African-Print Fashion Now!

A Story of Taste, Globalization, and Style

Suzanne Gott, Kristyne S. Loughran, Betsy D. Quick, Leslie W. Rabine (Herausgeber)

Buch | Softcover

304 Seiten

2017
Fowler Museum at UCLA (Verlag)
978-0-9907626-3-8 (ISBN)

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African-Print Fashion Now! introduces visitors to a dynamic and diverse African dress tradition and the increasingly interconnected fashion worlds that it inhabits: “popular” African-print styles created by local seamstresses and tailors across the continent; international runway fashions designed by Africa’s newest generation of couturiers; and boundary-breaking, transnational, and youth styles favored in Africa’s urban centers. All feature the colorful, boldly designed, manufactured cotton textiles that have come to be known as “African-print cloth.”

The book tells the global stories of these textiles—the early history of the print cloth trade in West and Central Africa, the expansion of production following independence movements, and the increasing popularity of Asian-made print cloth today. Popular African styles from Ghana, Nigeria, Cote d’Ivoire, Cameroon, and Senegal are featured, as well as groundbreaking runway fashions by some of Africa’s most talented couturiers: Ituen Basi, Gilles Touré, Lanre da Silva Ajayi, Titi Ademola, Lisa Folawiyo, Dent de Man, Adama Paris, Patricia Waota, Ikiré Jones, and Afua Dabanka. Black-and-white studio portraits illuminate print fashions of the 1960s and 1970s, while works by contemporary artists incorporate African print to convey evocative messages about heritage, hybridity, displacement, and aspiration.

Contemporary photographs by Omar Victor Diop, Leonce Raphael Agbodjelou, and Hassan Hajjaj; paintings by Njideka Akunyili Crosby and Eddy Kamuanga Ilunga; and a mural by graffiti artist Docta suggest the ever-present role of fashion in African life. Throughout the volume, African-print fashions are considered as creative responses to key historical moments and the imaginings of Africa in the future.

Foreword / Marla C. Berns

Acknowledgments / Suzanne Gott, Kristyne S. Loughran, Betsy D. Quick, and Leslie W. Rabine

Prologue: Notes on Fashioning Art across Africa / John Picton

Introduction: Introducing African-Print Fashion / Suzanne Gott and Kristyne S. Loughran

Part One | African-Print Cloth: Origins and Transformations

1. Dutch Wax Classics: The Designs Introduced / Ebenezer Brown

Fleming circa 1890–1912 and Their Legacy / Helen Elands

Interleaf A: Design at Vlisco / M. Amah Edoh

Interleaf B: Designing for Wax Prints at ABC / Helen Elands

2. African Prints/African Ownership: On Naming, Value, and Classics / Kathleen Bickford Berzock

Interleaf C: African Prints Made in Europe / Betsy D. Quick

3. “Bringing Fabrics to Life”: Akosombo Textiles Limited of Ghana / Stephan F. Miescher

Interleaf D: African Prints Made in Africa / Suzanne Gott

Interleaf E: African-Print Cloth in Abidjan: A Success Story / Anne Grosfilley

4. Real/Fake: Brands, Labels, and China in West Africa / Nina Sylvanus

Interleaf F: African Prints Made in Asia: China, India, and Pakistan / Leslie W. Rabine

Part Two | Fashioning Identities, Expanding Styles

5. Portraits in Print / Leslie W. Rabine

6. “Life” Dressing in Kumasi: African-Print Style in “Popular” Fashion / Suzanne Gott

Interleaf G: Nsaasaawa: Ghanaian Patchwork from the Kitchen to the Catwalk / Boatema Boateng

Interleaf H: From Grandmother’s Dress to the Fashion Runway Chitenge styles in Zambia / Karen Tranberg Hansen

7. Ankara Fashions in Nigeria / Elisha P. Renne

Interleaf I: Shopping in Abidjan with Saundra Lang / Leslie W. Rabine

8. Voices on the Runway: African Prints and African Fashion Designers / Kristyne S. Loughran

Interleaf J: Claire Kane Guaranteed Wax Collection and the Photography of Omar Victor Diop / Ken Aicha Sy

Part Three | New Directions

9. Vlisco—Rebranding into Fashion / Suzanne Gott and Kristyne S. Loughran

Interleaf K: Re-Dressing the Past Vlisco’s Entry into Post-Apartheid South Africa / Sandra Klopper

10. Designing Futures, Virtual Communities and Fashion Weeks: Push African-Print Fashion Forward / Helen Jennings

Interleaf L: The Eternal Return of Fashion Angelina, the Dashiki, and Twenty-First-Century African Fashion / Leslie W. Rabine

11. From Colonialism to Hip-Hop Style African-Print Fashion in Senegal / Leslie W. Rabine

12. In the Making: African-Print Fashion and Contemporary Art / Hansi Momodu-Gordon

Afterword: Cloth, Dress, and Drama / Victoria L. Rovine

Notes to the Text

References Cited

Index

Contributors

Erscheinungsdatum	30.09.2017
Reihe/Serie	African-Print Fashion Now!
Zusatzinfo	363 illus., 333 in color
Verlagsort	Los Angeles
Sprache	englisch
Maße	229 x 305 mm
Gewicht	1633 g
Themenwelt	Kunst / Musik / Theater ► Design / Innenarchitektur / Mode
	Kunst / Musik / Theater ► Kunstgeschichte / Kunststile
	Sachbuch/Ratgeber ► Freizeit / Hobby ► Handarbeit / Textiles
	Geisteswissenschaften ► Geschichte ► Regional- / Ländergeschichte
	Sozialwissenschaften
ISBN-10	0-9907626-3-7 / 0990762637
ISBN-13	978-0-9907626-3-8 / 9780990762638
Zustand	Neuware