Science for Hairdressing Students (eBook)

Front Cover 1
Science for Hairdressing Students 4
Copyright Page 5
Table of Contents 8
Preface 6
Acknowledgements 7
Introduction 10
An Introductory Read 16
0.1 VISITING THE SALON 16
0.2 HOW DO WE KNOW WHAT IS TRUE? 16
0.3 WHY SHOULD I BOTHER READING ANY FURTHER? 18
Study Topics 20
Chapter 1.0 Hair Shampooing— Water 22
1.1 HOW TO SHAMPOO 22
1.2 WHY DO WE USE WATER? 22
1.3 WHAT IS WATER? 23
1.4 DOES WATER SOAK INTO THE HAIR? 23
1.5 DOES WATER "WET" THE HAIR? 23
1.6 HOW DOES THE WETTING AGENT WORK? 24
1.7 DOES WATER GET RID OF GREASE ON HAIR? 24
1.8 WHY DOES SOME WATER NOT LATHER VERY WELL WITH SOAPS? 25
1.9 WHAT ARE THE DISADVANTAGES OF HARD WATER IN THE SALON? 25
1.10 HOW DO WE SOFTEN HARD WATER? 26
1.11 WHERE DOES WATER COME FROM? 27
1.12 HOW DOES THE WATER REACH THE SALON? 27
1.13 HOW IS THE WATER PIPED AROUND THE BUILDING? 28
1.14 HOW IS THE WATER HEATED BEFORE USE IN THE SALON? 28
1.15 WHAT ABOUT BASINS, TRAPS, TAPS AND DRAINS? 30
Chapter 2.0 Hair Shampooing — Detergents 35
2.1 WHAT ARE SHAMPOOS? 35
2.2 WHAT ARE DETERGENTS? 35
2.3 WHAT IS A SOAP DETERGENT? 35
2.4 WHAT IS A SOAPLESS DETERGENT? 36
2.5 HOW DO SOAP AND SOAPLESS DETERGENTS COMPARE? 36
2.6 HOW DOES A SHAMPOO WORK? 37
2.7 BESIDES DETERGENT, WHAT ELSE IS THERE IN A SHAMPOO? 38
2.8 WHAT SHOULD WE LOOK FOR IN A GOOD SHAMPOO? 39
2.9 WHAT TYPES OF SHAMPOO ARE AVAILABLE? 39
Chapter 3.00 Hair Colouring 40
3.1 HOW TO APPLY A TEMPORARY HAIR COLOUR 40
3.2 WHAT ARE TEMPORARY HAIR COLOURS? 40
3.3 WHAT ARE THE USES OF TEMPORARY COLOURS? 41
3.4 WHAT IS THE STRAND TEST? 41
3.5 HOW TO APPLY A SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR 41
3.6 WHAT ARE SEMI-PERMANENT HAIR COLOURS? 41
3.7 WHAT ARE THE USES OF SEMI-PERMANENT COLOURS? 42
3.8 WHAT IS A PATCH TEST 42
3.9 HOW TO APPLY A PERMANENT HAIR COLOUR 42
3.10 WHAT IS A PERMANENT HAIR DYE? 43
3.11 HOW DO PERMANENT HAIR DYES WORK? 43
3.12 HOW CAN WE SPEED UP PERMANENT HAIR DYE PROCESSES? 43
3.13 WHAT IS A STEAMER? 43
3.14 WHAT IS AN ACCELERATOR? 44
Chapter 4.00 Hair Lightening 45
4.1 HOW TO APPLY A HAIR LIGHTENER 45
4.2 WHAT IS A HAIR LIGHTENER OR "BLEACH"? 45
4.3 HOW DO HAIR LIGHTENERS WORK? 46
4.4 WHAT IS HYDROGEN PEROXIDE? 46
4.5 HOW DO WE DESCRIBE THE STRENGTH OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE? 46
4.6 HOW DOES PERCENTAGE SOLUTION RELATE TO VOLUME STRENGTH? 47
4.7 HOW DO WE DILUTE STOCK SOLUTIONS OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE? 47
4.8 HOW DO WE STORE HYDROGEN PEROXIDE? 48
4.9 WHAT IS A CATALYST? 48
4.10 WHAT DO THE AMMONIUM COMPOUNDS DO IN "BLEACHING"? 48
4.11 HOW CAN WE MEASURE THE STRENGTH OF AMMONIA SOLUTION? 48
4.12 WHAT DOES IT MEAN WHEN WE SAY AMMONIA IS 0.88? 49
4.13 WHAT SORT OF THING CAN GO WRONG DURING "BLEACHING"? 49
4.14 WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF AFTER "BLEACH" TREATMENTS? 49
4.15 WHY DOES "BLEACHED" HAIR SOMETIMES TURN A BRASSY YELLOW? 49
Chapter 5.0 Hair Waving 51
5.1 HOW TO PERMANENT WAVE THE HAIR 51
5.2 HOW TO APPLY COLD-WAVE PERM LOTION 51
5.3 HOW TO "NEUTRALISE" THE PERM 52
5.4 WHAT IS COLD-WAVE PERM LOTION? 52
5.5 WHAT IS A PERM "NEUTRALISER" 52
5.6 HOW DOES THE PERM LOTION WORK? 53
5.7 HOW DOES THE "NEUTRALISER" WORK? 54
5.8 HOW CAN WE STRAIGHTEN 
 
54 
5.9 WHAT ARE THE STRAIGHTENING REAGENTS? 55
5.10 HOW CAN WE TEMPORARILY "DE-KINK" CURLY HAIR? 56
5.11 HOW TO HEAT-WAVE THE HAIR 56
5.12 WHAT ARE HEAT-WAVE LOTIONS? 56
5.13 HOW DOES HEAT-WAVING WORK? 57
5.14 HOW DO WE PERM DAMAGED OR PREVIOUSLY TREATED HAIR? 57
Chapter 6.0 Hair Setting 58
6.1 WHAT DO WE MEAN BY A HAIR SET? 58
6.2 HOW CAN WE EXPLAIN HAIR SETTING? 58
6.3 COHESIVE SET — EXPLAINED 59
6.4 TEMPORARY SET — EXPLAINED 59
6.5 WHAT ARE SETTING LOTIONS? 60
6.6 WHAT IS A HAIR LACQUER? 60
6.7 HOW DO HAIR LACQUER AEROSOL CANS WORK? 60
6.8 WHAT IS HAIR CONDITIONING? 61
6.9 WHEN AND WHY DO WE USE CONDITIONERS? 
61 
Chapter 7.00 Hair Drying 62
7.1 HOW DOES DRYING THE HAIR WITH A TOWEL WORK? 62
7.2 HOW DOES A HAIR DRYER DRY THE HAIR? 62
7.3 HOW DO HAIR DRYERS WORK? 62
7.4 HOW IS THE TEMPERATURE OF A DRYER REGULATED? 63
7.5 WHAT IS AN INFRA-RED DRYER? 63
7.6 HOW MUCH HEAT DO HAIR DRYERS GIVE OFF? 64
7.7 HOW IS THE HEAT PRODUCED BY HAIR DRYERS? 64
7.8 HOW MUCH ELECTRICITY DOES A HAIR DRYER USE? 65
Chapter 8.0 Scalp and Skin Treatments 66
8.1 VIBRATOR MACHINE TREATMENTS 66
8.2 HIGH FREQUENCY TREATMENTS 66
8.3 WHAT HAPPENS WHEN HIGH FREQUENCY APPARATUS IS USED? 66
8.4 HOW DO WE REMOVE UNWANTED HAIR BY ELECTROLYSIS? 67
8.5 HOW DO WE REMOVE UNWANTED HAIR BY CHEMICALS? 68
Chapter 9.0 Chemicals in the Salon 69
9.1 WHAT ARE CHEMICALS? 69
9.2 WHAT CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS ARE USED IN THE SALON? 70
9.3 WHAT PHYSICAL CHANGES TAKE PLACE IN OUR SALON WORK? 70
9.4 WHAT CHEMICAL CHANGES TAKE PLACE IN SALON WORK? 72
9.5 WHAT CHEMICAL CHANGES TAKE PLACE IN THE LABORATORY? 73
9.6 WHAT ARE ACIDS AND ALKALIS? 73
9.7 WHAT IS A SALT? 74
9.8 WHAT CHEMICALS DO WE ENCOUNTER IN SALON WORK? 74
9.9 WHAT IS A CHEMICAL SOLUTION? 76
9.10 WHAT IS AN EMULSION? 76
9.11 WHAT EMULSIFYING AGENTS ARE USED IN SALON WORK? 76
9.12 WHAT SOLVENTS ARE USED OTHER THAN WATER? 77
9.13 WHAT IS THE CHEMICAL MAKE-UP OF THE PREPARATIONS WE USE? 77
Chapter 10.0 Electricity in the Salon 78
10.1 WHAT IS ELECTRICITY? 78
10.2 HOW CAN WE MAKE ELECTRICITY? 78
10.3 WHAT ARE VOLTS AND AMPERES? 79
10.4 WHAT IS AN 'ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT'? 81
10.5 WHAT IS AN ELECTRICAL CONDUCTOR AND AN ELECTRICAL INSULATOR? 81
10.6 HOW CAN WE PROTECT OURSELVES FROM ELECTRIC SHOCKS? 83
10.7 WHAT DOES OVERLOADING THE CIRCUIT MEAN? 83
10.8 HOW CAN WE OVERLOAD A CIRCUIT? 84
10.9 WHAT HAPPENS IF WE OVERLOAD THE CIRCUIT? 84
10.10 WHAT IS A CIRCUIT BREAKER? 85
10.11 WHAT CAUSES A FUSE TO BLOW? 85
Chapter 11.0 The Atmosphere in the Salon 86
11.1 WHAT IS AIR MADE FROM? 86
11.2 WHAT DOES AIR PRESSURE MEAN? 86
11.3 HOW CAN WE SHOW ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE? 86
11.4 HOW MUCH IS THE ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE? 86
11.5 HOW DOES A BAROMETER WORK? 87
11.6 HOW IS THE SALON AIR TEMPERATURE REGULATED? 87
11.7 WHAT ARE THE ALTERNATIVES TO AUTOMATIC AIR CONDITIONING? 87
11.8 WHAT MAKES FOR A COMFORTABLE ATMOSPHERE IN THE SALON? 87
11.9 HOW CAN WE CREATE A GOOD WORKING ATMOSPHERE? 90
11.10 WHAT ARE THE BEST POSITIONS FOR MIRRORS? 90
11.11 HOW DO MIRRORS WORK? 90
11.12 WHAT IS THE BEST TYPE OF LIGHTING FOR SALON WORK? 90
11.13 WHAT IS WHITE LIGHT? 91
11.14 HOW ARE COLOURS PRODUCED? 93
Chapter 12.0 Safety and Hygiene in the Salon 94
12.1 Safety 94
12.2 HYGIENE 95
12.3 Disinfection in the Salon 98
12.4 WASTE PIPES AND DRAINS 99
12.5 LEGAL REQUIREMENTS 100
Chapter 13.0 The Human Body 101
13.1 CELLS, TISSUES AND ORGANS 101
13.2 BONES 101
13.3 MUSCLES 103
13.4 SOME OF THE MAIN ORGANS OF THE BODY 104
13.5 BREATHING 105
13.6 BLOOD 107
13.7 THE NERVOUS SYSTEM 109
13.8 REGULATION OF BODY TEMPERATURE 110
Chapter 14.0 The Head 112
14.1 BONES OF THE HEAD 112
14.2 THE SCALP 113
14.3 MUSCLES OF THE FACE 114
14.4 NERVES OF THE HEAD 115
14.5 THE NECK 115
Chapter 15.0 The Skin 116
15.1 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ABOUT THE SKIN 116
15.2 FUNCTIONS OF THE SKIN 117
15.3 THE STRUCTURE OF THE SKIN 117
15.4 DISORDERS OF SKIN AND SCALP 119
Chapter 16.0 Hair 122
16.1 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 122
16.2 THE STRUCTURE OF HAIR 122
16.3 THE HAIR FOLLICLE 124
16.4 THE GROWTH OF A HAIR 126
16.5 ABNORMALITIES IN HAIR GROWTH AND CONDITION 128
16.6 FUNCTIONS OF HAIR 129
Chapter 17.0 Hands, Feet and Nails 130
17.1 HANDS 130
17.2 FEET 131
17.3 NAILS 132
17.4 NAIL DISORDERS 133
Chapter 18.0 Nutrition 135
18.1 NUTRIENTS 135
18.2 WATER 135
18.3 DIET 136
18.4 DIGESTING FOOD 136
Chapter 19.0 Infection and Infestation 139
19.1 PLANTS WHICH CAUSE DISEASE 139
19.2 ANIMALS WHICH INFEST THE BODY 140
19.3 BACTERIA AND VIRUSES 
142 
19.4 SOME DISEASES CAUSED BY BACTERIA 142
19.5 SOME DISEASES CAUSED BY VIRUSES 144
19.6 HAIRDRESSERS SHOULD BE AWARE OF A CONDITION KNOWN AS CONJUNCTIVITIS 145
Chapter 20.00 The Personal Hygiene of the Hairdresser 146
20.1 DIET 146
20.2 CLEANLINESS 146
20.3 YOUR HANDS 146
20.4 YOUR FEET 147
20.5 YOUR MOUTH AND THROAT 147
20.6 YOUR CLOTHES 148
20.7 YOUR RECREATION AND REST 148
Chapter 21.00 First Aid for Emergencies and Accidents 150
21.1 BASIC EQUIPMENT 150
21.2 FIRST AID IN THE SALON 151
Chapter 22.0 Laboratory Exercises for the Cosmetologist 158
HOW TO SET ABOUT DOING LABORATORY WORK 158
TRY SOME OF THE FOLLOWING LABORATORY EXERCISES 158
22.1 HOW TO MAKE PURE WATER (DISTILLED AND DE-IONISED WATER) 159
22.2 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE EVAPORATION 160
22.3 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE CONDENSATION 160
22.4 HOW TO MAKE SOLUTIONS AND EMULSIONS 160
22.5 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE THE SURFACE TENSION OF WATER 161
22.6 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE CAPILLARY ACTION 162
22.7 HOW TO MAKE A HYGROMETER 162
22.8 HOW TO FIND OUT THE RELATIVE DENSITY (OR SPECIFIC GRAVITY) OF SOME SALON MATERIALS 162
22.9 HOW TO MAKE AND USE A HYDROMETER 164
22.10 HOW TO MEASURE pH VALUES OF SALON REAGENTS 165
22.11 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE CHEMICAL REACTIONS 166
22.12 HOW TO MAKE A SALT BY NEUTRALISATION 167
22.13 HOW TO MAKE A COLD-WAVE SALT (AMMONIUM THIOGLYCOLLATE) 167
22.14 HOW TO SHOW WHAT HAPPENS WHEN DRY HAIR IS STRETCHED 167
22.15 HOW TO SHOW WHAT HAPPENS WHEN WET HAIR IS STRETCHED 168
22.16 HOW TO SHOW WHAT HAPPENS WHEN HAIR IS HEATED 169
22.17 HOW TO USE A MICROSCOPE TO EXAMINE HAIR 169
22.18 HOW TO MAKE A HARD SOAP 170
22.19 HOW TO MAKE A SOFT SOAP 170
22.20 HOW TO MAKE A SOAPLESS SHAMPOO (CREAM-TYPE) 171
22.21 HOW TO COMPARE A SOAP AND SOAPLESS DETERGENT 172
22.22 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE THE WETTING ACTION OF A SHAMPOO 172
22.23 HOW TO USE A THERMOMETER 172
22.24 HOW TO SHOW THE ACTION OF AN OXIDATION (PARA-DYE) TINT 174
22.25 HOW TO SHOW THE ACTION OF A SEMI-PERMANENT COLOUR 174
22.26 HOW TO SHOW THE ACTION OF HAIR LIGHTENERS 175
22.27 HOW TO MAKE A "BLEACH" (WHITE HENNA) 175
22.28 HOW TO SHOW HEAT PERMING ACTION 176
22.29 (a) HOW TO SHOW THE ACTION OF DIFFERENT COLD WAVE LOTION STRENGTHS 177
(b) HOW TO SHOW DEPILATORY ACTION (CHEMICAL) 178
22.30 HOW TO MAKE A "NEUTRALISER" FOR USE IN PREVIOUS EXERCISE) 178
22.31 HOW TO SHOW THE PRESSURE OF THE ATMOSPHERE 178
22.32 HOW TO SHOW HEAT TRAVELLING 178
22.33 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION 180
22.34 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE STATIC ELECTRICITY 182
22.35 HOW TO GENERATE ELECTRICITY FROM CHEMICALS 183
22.36 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE MAGNETS AND MAGNETISM 183
22.37 HOW TO GENERATE ELECTRICITY USING MAGNETS 184
22.38 HOW TO READ THE ELECTRICITY METER 187
22.39 HOW TO WORK OUT THE COST OF RUNNING ELECTRICAL APPARATUS 188
22.40 HOW TO WORK OUT THE PROPER SIZE OF A FUSE 188
22.41 HOW TO FIT A NEW FUSE 188
22.42 HOW TO FIND OUT THE POWER/WATTAGE OF A PIECE OF EQUIPMENT 189
22.43 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE A SHORT-CIRCUIT, OVERLOADING AND BLOWING THE FUSE 190
22.44 HOW TO WORK OUT IF WE ARE OVERLOADING THE CIRCUIT 190
22.45 HOW TO WIRE A PLUG 191
22.46 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE THE BIMETALLIC THERMOSTAT 192
22.47 HOW TO WIRE UP MORE THAN ONE CELL OR PIECE OF EQUIPMENT 192
22.48 HOW TO DEMONSTRATE THE ELECTROLYSIS OF WATER 192
22.49 HOW TO STUDY COLOURS AND COLOUR MIXING 194
5.0 HOW TO MAKE SOME HAIRDRESSING PREPARATIONS 196
Chapter 23.0. Data Section 203
CONTENTS 203
1.0 HOW TO REMOVE STAINS FROM FABRICS 203
2.0 HOW TO DEAL WITH SALON ANIMAL PESTS 205
3.0 SAFETY DATA 206
4.0 CONSTANTS AND CONVERSIONS 208
5.0 CALCULATIONS 209
6.0 Chemical Names 211
7.0 AMINO ACIDS IN THE HAIR 211
8.0 BYELAWS 211
Chapter 24.0. 
214 
TEST QUESTIONS IN HAIRDRESSING SCIENCE 214
Chapter 25.0. 
235 
Chapter 26.0. 
236 
OBJECTIVE TESTING — AN INTRODUCTION TO THE TECHNIQUE 236
BIBLIOGRAPHY — FOR THOSE WHO WANT TO READ MORE 238
References 239
Glossary and Index 240