Threads in a Tufted Carpet Made of Pure Wool, Caused by a Deeper Set Tuft Row - Practical Example.- 5.4.2 Streaks Parallel to the Threads in a Tufted Carpet Made of Pure Wool Due to Different Needling - Practical Example.- 5.4.3 Streak Formation in a Woven Wall-to-Wall Carpet Due to Yarn Differences - Practical Example.- 5.4.4 Streaks and Bars in Cotton Velvet Due to Differences in the Twisting of the Pile Yarns - Practical Example.- 5.4.5 Streakiness in a Viscose Staple Plush Due to Yarn Differences - Practical Example.- 6 Causes of the Formation of Tight Threads and Their Effects.- 6.1 Tight Threads in Wool Fabrics Caused by Uneven Yarn Moisture.- 6.1.1 Tight Picks in Wool Fabrics - Practical Example.- 6.1.2 Tight Threads in the Warp of a Wool Fabric - Practical Example.- 6.2 Tight Picks in a Fabric Made of Viscose- Practical Example.- 6.3 Tight Threads Caused by Different Yarn Twist - Practical Example.- 7 Defects Caused by Deposits and Encrustations on the Fiber Material.- 7.1 Detection of Oil, Grease, Paraffin or Wax Deposits by Means of Dyeing with Oil-Soluble Dyes.- 7.1.1 Dye Resisting Effects of a Polyamide Fabric - Practical Example.- 7.1.2 Warp Streakiness in a Lining Material Caused by Failure to Adequately Wash Out the Spin Finish - Practical Example.- 7.1.3 Streaks in Fulled Wool Fabrics Due to Differences in the Fiber Lubricant Pick-Up - Practical Example.- 7.1.4 Detection of Oil and/or Grease Soiling on Polyester.- 7.2 Detection of Oil, Grease, Wax and Paraffin Deposits by Means of Film Imprints.- 7.2.1 Light Stains Caused by Oil Soiling in a Wool Fabric After Dyeing - Practical Example.- 7.2.2 Reserved Areas Due to Oil Soiling in a Cotton Fabric - Practical Example.- 7.2.3 Streak Formation in Knitwear Caused by Uneven Paraffination - Practical Example.- 7.3 Detection of Pigment Deposits on Imprints.- 7.3.1 Reserved Areas in a Polyester/Cotton Fabric Due to Resin Deposits - Practical Example.- 7.3.2 Stain Formation Caused by Lime Deposits on Polyester Knitwear - Practical Example.- 7.3.3 Pigment Soiling on a Played Yarn Made of Acrylic Fibers - Practical Example.- 7.3.4 Speck-Like Dark Stains on a Cotton Fabric Caused by Undissolved Dye Particles - Practical Example.- 7.3.5 Graying and Light Stains on a Polyester Fabric Due to Oligomer Deposits - Practical Example.- 7.4 Detection of Film-Forming Products and Film-Like Deposits by Means of Imprints.- 7.4.1 Hardening of the Hand Due to Residues of Printing Paste Thickeners - Practical Example.- 7.4.2 Wool Fabric Showing Chalky Marks when Scratched, Caused by the Backing - Practical Example.- 7.4.3 Printed Fabric Made of Silk/Viscose with Hardened Areas Caused by Adhesives for the Printing Table - Practical Example.- 7.4.4 Deposits of Sizing Agent on the Weft Yarns of a Polyester/Cotton Fabric - Practical Example.- 7.5 Detection of Deposits in Staining Tests, Yarn Cross-Sections and/or Fabric Cross-Sections.- 7.5.1 Evaluation of Sizing Agent Distribution on Yarn Cross-Sections by Staining of the Starch Sizing Agent with Iodine Solution.- 7.5.2 Oversized Warp Threads - Practical Example.- 7.5.3 Detection of Durable Antistatics by Staining.- 7.5.4 Black Specks in a Polyester Curtain Fabric After Bleaching - Practical Example.- 8 Other Defects in the Quality of Textiles.- 8.1 Skittery Dyed Wool Yarn - Practical Example.- 8.2 Uneven Wool Printing - Practical Example.- 8.3 Small Light Spots Caused by Trapped Air Bubbles During the Dyeing of Wound Packages.- 8.4 Dye Unlevelness in Polyester Knitwear Caused by Water Drops - Practical Example.- 8.5 Dye Unlevelness Within a Spinning Lot Due to Separation of the Fiber Components - Practical Example.- 8.6 Darker Specks of Dyed Feather Bed Ticking Due to Non- Decomposed Seed Husks - Practical Example.- 8.7 Spots Due to Dark-Dyed Fly Fibers - Practical Example.- 8.8 Red Specks Due to Dyed, Melted and Flat-Rolled Man-Made Fly Fibers on a White Viscose Staple Fabric.- 8.9 Light, Undyed Short Bristly Fibers in a Wool Yarn - Practical Example.- 8.10 Gray, Dot-Like Stains on Needlefelt Sheets - Practical Example.- 8.11 Running Marks in a Cotton Tricot Fabric - Practical Example.- 8.12 Shade Differences in Dress Fabrics Due to Different Hairiness - Practical Example.- 8.13 Brittle, Dope-Dyed Acrylic Fiber Material on the Carding Machine and Drawing Frames - Practical Example.- 8.14 Light Specks in a Milled Terry Towelling Fabric Due to Dead Cotton - Practical Example.- 8.15 Bonded Yarns in a Cotton Cross-Wound Bobbin - Practical Example.- 8.16 Knitted Goods Sticking Together in Garment Production Due to Hairiness of Cotton Yarn - Practical Example.- 8.17 Cotton Fabrics With Side-to-Center Shading Due to Uneven Squeezing Effects - Practical Example.- 9 Microbiological Damage to Fibers.- 9.1. Damage Caused by Fungi.- 9.1.1 Mould Attack on Cotton - Practical Example.- 9.1.2 Mould Attack on Sausage Yarn Made of Hemp - Practical Example.- 9.1.3 Mould Attack on Packing Cords Made of Hemp - Practical Example.- 9.1.4 Mould Attack on Viscose Staple - Practical Example.- 9.1.5 Moulds on a Blended Fabric Made of Polyester/Cotton - Practical Example.- 9.1.6 Moulds on a Sized Polyester Fabric - Practical Example.- 9.1.7 Moulds on a Polyester Yarn - Practical Example.- 9.1.8 Dark Stains on a Wool Fabric Caused by Moulds - Practical Example.- 9.1.9 Cross-Wound Bobbins Made of Wool with Brownish and Dark Green Mould Stains - Practical Example.- 9.1.10 Warp Beams Made of Polyamide/Wool with Differently Colored Mildew Spots - Practical Example.- 9.2 Damage Caused by Bacteria.- 9.2.1 Bacterial Attack on a Military Cloth - Practical Example.- 9.2.2 Bacterially Damaged Carpet Yarn - Practical Example.- 9.2.3 Streak Formation in a Dyed Fabric Made of Polyester/Wool Caused by Bacterial Attack - Practical Example.- References.- Figures.- Appendix: Technical Equipment, Chemicals, Reagents and Dyes for the Microscopic Damage Analysis.